lesstutrey Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 (edited) Well. My 2002 OBW is mildly out of camber in the rear. toe is fine and what not, i can't remember what the exact numbers were, but it was a bit out. The only option i've found is whiteline and it seems rather expensive, just wondering if there are any other options out there for fixing the rear camber (in the way of lateral arms or whatever). On a side note, could bad upper front sway bushings cause vibration in the steering wheel at speed? Seems to have come into play ever since i switched the front sway links to whitelines.. Edited July 21, 2015 by lesstutrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Oh yeah, i also remember reading something about someone using longer sway links in the front from like... a mustang rear or something.. but not sure if that was for a lego or forester.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 What model is it?? forester or outback? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Woops, though i put OBW in the topic.. it's a outback wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Do you have any pictures? I'm curious because the 02 OBW's I wanna say don't Abe camber adjustments in the rest because its the coil type. Are you meaning centering the tire in the wheel well? What lift are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 it's a lift from highguys, 2" strut top, basically the same as the SJR etc. Yeah actually you can add grade 8 bolts to adjust camber in the rear (if it's lifted, if it's not you can just use cambering bolts). I'm just a few degrees (like 1 or 2) off of ideal camber in the rear. I know that's not a big deal, just means i need to rotate tires and have them balanced every 7000 or so. But the annoying loud popping from the front is way more the issue, and i'm fairly sure that's my uper sway bushings, because it started when i replaced my front sway links with whiteline sway links. Want to order some whiteline top bushings.. but unsure on the size of the of stock anti-sway.. plus gota make sure it's not broken before i do that (gonna put it on the lift at the shop in a few minutes). I was just wondering if anyone had used like... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Trailing-Arm-Set-93-07-WRX-STi-Impreza-Forester-Outback-GD-GC-SPT-/252010309946?hash=item3aacfc293a&vxp=mtr these? Seems like they MAY be good enough for deal with 1-2 degrees of out of camber... but they're more for lowered vehicle. I am actually close to the guy that makes him.. but can't seem to get him to reply.. because i'm sure he could add threading on them to make them more... adjustable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 I ask because I built Subaru lift too lol. It's a 2bolt rear top hat right? 00+ outbacks don't have camber adjustment in the rear. It's a single bolt holding the lower section of the strut/coil on. No second bold like the front. As far as the popping noice/vibration it's not the sway bars end links. It's most likely your CV joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 You should rotate your tires every 5000 miles or 2 oil changes anyway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 2 oil changes for me would be every 14k miles.. but yeah i am aware i should rotate them as often as i was saying anyway. Remembered it was a grade 8 in the front instead of a camber bolt, yeah nothing in the rear. That's why i was looking into adjustable trailing arms, it actually would give some adjustment in that regard. Not a huge concern to me. The bigger this is the front noise... which i think i'm gonna figure out later on tonight if my friends will bounce on my car for me.I have ruled out CVs because it's not my CVs, i've checked, not my tie rods or ball joint or strut mount (well if it is the strut mount the spring ain't spining and it's not what is causing the noise). I can't really seem to find a good guide to diagnosising bad upper sway bushings though... best i can tell is in one video.. where guy seems to be complaining about same noises i'm getting. Gotta check on the rack to make sure it's not that, bushings in the control arms seem fine. Just never dealt with bad upper bushings before.. and know i could just disconnect the sway links and drive and see if it goes away as well as doing the "feel for the pop" thing i'm going to do.. it's a PITA to get sway links back on with a lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I've never gone for the high mileage oil change intervals whether they say it's ok or not. 3-4k tops in my opinion. But anyway, I'd disconnect the sway bar all together and see if the noise goes away. Then you know if it is or isn't the sway bar or endlinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) I'm using high mile synthetic designed for 7k oil changes with a 10k mile oil filter. My oil comes out cleaner than when i was using regular oil and changing every 3500 miles. But yeah.. gonna.. check out sway bar one way or the other... pretty sure if i get some ramps i can reconnect the links pretty easy. Previously had been jacking it up, putting it on jack stands, and then using my high lift jack wheel lifter attachment to pull the wheel up... which was better than what my friends were doing by having mutiple guys push the damn thing up while on a lift.. Edited July 24, 2015 by lesstutrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) it's my CV's... getting Heri's to replace them. Never should have replaced my OE ones (i thought tire rub was them, and knew they went out when you lifted, but they weren't bad yet, and my rear CVs are OE and perfectly fine, 38k miles later). Already replaced these half shafts 2-3 times per side up front, probably once or twice without need... time to upgrade to Heri since they actually make one designed for lift/older cars with more slop... only downside is the 120$ pricetag.. however.. i've spent well over 120$ on the half axles i've gotten so far. Thnk they were 75$ a pop... and that's 150 for drivers side, and 225$ on passenger side. Edited July 25, 2015 by lesstutrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Lol. I'm on the edge about the heri's I've killed one less than a week out of the box. Seen more fail too... I heard Subaru is making re manufactured axles now. Might be a much better option.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Well.. i'll see how the Heri's fare. They got rid of my tire rub issues on the passenger side. I dunno how they'll hold up, guess i'll find out. While i replaced them i found a ripped ball joint boot and feels like i may need a new inner tie rod on the other side.. Probably gonna replace both ball joints cause the other ones seems a bit worn out too... Kinda wondering this though: what brand of ball joints do you guys use? Thought about getting whitelines, but they only come in that kit for roll center/bump steer correction, though maybe i'm having bump steer issues if my steering wheel won't freaking stop wobbling. Pretty sure i replaced one ball joint last fall, and it may be starting to make noise too, not sure what brand was used, but that could be the inner tie rod i guess.. or the rack.. i hear the rack can develop issues too..Tire could be out of round i guess too... will have it balanced and checked for round when i do allignment after ball joint(s) and tie rod. BFG Rugged Terrain... a pretty meh tire, though it has some pluses over the KO (dry dirt, gravel, sand, wet roads, and highway in general), and some minuses too (snow, ice, slick mud). Think i'll get KO2 next time (seems like.. best of both of these tires) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 OEMs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 So annoyingly found out when i went to get core charges on the half axles (that might not even have been bad, again i might have been misdiagnosing a noise, new ball joints and sway links fixed that) had a lifetime warranty, so i could have had them replaced for free. To top that off i think the Heri's are the worst half axle on the market. Passenger side is clicking in corners, so the heri's are going out already. Back to the autozones.. and maybe try and bitch about labor and alignment costs should be reimbursed, before asking for my money back on the heri's. What a load of crap for a product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 (edited) Zombie thread coming back to life. Lifetime warranty half shafts still going good. Still haven't taken my heri HP into advance yet, but i will soon. I think it died from bad ball joint and bad end links. I had bad steering wobble on the trip i took it on. Inner boot blew out. No excuse for that, but if it had too much play in it from the wobble, i can kinda see how that would happen. Will replace when the lifetimes go out.Back on to rear camber. While out west this winter while doing switch backs i noticed i could hear my tire rolling up on edge. Obviously the positive camber from the lift has uh.. weakend the sidewalls.. that and the BFG Rugged Terrain was a waste of money tire... i mean.. does good offroad, and actually pretty well on road, but sucks in snow and ice. Worse the MVX4 in ice/snow. The lack of ANY siping is what i blame for that. Anyway, since i'll need to replace these tires soon now that the sidewalls are getting worn, i don't want to put a nice set of ko2 or something like that on it and kill them early because i wore out the sidewall again. So i need to fix my camber issues.Few options: whiteline kta124 set (i was not told i had toe issues, but it can fix them, about 350$ solution, not sure if it fits 2" lift as it's hard to get answers from whiteline.. pretty sure they do though based on Paul Eklund's advice) Another option: local fabricator sells just the control arm (what does camber, not toe) for 265, designed for a 2" lifted vehicle. Should fix my camber issues. Also noticed SJR now sells a 2" lift kit with "trailing arm shims." Already have the normal lift kit, wondering if the trailing arm shims might also fix the issue. Then there is some megan racing stuff that.. i also don't really have answers on their products either, in regards to raised vehicles. Wish i could find my last alignment sheet to see how many degrees out i was. Was close to green zone, but not close to center of green zone. Was told to make to sure to rotate tires at every oil change... which i do. What would you guys do for the rear camber? Don't feel like killing another 150 a tire set quicker than they should be.*EDIT* i had to slot the camber hole on my front struts to get it into the green zone and use grade 8 bolts. Kinda sucks since i need an alignment anytime i disconnect it. May go to firestone lifetime one for that... Also getting to end of life on the GR2's and springs i imagine, at 125k (gr2's installed at 80k) so will probably put king springs (can't decide if just stiffening or raising ones, as i know i'd need drop blocks to raise higher, but another 1.25" would be nice, and make bottoming out less probable, and thought maybe 3 1/4" lift with 2" drops might provide uh... more normal wear patterns since it would act like a 1.25" lift and i realize i'd need knew brake lines too, but that is easy stuff.) Edited June 15, 2016 by lesstutrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 the subaru suspention guru guy recamended megan racing lateral links they where 180 for the set on ebay for our lifted lego there going in next week there cheaper than replacing the bushings as there built in to the arms on this model and ours are shot aswell so it was cheaper than replacing the stock parts and adding a camber kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 I found a set of SPC control arms and a bushing for the lateral link that allows +/- 3 degrees of toe and camber, it's about 180$ shipped for a pair of them. I'm going to do that. Pretty sure i'm gonna get the SJR trailing arm bushings as well though. Thinking i might upgrade the rear swaybar and links too.. since i stiffened the front i should stiffen the rear. At 127k now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 (edited) Also gotta replace either right side spindle, caliper bracket.. or both. Starting with the caliper bracket as it's much easier. The spindle seems stripped, so not sure if that's why i keep having brake issues, or i need a rebuild bracket (the bottom pin was very seized and i cleaned it up, but still getting noise on that brake (as in it's uh... sticking or something. My spindle may just be jacked up though... either way the bracket could probably used to be replaced as the slide area is very pitted and i couldn't get it smooth without.. well.. a bunch of grinding, and for 26$ it's kinda easier to just replace. Edited July 3, 2016 by lesstutrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Huh.. noticed the uh caliper bracket on my left side is a replacement for the right side... my right side is oem... so guess i'm ordering a left and swapping them... though apparently symmetrical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 I'm now offering any height custom lift you desire, 1/4" increments, front and rear can be different heights, 1/4"-2" will be in solid aluminum 2" and above in steel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 (edited) I'm now offering any height custom lift you desire, 1/4" increments, front and rear can be different heights, 1/4"-2" will be in solid aluminum 2" and above in steel So billet spacers for less than 2, steel tubing to over 2" Well, i already got the 2" lift. I'm just trying to figure out how the trailing arm shims works. I was thinking i'd get those as well as SPC control arms that fix toe/camber +/-3 degree (i mean... might as well get things back as close as possible to stock for best handling) and your shims fix a problem thta megan/whiteline/spc don't address. Can you send me a picture of what the trailing arm shims look like installed? I'm just not sure how they go in/where they go in and would like to know that before ordering. I'm looking at the picture of them (well, i'm assuming it's those pieces as the are not pictured in the 2" kit without it) but not sure how they get installed. Edited July 10, 2016 by lesstutrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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