Torn Rack and Pinion boot

[SubaruBaja03]

Need some help please.  

 

Did an oil change and had the dealership that I go to do a once over and let me know if they see anything or if I was good to go.  They mentioned the CV boots, having front wheel drive cars most of my life this is understandable but then they mentioned the rack and pinion boot?!?!  Never heard of and I was advised that this boot CANNOT be replaced that I need to replace the entire rack and pinion system to the cost of 1100.00.  I need to know if the boot can be replaced or if in fact I need a whole new rack.  I just turned 240,000 miles and 3 years ago did an engine reseal, pin hole oil leaks.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated as I am looking to get a new forester but I really want to keep the Baja for its functionality.

 

Thank you in advance

Matt

[desertsubaru]

With that many miles depending on how long that boot was ripped then the rack could be bad because of all the contaminates that got in to the rack. The racks on these car aren't to hard to change and a lot of junkyards  will have them.

 

http://www.car-part.com/

Edited August 26, 2015 by desertsubaru

[SubaruBaja03]

Hey Desert thank you.

 

Not sure how long the tear has been there.  But can the boot be replaced or does the whole rack need to be?  I know a good deal about cars and their parts but never heard that a boot could not be replaced.  I do understand that if dirt, road grime etc has gotten into that mechanism that I should replace it but never thought of doing it myself.  Thank you for the link I will check it out.  

[desertsubaru]

Im no expert but I know they sell different colored boots for most cars with Racks so they should be replaceable. Have the dealer Or a garage you trust put it up on a lift and show you why the rack is bad besides the boot. If its sloppy or jumpy like its grinding when they turn it chances are the rack is bad. If you search there maybe rebuild kits for racks.

Edited August 26, 2015 by desertsubaru

[forester2002s]

I have a Factory Service Manual for 2002 Foresters.

There is a procedure for replacing the steering boots.

 

It requires removing the tie-rod end from the knuckle-arm. And then unscrewing the outer-end from the tie-rod (taking extra care to note the screwed-length, as this affect the alignment).

The boot can then be slid over the tie-rod, and replaced; and the tie-rod end is then reassembled.

 

Note: This boot-replacement procedure is written up as part of overhaul of the steering-box, and (I think) presumes that this is done 'on the bench'.

But I don't see why the boots couldn't also be replaced in-situ, provided that there is sufficient clearance to access the tie-rods (this may mean removing the front exhaust-pipe).

 

See pages PS-30 & PS-31 of attached PDF.

 

PS20 Steering Gearbox.pdf

[keith3267]

If a CV boot is torn, it has to be replaced immediately or it will grind up the joint in no time.  I've seen them go in as little as three weeks.

 

A steering boot is not early as critical.  I've replaced them after being torn for years, its on of those round tuit jobs.  (I'll do it when I get around to it).  Before disconnecting the outer tie rod end, I use a scratch awl to mark the alignment of the inner and outer tie rods.  I pick one flat on each to bugger up.  Then separate the outer tie rod ball joint (I prefer to use a small pitman arm puller, widely available at most parts stores and reasonably priced at less than $20), then count the number of turns it takes to unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod.  Replace the boot and screw the outer tie rod in with the same umber of turns it took to unscrew it, line up the marked flats to fine tune it back to the original alignment and tighten down the locking nut.

 

Edit: if you are not comfortable with your memory, or ability to count, another trick is again to bugger up two flats and then break the locking nut free.  Then screw the locking not back to where it just contacts the outer tie rod again, about finger tight.  Take some electrical tape or something similar and put three or four wraps around the thread behind the locking nut so it can't back up.  Then unscrew the outer tie rod, unscrew the locking nut so you can replace the boot.  Then run the locking nut back down to the tape and reassemble.

Edited August 26, 2015 by keith3267

[Fairtax4me]

Rack bellows get replaced all the time. How old are your tie rod ends? 240k miles old? Do the inner and outer tie rods and the bellows on both sides and you don't have to worry about any of that stuff for another 240k miles. (like 100k if you use aftermarket stuff)

 

Ive been getting Beck Arnley inner tie rod ends with the boots as a kit from rockauto for about $25 each. The outers for about $20 each. Less than $100 in parts and shipping and the steering is brand new.

[johnceggleston]

in VA, your car will not pass annual safety inspection with a torn rack bellows.
probably other states as well.
also,
not decent shop is going to pass up the chance to ''add on'' a rack bellows when doing any type of service or inspection.
my point being, it has not been torn long.

just replace it.
if you are careful,
and count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end,
you can replace the bellows without having to do an alignment.

[1 Lucky Texan]

consider switching to a new mechanic.

[idosubaru]

Are you sure that's the whole story, because it doesn't make any sense (which is why LT said to get a new mechanic).

Rack boots are replaced

all.

the.

time.

 

Very common.  There's no way a mechanic is surprised by a rack boot.  They're very easy to replace too. 

Technically speaking you only need to remove ONE NUT to replace the boot.  Loosen inner tie rod lock nut, unthread outer tie rod from inner (don't even need to remove the wheel), replace boot.

 

 

If a CV boot is torn, it has to be replaced immediately or it will grind up the joint in no time......A steering boot is not early as critical. 

 

That's good you're on point about CV maintenance, and I agree it should simply be done quickly but it's the other way around.  OEM Subaru CV joints with broken boots and clicking will run 50,000 miles without issues if you avoid slinging sand and abrasives in the joint - think southern GA sand roads and beach driving.  I've done it countless  times, not a big deal, they are very robust joints.

 

If it's the inner joints start making noise, vibrating - you can clean, reboot, and regrease and they're good to go.

You're talking DIY and I agree with you - but considering how many mechanics install new axles over rebooting, and this guy is using a mechanic - that makes it even less important -  just run the axle another few years, might as well get some use out of them before the mechanic throws on cheap aftermarkets!

 

Or buy a used Subaru axle for $15 - $30 www.car-part.com

lots and lots of options, no driveability risks, tens of thousands of miles to plan your repair....no big deal.

 

Steering rack boots are more dangerous because you risk ruining the rack.  The dirt and debris gets in there and every time you steering it's working past a seal on the rack and will cause it to leak eventually.

A leaking rack is more problematic if it's dumping fluid and you got no power steering and more expensive and a much bigger job than a CV axle.

[SubaruBaja03]

Sooberoo - The tie rod ends are about 60k, had them replaced a few years ago but I think that I am going to call another dealership and just ask about replacing the rack & pinion boot and see what they say.  I do have a friend that has a shop so I will hit him up as well as he knows someone that used to work on Ru's at a dealership here in town.

 

Thank you everyone for the info, much appreciated.

[Dj7291993]

You might want to find why it is torn. The boot is just a dust boot, so normally, unless heat has got to them, they don't just tear. However, if the rack atarts leaking fluid into the boots, it will start to break down the rubber, making it more prone to failure. If the boot broke because the rack is leaking, then yes, the rack should be replaced (unless you fancy resealing it). That being said, racks don't typically leak very quickly, and the boots are usually fairly cheap, so as long as you can get the tie rod end off, you could just slap a boot on it and let the rack go. Just know that it won't fix the leak, it'll just protect the rack from foreign material. If you do it yourselfñ nake sure you get the clamp for the inner part of the boot. These are usually crimp clamps, so you can't really re-use them. Or, a big zip tie can work too.

[nicholi2789]

Yeah i would consider another guy for future work because that is just plain untrue. I had torn boots on both sides of my power steering rack on my old 95 Legacy AND 95 impreza. It's pretty easy if you are decent with a wrench. I replaced both boots on my Legacy and even though it was the first time I had ever done it, it only took about 2 hours. Cost me less than 50$ for the boots and clamps off Rockauto.

As the guys said above, take extra special care to put the tie rod back EXACTLY how it came out. I used a white marker and marked the threads.

Do a quick Google search and you'll find lots of threads about people replacing them.

There is no sense in replacing an entire rack when it's still good. I would thoroughly check inside for debris like they said about though.

[lstevens76]

$1,100 to replace a rack is fairly steep.  Typically if I see a high mileage car w/ a torn boot I will recommend a rack replacement, but not at that price.

 

First, if this is the 03 Baja your name implies, Rackdoctor.com sells a full rebuilt rack for $154.95 ($199.95 or $249.95 would be reasonable markup prices at a shop).

 

Second, on that same '03 Baja it is a .6 Hour job to R&R the entire rack.  Even at your average dealer rates that's only $60 to $70 labor.

 

Tack in an alignment and your still not  up to $400.00 for most areas.

 

If that is the original rack, replacing it wouldn't hurt.  Your seals are worn and so is the rest of it.  By replacing it you are essentially eliminating any other possible points of failure.

[1 Lucky Texan]

^^^ fair points to consider - good post with good info.