abarbera Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 I'm 19 and trying and trying to fix my old gl-10. I'm am new to the forum and need some help. My wagon sat for about ten years outside and ran perfect when it was parked. Started up ran perfectly still, even with the old gas, pulled out in the street to wash and when I started back up it ran like crap. Acting like it had an intermittent cylinder. Real stuttery and idled on the verge of dying. So I checked to see if had spark air and fuel, spark and air was fine so we turns to fuel. Two injectors seemed like they weren't working and got change, change fuel pump and filter and of course the fuel. And it still is running poor. When driving the pedal will be to the floor and the car with speed up and all of a sudden fall on its face. Also will only reach about 40 mph. I have no idea how to fix it and need help. Thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 I'd check for vacuum leaks. Some seafoam might help too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) A malfunctioning AFM and/or an exhaust leak before the turbo can produce this problem. Another thing could be a restricted exhaust as in a clogged CAt or a baffle inside the muffler is flopping around. Edited July 30, 2015 by john in KY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I'm going out on a limb here and say your turbo is shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 don't despair, there is quite a few things that could be the cause. My immediate guess is same as mine was after sitting for years you get gas, you get pressure, but is it enough. My fuel pump was shot and would not keep pressure up just as it was really needed. I ran a T piece in after the fuel filter. The mecjhanical fuel oil pressure gauge was taped to screen, gave the required 36 psi reading at idle and all the while stationary revvingup and down the range, then, out on street just as get going, engine died in the RRRR's and the fuel pressure dropped to 10 psi and would only idel, rev again on the spot You may wanna empty old fuel, tank could be barnacle clad inside after all that time. Can inspect the insides via the sender unit on tank top. If a new pump goes in, best to have a clean ank and fresh fuel, new fuel filter for long life, and no warranty if not cleaned. Another issue could be if the fuel pressure regualtor at the end of the fuel rail with a vac can on it - might be shot too, letting all the pressure off ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 What jono wrote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarbera Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 i just read the check engine codes and it is giving me a: coolent temperature sensor or circuit. I know this is why my motor is running bad but any suggestions to fix the check engine light as well? Thanks to everyone that has be helping out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Ct failure can do that. Once you replace it, the CEL should go out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Look for mouse nests in the intake, below the air filter. Look for mouse nests between the radiators. Look for mouse nests in the heater air intake, but that does not affect engine performance. Look for mouse nests in the exhaust pipe and muffler. If there is a loud hissing sound coming from the engine, just before it falls flat on it's face, then some hose clamps are lose between the turbo and the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Just because you have spark doesn't mean it's good. You could have arcing inside the distributor cap, high resistance on a plug wire or fouled plugs. You can inspect the inside of the cap for tracing, little lines between any of the contacts, test the wires, acceptable is 1000 ohms per foot and clean or replace the plugs if they look like crap. A vacuum leak on any of the intake lines behind the MAF on a turbo car will give you grief as well. As mentioned, the coolant sensor will do this as well. The ECU thinks it's -30 degrees and starts dumping fuel in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarbera Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Ive tried looking for any vacuum leak before the turbo or otherwise and cant seem to find any. Ran some premium gas through it and tried wash and crud out. After putting in the new fuel pump it is making excessive noise; just a loud whine you can here from inside the car. Took it out for a drive yesterday and it seemed a lot more jerky. one second it will act like it is running on all cylinders and the turbo is kicking in and the next it drops to 200 rpms and is fighting not to die. maybe I am looking in the wrong place for leaks or something. Any other input that might help? thanks everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Give me your phone or email and some weekday night, I can drop by and see if it anything obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarbera Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Give me your phone or email and some weekday night, I can drop by and see if it anything obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abarbera Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 My email is barberaxthelma@yahoo.come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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