Cannot change between FM1, FM2, and FM3

[TheGoodShepherd]

 

2014 Forester

 

It would seem this is Type B audio set.

 

In a PDF manual, I've read I'm supposed to switch between FM1, FM2, and FM3 by pressing the "FM" button. This does not happen. What does happen is that I switch from FM2 to FM-AS to "ACQUIRING" as the radio attempts to connect to the HD channel, which it eventually reports as unavailable.

 

Is my radio broken, or is there something else I should be looking at?

 

In my physical manual, I've also read that I'm supposed to switch between FM1, FM2, and FM-AS. Again, not what actually happens. I'm more than a little confused. I don't know if the radio has been set up for services we don't have, was set up improperly, or is simply broken. We can't seem to figure the PTY selection mode. We're finding the manual of little help: "Press the 'PTY' button to change the PTY slection mode," but never an explanation of what the PTY mode is, or how it relates to radio programming. It seems the audio section features a bit of mystery.

 

[A couple hours later]

 

I have no idea why, but I did manage to get it to cycle properly: FM1 to FM2 to FM-AS. I had started pressing buttons just to find out what would happen, when I noticed "FM1" where it hadn't been since we bought the car. I was able to program 12 stations, six under FM1 and six under FM2, plus whatever you get when you let SCAN run for a while on FM-AS.

 

I cycled the PTY modes a bit, and saw they relate to various genres. If I understand correctly, stations must be broadcasting some form of format identifier, with which properly configured radios can locate stations by format, not frequency. Using the Seek switches finds the appropriate stations for each format type.

 

So I could still use a bit of guidance. At least I have enough sense to play with it in the driveway!

Edited August 3, 2015 by TheGoodShepherd

[john in KY]

Wish I could help but why not go to the local dealer and have how to operate the radio shown to you? 

I did goggle PDY but the explanation left me confused.

Edited August 3, 2015 by john in KY

[gbhrps]

thegoodshepherd,

 

I've messed with electronics and autos for over 45 years and I detect in your post a possible cause for your problem, and a fix. You give no clue as to year and model Subie (this is a MUST if you want some help in future, because it narrows down what the issue can be) this is from, but I suspect its a common issue with electric switches for door locks, power windows, tv remotes, etc.

 

It says to me that perhaps the switch itself may be dirty, and just needs its contacts cleaned up, so that it scrolls through its sequence properly, rather than stalling at its first step in the sequence.

 

If it were my car, I'd pull the center dash surround (around the vents and the radio/HVAC controls). Behind it will be the screws that need removal for the radio (usually just two or four) and then pull the radio unit as far out of its recess as its wiring will allow. Reach in behind and disconnect its two or three wiring harnesses, and remove it from the car.

 

On the work bench either unclip the front face plate , or unscrew it from the radio, after pulling the two round knobs first. (They may just stay in place and the face plate comes off with them still in place.)

 

You may well find the the face plate will be able to be separated from a printed circuit board (there will be a ribbon cable from the circuit board back to the main radio chassis). It should give you enough room to see the individual button switches behind each large plastic switch on the faceplate.

 

Choose the button switch for the large switch plate that's not switching correctly, and spray electrical contact spray cleaner into the button switch, and cycle the switch 10 or twenty times. Repeat and then give the switch 10 minutes for the fluid to evaporate before you connect the wiring harnesses to the radio (if you removed them), turn on the key and check the switch.

 

I've found 9 out of 10 times that I can fix a switch in this manner.

 

Of course, there may be a cold solder joint on the circuit board, or a fritzed capacitor or resister that is the cause and the switch may be fine, but its a good place to start. Take it slow, and you should find its an easy procedure if you look and think first. Good Luck!