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on my 2006 impreza that i just got from the dealer 1 week ago it has 2 codes a poo28 and a po420 i checked the oil and it was overfull so i drained a little to get it below the full mark and erased the codes and they stayed off for about three days,just came on this morning the only other problems i have had is the abs light has been on since i have had the car and it has thrown both belts numerous times last time was this afternoon on the way back from church i have changed the belts three times and this is getting retarded. the dealer said i had insurance but it won't kick in for a month,but i am paying for it now i am thinking of giving the car back and taking a 800 dollar lose. i have a appointment with subaru monday at 9:30 am to get all the recalls done but no belts means no alternator or power steering or ac and it is 50 miles to the dealer and 30 miles to the parts store. why does my car throw belts,besides the bad harmonic balancer,the rubber ring is sticking out and it came that way from the dealer, help.

 

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I'm confused as why the dealer even sold this car, let alone isn't fixing it.  And if you returned it why would you take an $800 loss?  

 

The crank pulley (which on subaru's I've been told/read is not a harmonic balancer) being bad could easily cause you to throw belts, or not having them tight enough as well.  

 

You need to fix that P0028 before you even think about the P0420 code.  Whatever is causing that P0028 could be systematically causing the emissions code.  If it's a sensor or whatever. 

 

If it comes back even after being cleared it means something is wrong.

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the belts were tight enough,i just think it was the bad crank pully i am calling them monday to see if they can remedy this problem. the 800 bucjks was a down payment plus insurance, apperintly farmers insurace lists imprezas as a sports car.

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You need to check into the lemon laws in your area dude, seriously. Is it even past the 30 day warranty yet? If its not the dealer needs to fix all this. If there's no warranty, this cars picture is in the dictionary next to the word lemon. There's just too much wrong with that thing.

 

Did you have this thing checked out by a mechanic before you bought it?

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replace the crank pulley.  they very rarely fail so a $35 used one is just as good as a new Subaru one.  i'm actually really surprised it failed on such a new vehicle - i've seen a few 80's stuff fail and I don't even think i've seen a 90's+ one fail yet - probably one I'm forgetting.

www.car-part.com

 

the P0420 code is going to be a debacle unless you can ignore it.  unless you're really lucky it's going to cost new catalytic converter/exhaust work $$$$ to "fix" it.

 

ABS codes are really easy to read yourself - find the procedure online and do it.  plug a self-enclosed pin into a certain slot on a wiring harness above the gas pedal and the light in the instrument cluster (ABS light) starts blikning the code for you.  so if you can look for a plug and count a blinking light you can read the codes yourself, very simple.

 

i'm not sure how the $800 loss works but if the crank pulley, P0420 code and stuff are going to be paid for at a dealer you're gonna get hosed worse than $800. 

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We already have had some of this conversation: if the crank pulley is bad, you are working at damaging your engine block because of crank walk.  And yes, that's where your alternator/ac belts ride. It wobbles, they get thrown.

 

Like I said before, if it was me, I would be having a VERY serious conversation with this dealer.  To sell a car with that kind of defect is criminal.  Now, other stuff is popping up.  I agree with Fairtax: check out the lemon laws (although I think they usually refer to new cars, not used ones).

 

Emily

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I thought about Lemon Laws but didn't mention it for a few reasons:

 

1.)  Most used vehicles are sold "As Is" and the dealerships get you to sign an agreement saying it is "As Is" that was written up by an attorney.  I'm not sure how that applies to Lemon Laws after you sign that.

 

2.)  I don't know how long ago the vehicle was purchased compared to problems occurring.  If I remember correctly from another thread this hasn't even been 2 weeks since purchase date now.

 

3.)  It was never mentioned to have been looked over by a mechanic before purchase.

 

4.)  He said he was going to talk to the dealer and figured I would wait for there response.

 

That being said, lemon laws or not if the dealer refuses to fix the problems, or come to an equitable solution, I would call the Attorney General for your state if it hasn't been too long.  Talk to the Consumer Protection Department (most states have it) and talk to the BBB.  Realistically if the dealer refuses I would first talk to the general manager and explain the situation to them and that if they don't want to help I would explain your next steps (i.e. the attorney general and bbb).

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well i talked to the dealer and he said they would get me new belts but it also needs the pully or it will just mess up the new belts i am going in this morning with a friend and talk to them because i won't drive it the way bit is and tomarrow i have a appointment with the subaru dealer i didn't buy the car from a subaru dealer but from a used car lot down the street. the car has 165,000 miles on it and i don't know what maintenance has been done like timing belts or head gaskets if these haven't been done i will leave the car there until it has been done,your right it is stupid  to sell a car for 10,00 dollars with these problems.

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EGADS BATMAN - $10,000!  the PNW is nuts.

 

you can also set it with self tapping sheet metal screws into the rubber ring or tack weld the pulley back square.  that would be a temporary solution so you can drive it while you address a proper repair.  or it's a permanent repair on an older vehicle.  LOL

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EGADS BATMAN - $10,000! the PNW is nuts.

 

you can also set it with self tapping sheet metal screws into the rubber ring or tack weld the pulley back square. that would be a temporary solution so you can drive it while you address a proper repair. or it's a permanent repair on an older vehicle. LOL

You forget that in the west we don't deal with the salt like the east coast so we don't deal with the rust issues.

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the dealer fixed the pully and the belts and is going to fix the check engine lights and abs tomorrow. the reason it is so high a price is because of my bad credit,i am still paying on my ex wifes  stuff,since we were married her bills are mine,the screwing i got for the screwing i got, thank God no kids.

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i got the runaround from manager to manager finally got an appointment for mon at 9:30 am and they were very apologetic for the whole thing. i wiil see how apologetic monday.

Edited by soopsoop
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  • 5 weeks later...

they fixed it all. boy did they have fun with the catalytic converter the put the new converter in and broke all the bolts on the heat shield,and tried to fix the rear wheel speed sensor but broke it and had to put in a new one. took them all day to fix the heat sheild and a week to fix the rear sensor,had to reorder it twice everything works fine now. free for me.now to change the timing belt,it is under warranty  so if it brakes they have to give me a new motor for 100 bucks. there insurance people would have to inspect the motor first then have them install a new motor.

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Congratulations on getting the dealer to fix the problems.  Concerning the timing belt [and pulleys, water pump, and tensioner], There is almost zero chance it would fail during the presumably short guarantee period.  So forget about that possibility.  You can do some research on it.  You can find the location of the original owner and check with subaru dealers in the area if they did a timing belt change on the car.  Failing to find any information, then you have a choice:  [1] change all the timing belt parts yourself for $200, [2] pay someone to do it for $1000 or [3] just drive for a few years and hope it doesn't fail until you have the experience or money to change it.  Most likely it won't fail for a few years.

 

Just so you know in the future, it is common practice to change the timing belt, etc after purchasing used cars since it's difficult to verify if it's already been done.  You have to figure the price into the purchase price of a used car.  If the timing belt fails while driving, then the car is essentially junk. 

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  • 5 months later...

well it is close to 180,ooo miles and it is still running. the only problem i have had since then is the wheel bearing in the drivers side rear,it went out and my roadside assistance only paid for 25 miles(what the hello). so i fixed it at les schwab for 300 bucks. i think i will change the passenger side rear myself. by the time i get it into the dealer and have them diagnose it would be a lot more,damn insurance.

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  • 1 month later...

My 96 impreza is throwing belt also. Just replace the alternator belt, now the bottom pulley keeps popping off. Got it hand tight again. Started car..popped loose again. Going to get a new pully. Anyone know what the tork spec is on a 96 2.2 impreza. Not much if a car guy.

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My 96 impreza is throwing belt also. Just replace the alternator belt, now the bottom pulley keeps popping off. Got it hand tight again. Started car..popped loose again. Going to get a new pully. Anyone know what the tork spec is on a 96 2.2 impreza. Not much if a car guy.

 

If you mean the main crank pulley torque spec it's pretty high. I believe around 140ft/lbs. 

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