Subimp91 Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Hey. Having some problems with my Impreza gt 1997. Ej20 turbo. The car was running fine, Drove it home like normal one night and parked it. The next day It was running on 3 sylinders. So then i started looking for failures.( sorry about my English) I have tryed everything i think. I dont know to number the sylinders on boxer engines. But its the sylinder at the rear left that wont run. When i pull of the spark lead there is no change. I have changed spark plugs, spark leads. Coil, deliverd the injector for testing. Came back fine. Swapped the injector with one from the other sylinder. No change. Tested the compression 8kg-80 psi i think:P. Took out the fuel pump. filter/bag looks like new, Changed fuel filter. took out the injector again.filter looks like new/clean. Engine were rebuildt in january. Sylinders were fine!. cams looked brand new, New multilayer steel gaskets. maskined the heads. Please help me, dont know what else to try! workshop prices in norway are unbelivable. 60 min is like 180 usd..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 compression may be a little low - how does that cyl's pressure compare to the others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Yes, compression seems to be Low. How about the Valves? ... Are there any noise? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 My research says 1kg = 14 lbs psi. So, 8kgs = 112 lbs psi of compression. Under boost, that's low. Without boost, that's fairly high. What were you doing JUST before you parked it? Did you let it cool down for a couple of minutes before turning the engine off? (As should be done with ALL turbo engines, every time you drive the car where the turbo kicks in.) See if you can get a leak down test of that cylinder: if it's bad, I'd be looking at a problem with the rings (or piston) in that cylinder. You have an engine that never made it to the USA. Our versions didn't come until 2002 and did have some differences. Even with a known good injector, are you sure that cylinder is getting fuel? (Your English is just fine. I've seen many native "English/American" speakers who don't communicate nearly as well as you do!) Emily 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) Going to do another compression test to morrow. Going to do a test at the other sylinders as well. Not sure if i understood you right, Compression Under boost??? how can i do that test?? What i have used is the standard tool. That you just press into the sparkplugg and have someone to crank the engine a few secounds. When i take out the spark plug, On the sylinder that dont run. it smells of gass, But its not wet. Im also going to take out the injector to morrow and the crank the enegine to see if there is fuel spurts out. I also notised that one of the injectors may be damaged. but not sure it it makes any difference. At top of the injector there is a Tap, that goes into the bracket that holds the injector in place. But that injector is now on one of the sylinders that run. If you look at the grey injector, you can see that Tap/ thing stikking out at the top of the injector. This is missing on one of mine. The injector that have been damaged/missing the tap, Was the one on the sylinder not running. Not sure if it makes a difference Thanks for the Reply`s Edited August 6, 2015 by Subimp91 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 No, I was just commenting on the conversion of kgs to psi on your compression test. Of course you can't do a compression test under boost. I think the compression numbers sound good. I did suggest a leak down test which would tell us if you have a problem with the rings or piston: not uncommon with these engines. But I think you're on to something with the injectors. Honestly, I would head over to NASIOC.com to check more on this engine. They will know more about this engine. Emily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Even for a turbo engine that compression seems too low to me. Retest with all 4 spark plugs removed. Unplug the injectors and the coil. Throttle should be wide open during cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aluxes Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Is that "bad" cylinder even getting spark? Check you wiring going into the coil. Once mine had a short, running on two cylinders, thought it was bad coil and replaced but still didnt work. Checked the wiring and there was a short. Fixed it and its been fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 no oil on the boot/plug in that cyl? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Is that "bad" cylinder even getting spark? Check you wiring going into the coil. Once mine had a short, running on two cylinders, thought it was bad coil and replaced but still didnt work. Checked the wiring and there was a short. Fixed it and its been fine. Im pretty sure that its getting spark, When i pull of the pluglead sparks fly out of the coil. When you check the wiring to the coil, Did you just use a multimeter and messure the risistance? Or use the Beep thing that tells if the wire have connection? no oil on the boot/plug in that cyl? Nope. looks good, Engine Havent been smoking, or using any oil/ water. Wont be able to test the compression to day, because i need a hand to do that test. I might be able to do it in the weekend. I will come bake with the numbers later Edited August 7, 2015 by Subimp91 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 The compression is good, removed the injector and turned the ignision on. the injector is getting fuel. installed it again and now the engine wont start at all. its like there is no ignision now. It might be some kind of anit theft system? there is also a warninglight in the dash, but i dont have the book for the car, and everything online is japanese. Anyone know that this sign might be?? its not the handbreak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Try to remove the Positive Terminal from the Battery, then discharge the remain energy on the system by pressing the brake pedal once. Let the Battery disconnected for ~ twenty minutes, then reconnect the Battery and report back if that solves the issue. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Try to remove the Positive Terminal from the Battery, then discharge the remain energy on the system by pressing the brake pedal once. Let the Battery disconnected for ~ twenty minutes, then reconnect the Battery and report back if that solves the issue. Kind Regards. Dident help, still the same. wont start, sounds like its not trying to. like there is no ignision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Well, I forgot to write that the Exclamation symbol inside a Circle between Parenthesis, might mean the TPMS = Tire Pressure Monitoring System, however, Such symbol might also has something to do with the Brake system, but I bet that nothing to do with the Engine not trying to start. Have you checked if some plug(s) got mistakenly Disconnected during your Fuel Injector Test? Also you might have done a Short-Circuit, blowing the Fuse(s), worth check them too. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 All the plugs are connected, and the fuses are fine Wont fire at all now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 can your car be read with a scanner like our OBDII systems? maybe there is a pending code that will point to some problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Its too old, it came a few years later on the impreza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 bad crank or cam position sensor will inhibit start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 yep, Any way i can test them? i can messure to resistance right? just need to find out what the resistance is suppose to be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Been trying to manually read the ecu codes. But when i connect just the black wires the check engine lamp just keeps blinking. not giving any code. when i connect the green ones and black ones at the same time the lamp just stays iluminated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 well, they are hall-effect or similar devices - they respond to metallic tabs passing by. I don't know what they would measure with an ohmmeter - maybe someone with more experience will know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 (edited) well, they are hall-effect or similar devices - they respond to metallic tabs passing by. I don't know what they would measure with an ohmmeter - maybe someone with more experience will know. I guess you're confident the crank/cam timing is good? Edited August 10, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 well, they are hall-effect or similar devices - they respond to metallic tabs passing by. I don't know what they would measure with an ohmmeter - maybe someone with more experience will know. I guess you're confident the crank/cam timing is good? well, i havent cheked the timing. everything were replased when the engine were rebuildt in january. and then the timing were spot on. And the car were running fine the last time i were driving home. Next day. it was running on 3 sylinders. Dont see the need to looking at timing but will check it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subimp91 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 This does not make sense. How is this possable??? car were running fine home, no problems at all, Next day when i were going to start. it run on 3 sylinders... Crank/cam timing Right side is good Crank-good Left side. exhaust is way off!! Bah, now i might need a new head dont see how this is possable. Installed a brand new cambelth kit in january. pulling in the cambelt now its not loose. its at the spec its suppose to be. Any one know to this might happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Maybe the belt was installed Wrong since January and the valve was Hitting out from timing all this time until it got damaged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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