Swapped out the HLA's for SLA's...still got the Tick

[wtdash]

1996 Legacy w/the EJ22 128K. Bought the car w/the Tick on the driver's side. 

 

 

 

It has the Roller Rockers w/the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. Car is 1/96 build date and I have pics.

 

Instead of just fixing the HLA's I swapped in an extra set w/the screw lash  adjustable (SLA) rocker assembly. I read on here that the '95-'96 had the rollers and HLA and I could use the SLA. The '97+ have the SLA's.

 

I swapped the assemblies, set the intake/exhaust clearance, Changed the oil and it's still noisy. I know the HLA's can take a bit to quiet down, but the SLA should 'just work', correct?

 

I did NOT relieve the tension on the driver's side valves before removing/installing the rocker assembly, but did follow the steps to set the clearance. EDIT: I used the wrong damn arrow. It's the DRIVER'S SIDE not the Passenger side Cam sprocket arrow. Edit #2: Doesn't matter, they're the same, but it still needed to be adjusted.

 

Should I recheck my clearance or do I have something more expensive going on? Car seems to drive fine, idles normally, and no CEL or stored codes.

 

Edit - 8-7-2015: Noticed that I'm getting a cloud of blue smoke on 1st startup. As noted, that's leading me towards Valve Guides....unfortunately. So  I fix the existing one,  install the extra head, or do some sort of engine swap. Leaning towards a 2.5 swap, as I've dealt w/turbo swaps and those are just a lot of work to get the same power as a 2.5 (unless I do something fancy w/the EM).

 

Thanks

Edited August 8, 2015 by wtdash

[Fairtax4me]

Double check the lash adjustment. Make sure the cylinder is at TDC when you're doing the adjustment.

 

Try to narrow down which end of the head the noise is coming from (front/rear, top/bottom) so you can focus on two valves instead of all eight on the head.

Maybe check the camshaft lobes for damage.

[wtdash]

For reference:

 

SOHC

 

Remove small plastic timing belt cover under the A/C compressor on the Driver's side of the engine (next to the battery). It will expose the camshaft sprocket.

 

Intake valve clearance = 0.007" to 0.009"

Exhaust valve clearance = 0.009" to 0.011"

 

***Perform on a cold engine***

 

Firing order is 1,3,2,4

 

Camshaft sprocket on bank side 2 and 4 (drivers side facing engine) has an arrow on it. At TDC for piston #1 its at 12 o'clock. Check valve clearances for #1. 

 

Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 3 o'clock. Check clearances on #3 since its at TDC 

 

Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 6 o'clock. Check clearances on #2 since its at TDC 

 

Then turn crankshaft 180 deg to attain 90 deg. on the camshaft sprocket. Arrow on camshaft sprocket should be facing 9 o'clock. Check clearances on #4 since its at TDC

 

12:00 = Cylinder #1

03:00 = Cylinder #3

06:00 = Cylinder #2

09:00 = Cylinder #4

Edited July 27, 2015 by wtdash

[wtdash]

Re-did the valve adjustment (correctly this time - used the Pass. side Cam sprocket arrow for reference incorrectly the 1st time)....and still LOUD. I've got a T-Belt job in the near future and will likely replace the Cam seals, too. I'll look again for damage to the cams.

 

Edit: It looks like either cam sprocket can be uses as their arrows are the same?

 

 

Thanks

Edited July 27, 2015 by wtdash

[Fairtax4me]

Yes, either can be used for position reference.

Arrows are straight up at TDC to number 1. Every 90° clockwise rotation of the cam sprockets indicates TDC for the next cylinder in the firing order.

[pstep]

If the idle is good and no driveability problems are present the noise could be from the sla's they are always more noisy have you compared the noise to another sla engine the hydraulic dampen the sound alot so before going some where else also check the exhaust manifold to make sure that sealed tight

[1 Lucky Texan]

any chance you can post a link to a recording? one of the gurus here might be able to tell something from it.

 

is it 'regular' and changes with rpm? is it 'quick' like every revolution or more like every 2nd? Maybe watch the timing gear run with the covers off. Belt might be flopping around?

Edited July 28, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[wtdash]

 

It almost sounds like it's more toward the middle of the engine - not out toward the valves. Even now thinking it could be T-belt-related.

 

Thanks

[Fairtax4me]

Sounds a little deeper than valves. Could just be the way the phone records though. Frequency sounds right for lifter tick.

 

The timing belt tensioner on the 96 should be the old two piece that doesn't really ever go bad. You might be able to look in from the side cover and see if the pulley is flopping around. If that's still on its original belt it could be the cogged idler smacking around.

 

Beyond that... rod knock, wrist pin maybe?

Edited July 28, 2015 by Fairtax4me

[wtdash]

+ Thanks for the info...I may just throw my extra 2.2 in there if the Tbelt and its components look OK.

 

 

Follow-up 8/2/15:

Did the T-belt, pulleys, Tstat and WP. No difference in noise level.

 

Maybe do an UOA w/Blackstone @ the next oil change in 4K miles to see if there's cause for concern.

 

It does seem louder AFTER it's warmed up.

 

Thanks

 

Edit: I pulled this engine, put in a '90 EJ22e with 22T heads, turbo'd it and then sold it. 

 

I then reinstalled this '96 L engine in another '96 Legacy OB (bought w/a dead EJ25D) I 'flipped' in 2017.

 

But I reused the '90 dual-port EJ22e heads (and used my own EGR-fix). I had the heads resurfaced and pressure tested and they were good to go.

 

I DID notice (hint) that the HLA's were kinda/sorta stuck so I cleaned/re-oiled them all before installing.  When I put the engine in the car and started it up? Yep. same noise. :-( I was like dang-nab-it, it's rod-knock.

 

But, in a last ditch effort, I knew from a previous experience that I was able to REV the engine - after it had warmed-up - to Redline multiple times and it freed-up any sticking HLA's. It worked again as the noise was GONE and it actually ran great! In fact, I swear these '90-'94 heads are the best for power of the 2.2's.....(but I've never owned/driven a '99+ EJ222). Of course, w/the 4.44 FD ratio of the OB that helps.

 

So, my best guess is that the original 2.2 had stuck HLA's, too. When I swapped out the HLA for SLA, it must've been the other side making the noise? Also, the engine had a stuck piston oil ring (i had all new rings installed), which likely was the cause of the smoke on startup....so this engine had probably seen few and far between oil changes.

 

Tangent> The OB was sold to a kid and it was his first car. Two days after he bought it, it was stolen...w/all the paperwork. His dad came up about a month later and the Police had found the car, and returned it to the kid. The dad sought me out and we did a 'release of interest' etc. so he could get it titled in his name. Apparently it had been driven by a woman, who was living in it....and it was full of loot - phones, laptops, etc. They needed to get the ignition fixed, but was otherwise still functional.

Edited October 31, 2017 by wtdash