jono Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 OK, must be changes to order of bleeding brakes between RHD and LHD markets RHD on EA81 is right rear, left front, left rear, right front in one popular aftermarket manual bit different from the old furthest from master first, then next, next and WOW , just been reading a manual that looks same as factory and is for RHD market so may need some adjustment for LHD , big but is on refreshing fluid, say to drain old from master nipples. In bold above it states to work the primary circuit first , then the secondary AND the sequence starts with a bleed of the primary nipple (rearmost)on the master, then right rear, left front ...then, if I read correctly, then bleed secondary nipple on master (most forward one) left rear, right front. I have been doing the std criss cross on all four, then maybe on the master, last 18 years never really had much trouble except on the car I am revisiting today, yesterday and Sunday .... bench bleed is likely affected by the time it takes to wrestle with the resistant pipe nut alignment Your experiences ? Ever read factory notes same way I have explained ? But maybe in LHD sequence seeing as I am a guest in here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 When i lifted my hatch the brake lines where disconnected for about a month. When i finally got around to filling the reservoir i started bleeding the right rear first with my hand pump then the left rear. Just to get the brake fluid to start coming out since it takes longer to get back there. Then the left front and right front to get fluid out. Then i started bleeding bubbles out from right rear to left front to left rear to right front. Worked fine for me and it stops great with the ea82t rear disks and ea82 fronts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 When changing the fluid, I try to suck as much as I can out of the master cylinder first. Less cross contamination & less pumping needed to get the new fluid all the way to the back. And always did the whole furthest first, which means on modern cars looking where the ABS controller is. My Toyota has it on the left side of the firewall (where the master would be for a LHD car), so I do right rear, then left rear, right front, left front with it. I suspect the difference for Subaru might be the hill holder, which interrupts one of the circuits (never really liked diagonal circuits, they're a pain off road) and also trying to brake with one circuit in the rain... what were they thinking but it's weird it says left front before left rear, unless they want you to make sure there's fluid in the hill holder before you go too far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Wow, noticed tsb has quoted exact same for RHD bleed sequence. I also suspect I already got cross contamination when pushing pistons back. Biut after several litres of fluid, no debris floaters no more. Further clear head reading shows there is a fluid bleed method as above, the air bleed method is - start from furhtest from master cylinder and work forward - the old school method ! One routine for fluid bleed, another for air bleed !! Lucky there is no hill holder on my , did I forget to say EA81/ Brumby/BRAT ....ever since finding gravity and a smal dia clear hose were my best friends hardly ever needed to pump pedal unless short on time. Either way - it worked until this time. I borrowed a sucker, and it is weird, finding air where there is none so suspect it needs putting away.... off to wait for old mate to show up to do some pumping .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I think seeing some air bubbles when using the 'sucker' is normal. I believe the air is coming from the sucker hose around the bleeder valve. Just keep suckin. I do RR, LF then LR and RF. Prior to bleeding, I suck 90% of the old brake fluid out of the master. Then fill with new fluid. For some reason, brake fluid attracts moisture. That's why they say to always use new fluid from a new unopened sealed container. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Well, I guess LHD & RHD are same for fluid bleed sequence - interesting. Yep, must be the sucker is so efficient, if it can't pull fluid fast enough it will pull air from around the nipple. Mate uses it and abuses it all the time. I cleaned dirty engine oil out of it before I borrowed it. Think I will take your advice and give the sucker another go with that in mind. Am thinking it is crud in the master only recoed a few years back, but may have copped something from pushing pistons back. Starting to lose this challenge. Another idea might be to try plug of the underside outlets after a bench bleed to assist with keeping air out while struggle with pipe nuts .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Ctrl V editthere is a fluid replacement method sequenceair bleeding sequence _ I had better quote with new addition "1] air bleding procedurereplenish the brake fluid rservoir with new recommended brake fluid[DOT3 BTW] and start bleeding air from the wheel cylinder locatedfurthest from the master cylinder".Here is the next bit "bleed air according to 1, 7] Reconfirmation"which is the fluid bleeding sequence1st is at master cylinder, 2 right rear, 3 front left, 4 left rear, 5 right frontIf step 1 is at MC, and instruction tells you to go rear right beiingfurthest away ....little wonder not everyone reads instructions !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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