DSwanson1 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 So it has been a while guys and I thought I would give a little update. Got the tranny serviced and guys at the shop said that my tranny was overfilled and that was what was causing the hard and late shifting. Wierd though because I always got a low reading from the dipstick and adding tranny fluid caused it to shift better. Anyway they did a service on it and it seems to be doing better. occasional slightly hard shift and the rare 4250 rpm 1st gear shift but a lot better than it was. I also did an oil change and even a flush just to see if it helped. Ran some seafoam through it prior to that and the engine sounded incredible once I got it buttoned up. No more ticking! ...until I started her the next day. Now I get intermittent ticking, still from the passenger side, and it goes away after the engine has warmed up. Wonder if it has anything to do with the mild oil leak coming from the passenger side valve cover. Bad gasket maybe? nother project to plan for the future. Also pulled the codes from it the other day and unless I am mistaken I have 11, 21, 31, and 42 codes. Still trying to figure that one out. Been noticing issue with starting almost ever day now. first time in the day it starts and immediately dies around 2 times before it will respond to the gas pedal. Then I keep it running for about 10 seconds and it will stay running. also at the end of the day I drive it home to pick up my boys from their Nana's and after I get them loaded up and go to start it I have to hold the ignition for about 7 or 8 seconds before it will catch. Also noticed some sputter and dip in the rpms at idle. Wondering if any of this has to do with the phantom vacuum line that I can seem to have anyone identify for me. My first soob is turning out to be quite the project 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Especially if you are starting with a cat that was neglected, there is a bit of work to get it all back working properly. But then it should be good for a while. I've gone through a few cycles where I had to fix one thing then another, etc. But there have been long runs of almost nothing going wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Have spark pluds or plug wires been done recently? Sometimes that can attribute to bad starting. Has your fuel filter been changed? That could also be a factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Slow starting could be corroded battery cables/ends or a weak starter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 My first soob is turning out to be quite the project haha yep, sometimes these cars need a little love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 sometimes that ticking sound could be an exhaust leak. Especially when it goes away after a few minutes of warm up. It can sound like ticking lifters. What year model and miles? have you checked for vacuum leaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSwanson1 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 The year is 1989. It could be an exhaust leak but not sure.Just had to get it smogged and it failed due to high hc but the tech said that could be a result of it during for the passed month. I think the ticking is the valve lash being off but if I'm gonna pull off the valve cover to make the adjustments I am gonna wait until I can afford the gasket and an oil change. The codes seem to be from the tps crankcase sensor and temp sensor. Looked up the tps online and about lost it for how much they cost. I can understand 300 bucks for a race quality sensor but not for a replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 From what I see mentioned above, thus is an EA82 engine? If so, there are no adjustments for the valve lash. They are automatic hydraulic. Sometimes one or 2 will get sticky or an air bubble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSwanson1 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Yes it's an ea82t. So if they are automated would pulling out the lash adjusters and priming them help. I'm trying to get rid of the tick completely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSwanson1 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Funny thing just happened.tried to clear the codes and the ticking went away. First time I haven't heard ticking in weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSwanson1 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Funny thing just happened.tried to clear the codes and the ticking went away. First time I haven't heard ticking in weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I've resealed a few EA82s. Some have been partially disassembled for years, so no oil to speak of in the adjusters. Just primed the oil pump with a drill before installing the timing belts. The ticking goes away after a while, and a good number of drive cycles. On the way out, it comes and goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rae houghton Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Dave T ...you wrote you "primed the oil pump with a drill before putting in timing belts" what does that mean.....primed with a drill? As for ticking...my Subaru I have had for 6 years. It has been ticking for six years. On and off....sometimes very loud. I would like to get rid of that sound. People actually look at my car if it is stationary and ticking...it is so noticeable. My other parts car (before I took some parts out) also ticked. I was told by a subuaru mechanic that this is a characteristic that is common in the older subarus....and I shouldn't worry about it. But my wife and I do, despite the placating verbal offer of advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhorse001 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Ea subarus tick because the lifters need a constant strong supply of oil. #1 culprit of lifter tick is the oil pump seal. When it gets old, it can allow air to be sucked into the pump, foaming the oil. It makes sense that the tick will sometimes go away after warmup, because heat swells the seal stopping the air. With the turbo, you also have 2 oil lines going to the turbocharger. the return line can crack causing more air in the system. Seafoam is great to clean the oil, and fuel systems, glad to see you took that step. For the hard start/idle issue, you REALLY need to find where that open vacuum line goes. There should be a diagram under the hood somewhere. Beyond that, a Haynes repair manual has good pictures, and diagrams in it. Best $20 you'll spend on your Subie. If it still has a starting issue afte fixing the vacuum we can help with that. The delayed start, thats a common issue too. You need to have a relay installed to get more power to the starter. Search "starter relay", that will give you several how to threads to get you pointed in the righ direction. Keep us informed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 I have an adapter that goes from a he drive to square socket drive. Check it in a drill. Put a 12mm socket on it. Use it to spin the oil pump until you feel it load up. Note: this is done before installing the long timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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