Repeating Problem! Shift Release broke!

[Sharon22]

Directly above my brake pedal is a spring-button that's built to continuously touch the un-depressed brake pedal. The spring-button is springy and exerts constant pressure on the brake pedal while the pedal is UP. For example, when nobody is in the car, the brake pedal is UP, and therefore pressing against that spring-button.

 

Now when I "step on the brakes" (i.e. "push down on the brake pedal"), that pushes the pedal AWAY from that spring-button, causing that spring button to fully extend (because, obviously, it is "springy").

 

I believe that "spring-button" is called different things, because it does all kinds of things -- for example, when you depress the brake pedal and that spring fully extends, it causes the rear Brake Lights to come on.

 

ALSO (now, I'm getting to my point) the other thing it does (when the spring-button extends while depressing the brake pedal) is RELEASE the "shift lock" so I can move my shifter out of park.

 

Ever noticed how you can NOT move the shifter out of park UNLESS you depress the brake pedal? Well, it's because of that spring-button thingy.

 

Here's my problem (whew.... finally! ;-)  when I depress my brake pedal, the spring-button extends, but does NOT release my shifter out of park! 

 

At first, I thought it was something "icky-sticky" spilled in my shifter itself, so I cleaned it. When that didn't work, I went to Napa and bought a NEW "spring-button thingy" (that I spent the first part of this post describing)... and VOILA everything was fixed!

 

PROBLEM: after a few weeks, the problem returned! So I bought another spring-button thingy! and VOILA! fixed!....

 

Until a few weeks later.

 

Anyway, this cycled has repeated 7 (SEVEN!) times! I have tried NAPA brand spring-button thingies, as well as 2 (TWO) brand-new factory Subaru switch thingies (after I finish typing, I'm going to try and upload a picture of this thingamabob.).

 

And now, today, I wave the white flag. I am STUCK in park once again.

 

So, it's obviously NOT that thingamabob springy-thingy, and it's NOT any gunk/grime in my shifter.

 

What else could it be?

 

My mechanic said he doesn't like diagnosing electrical problems and I'm supposed to take my car and drop it off on the other side of town (the bad side of town) and leave it all day while they charge me $80.00 per hour to diagnose this problem  :-)

 

Would anyone be so kind as to give me some ideas so I can try and fix it myself?

 

Thank you in advance!!

p.s. Here is a photo of what that thingy-spring-a-ma-bob switch that presses on my brake pedal looks like:

 

[ocei77]

 Year and model of car?

Try adjusting the switch, it should not be in constant contact with the pedal,

There should be a gap. Minimal, but a gap.

 

O.

[john in KY]

If you have an automatic, remove the cover around the shifter. Just to the left of the shifter you will see the mechanism that locks/unlocks the shifter. When I had this problem, I just disabled that solenoid. Also there should be a plug in the upper right corner of the shifter cover. You can remove it, insert a screwdriver or whatever and release the lock. Stop wasting money on new brake light switches. 

[Fairtax4me]

I would also probably guess the switch is misadjusted.

 

The pedal is only supposed to press the switch just far enough to open the contacts for the brake lights, and close the contacts for the cruise control. Adjustment is best done with a multimeter to check when the cruise contact closes.

[Sharon22]

 Year and model of car?

Try adjusting the switch, it should not be in constant contact with the pedal,

There should be a gap. Minimal, but a gap.

 

O.

93 Subaru Impreza.

Regarding the switch, no it *must* have full contact/tension to the brakes. When the brake pedal is fully up (like, when the car is parked with nobody in it), the springy switch is pushed all the way in, it's supposed to be that way). When you depress the brake pedal (your foot moves the brake pedal down maybe 1 or 2 inches), the springy-switch-pin-whatever-you-call-it springs out (it extends fully, about 1/4 inch). That's how it's supposed to work.

 

In fact, today, when I stepped on the brake pedal and couldn't move my shifter, I got outta the car and onto my hands and knees in the parking lot, and used my hand to depress the brake pedal so it was a couple inches completely *away* from the spring pin, and I visually saw the pin fully extended. I pushed the pin in and out several times with my fingers (manually) and, still, my shifter wouldn't release. One would say with absolute certainty: "Your push-pin-thingamabob is broken -- go buy a new one!" Except, as I've described, I'm on my 7th one in 6 months.

 

But, thank you for trying to help.

[Sharon22]

If you have an automatic, remove the cover around the shifter. Just to the left of the shifter you will see the mechanism that locks/unlocks the shifter. When I had this problem, I just disabled that solenoid. Also there should be a plug in the upper right corner of the shifter cover. You can remove it, insert a screwdriver or whatever and release the lock. Stop wasting money on new brake light switches. 

haha --yes I know -- in fact, I now carry a screwdriver in my glovebox to "unlock" my shifter.

 

HOWEVER -- (maybe you, or someone could answer this) -- I do NOT mind the concept of "aw heck with it, I'll just "jimmyrig it," EXCEPT..... since it is an "electrical" issue, shouldn't I be worried about a SHORT somewhere? In other words, I have no problem jimmyrigging things. But, if that springy-thingy is NOT defective, that means somewhere else along the electrical "chain-of-command" something is haywire. Couldn't that start a fire? (That's why I want to get to the root of the problem).

[Sharon22]

I would also probably guess the switch is misadjusted.

 

The pedal is only supposed to press the switch just far enough to open the contacts for the brake lights, and close the contacts for the cruise control. Adjustment is best done with a multimeter to check when the cruise contact closes.

Well, no, here's why I disagree: I manually pushed the brake pedal completely outta the way. In other words, "take the brake pedal outta the equation." So I'm down there on my hands and knees and with my *Fingers* I am pushing the springy-pin-thingy in and out, in and out, in and out. Jabbing it, pulling it, poking it, pushing the pin all the way in, out, etc., (you get the idea). And still, my shifter won't release. Then after I shut my car off, walk around it a few times cursing, get back in my car, all is well again and everything works normally. Again, all signs point to a faulty push-springy-pin, and, like I said, since they're cheap (7 bucks for the cheap Napa ones, and 20 for the Subaru Brass Quality ones), I just kept replacing them. And, logically, *all seven* of them cannot be faulty! So I'm trying to figure out what else could be wrong. I just don't know all the devices there are in the "chain of command" that's between the brake light switch and the shift lock...

[Fairtax4me]

My point is that by fully depressing the switch all the way the switch can be damaged internally, causing the repeat failure. If the switch is adjusted properly the button is only depressed just far enough to open the contacts for the brake circuit, not forced all the way to the end of its range of movement.

 

 

Fuses protect the switch from over-load damage. If there were a short the fuse would blow. Except if someone replaced a blown fuse with one of a higher amp rating.

[sirtokesalot]

id just take the center console apart and remove the shift lock so it can shift without holding the brakes.

[lstevens76]

If that is the switch I am thinking about it also controls your brake lights, so the big question is are your brake lights working?  If they are working I wouldn't guarantee the problem is that switch.  Have you tested the safety switch on the transmission?

[johnceggleston]

 

If that is the switch I am thinking about it also controls your brake

lights, so the big question is are your brake lights working?

If they are working I wouldn't guarantee the problem is that switch.

 this.

if the brake lights work,

i can 100% guarantee, SEVEN times over

it is not the brake pedal switch.

 

 

Have you tested the safety switch on the transmission?

the shift inhibitor is a fairly common fail point.

but it usually causes a ''no start'' problem.

 

if you listen closely,

you should be able to hear the relay activate when you press the shifter button.

 

i would look further down the line ,

closer to the shift lock solenoid.

 

and no,

i cannot explain why replacing the 7 new brake switches made it work for a while.

 

so let me understand.

the engine will start,

but you cannot shift out of park?

 

i would open the console and put a rubber and on the shift lock ,

locking it open.

this will keep you driving.

be sure to always set the hand brake if you do this.

 

 

does everything else work when you cannot shift ouit of park?

horn?

cruise?

cigarette lighter?

Edited August 2, 2015 by johnceggleston

[Sharon22]

My point is that by fully depressing the switch all the way the switch can be damaged internally, causing the repeat failure. If the switch is adjusted properly the button is only depressed just far enough to open the contacts for the brake circuit, not forced all the way to the end of its range of movement.

 

 

Fuses protect the switch from over-load damage. If there were a short the fuse would blow. Except if someone replaced a blown fuse with one of a higher amp rating.

Thank you for clarifying. I understand you're saying that if a mechanic just "slops it into it's spot" and the brake pedal jams that spring switch all the way in each time the brake pedal returns to the "up" position, that's going to wear it out? I can imagine that, and I can picture that happening in my mind, and I think that is totally possible. I'm thinking, though, that the fly in the ointment is that I am up to my 7th one. But, I agree with you, and thank you for clarifying. 

 

And regarding what you said about a short, the kind of "short" I worry about is where something is "partially secure" and "gets HOT" where wires aren't touching tightly, and a fire from that. LIke the other week when my front automatic window wouldn't work, and the mechanic said that the connection was loose and the insulation on the wire was slowly melting away.

 

THAT scares me... and that is what I am worried about with this stupid brake stop light springy switch thing -- that if I DON'T figure out exactly what is wrong, then I got wires melting away somewhere hidden...

Edited August 2, 2015 by Sharon22

[Sharon22]

id just take the center console apart and remove the shift lock so it can shift without holding the brakes.

If I was 100% CERTAIN that I don't have wires smouldering away somewhere with a loose connection, I would take your advice in a HEARTBEAT. Unfortunately, though, I'm a cheapskate with OCD. :-)

[Sharon22]

"if the brake lights work,

i can 100% guarantee, SEVEN times over

it is not the brake pedal switch."

 

--Yes that is a good idea. I will check that today, within the next couple hours.

 

"the shift inhibitor is a fairly common fail point.

but it usually causes a ''no start'' problem. if you listen closely,

you should be able to hear the relay activate when you press the shifter button."

 

-- Okay I'll do that, too. But where should I "point my ear" when I'm trying to listen? I'm not totally familiar with the engine layout -- do I want to listen "towards the front of my car?" Or do I want to listen straight down, towards axels and stuff?

 

"i would look further down the line ,

closer to the shift lock solenoid."

 

Where would that "shift lock solenoid" be? Is that the thing under my shifter underneath the plastic console covers?

 

"so let me understand.

the engine will start,

but you cannot shift out of park?"

 

YES that is correct. If I'm in a hurry I stick the screwdriver in the emergency hole. If I'm not in a hurry, I usually do a bunch of voodoo -- e.g. tamping on the brake pedal, turning my car on and off, getting out and kicking a tire, etc., then usually the 10th try, the shifter will unlock. Actually, when it's working, I can hear the "activate - metallic clank relay sound" when I step on the brake (my car's noisy). Conversely, when I step on the brake and hear NOTHING, then I know the damn thing didn't release my shifter :-)

 

"does everything else work when you cannot shift ouit of park?

horn?cruise? cigarette lighter?"

 

HMMMmmmm! Well, ACTUALLY, the VERY FIRST TIME this happened about 3 years ago, SEVERAL things didn't work -- it was weird -- the blower wouldn't work, and a couple other things (maybe the horn? I cannot remember!) did NOT work. However, the SECOND that I replaced the springy-thingamajig-switchy-thing, EVERYTHING worked perfectly! Problem Solved!!! (Until a few months later).

[johnceggleston]

this is beginning to sound like a lose wire problem.

an intermittent loose wore problem.

 

so i would follow the wiring under the dash back from the ''brake pedal switch'' and see where is goes.

or, the next time it will not shift,

wiggle the harness under the dash and see what happens.

the ''wiggling'' during the replacement of the switch may have been the fix,

not the switch itself.

 

i had the same problem and could not solve it.

so i ''tied down'' the ''lock '' mechanism in the console.

by the time the rubber band rotted off the lock solenoid,

my problem never came back.

 

never did figure it out.

but my horn would not work when the shifter did not work.

i couldn't tell about the cruise control.

but they are both in the column,

and may be powered the same way,

not sure.

Edited August 5, 2015 by johnceggleston