MDW Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 well today felt like one one step forward two steps back. I was not able to pull the pins out of the pistons, bought a slide hammer, but the adapter did not work for the job AND I could not get the valve springs off, to inspect the valves Also I took a closer look and see that I am wrong. The valves are all the same, one cylinder, which actually isn't the cylinder with the bent rod, just had so much buildup I could not see the marking. So all valves match, none are different. Is it really important that I disassemble these heads completely, because I'm kind of running out of money and can't afford to buy more tools right now, haha. BUT I was able to still pull the cam shaft out and discovered that it is indeed rounded off from the bent pushrod. I did not manage to get a picture of the pushrods, but here are the valve springs and lifters: So I still need to pull the pistons, but I am not sure if that's going to tell us much. I really need to order parts for this ASAP Will i need a custom cam, since the heads are decked? I need pushrods head-gaskets Should I replace rings too? Any recommendations for things to replace while it's apart. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Heads should be checked for flatness if out of spec get them surfaced. Since it only bent one push rod i would think it was a stuck/sticky hydraulic lifter. The car i got had solid lifters and had 3 bent push rods.... so the guy floated the valves on that one. I think your springs should be fine. Rings are your call it probably doesn't need them since they have already been replaced. Stock ea81's have been known to go over 350k without rebuilds. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 (edited) http://www.rockauto.com/info/31/0221425__ra_p.jpg This is a non-hydraulic lifter. There are 4, stuck into small "holes" on the underside of the block. The pushrods ride between them. What you have a picture of is the rocker assembly. There's no reason for the heads to not be flat. The engine did not overheat, and I wouldn't take any more off of them. No, you don't "need" a custom cam, but Delta Cam does regrind them if you want. The question is more whether you want more low end torque or more highway speed. It's been so long since I tore down one of these engines that my brain is failing me at this hour, but I "think" that's a hydraulic cam. I'll double check with Rick tomorrow. Emily Edited September 2, 2015 by ccrinc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 It either had locking tabs added then or has a set of rockers off of a hydraulic setup. Since the solids didn't come factory with locking tabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 ooops. that does make sense for those to be rockers. Yes, those are the lifters that I have in this engine, I will double check when I am there today, but I am pretty sure mine are solid like that. This is going to be my daily driver and road tripper. I would like to start overhauling my brat, so this is going to be driving about 60 miles a day. I don't need anything fancy, but power is always fun I will probably just replace Cam and bent pushrods then and hope for the best. I have access to another ea81, but I am kind of running out of money for projects right now (in the process of buying a house) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 The cam, push rods and lifters really, really need to be all the same, solid or hydraulic. I know it's a pain, but please try to get me pics of the lifters and the pushrods so I can tell if Tman used all the correct parts. Emily 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Right on, I most definitely will do that, I will be headed over to the warehouse in about 2 hours. Thank you for your help diagnosing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Lifters 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Need a radiator, any one have ideas for good matches I may be able to find at my local junkyard for cheap that could be easily retrofitted. Cheapest one I have found so far will be about $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 (edited) Anything you're gonna find at a Junkyard in the Midwest, is probably a long shot. The EA81 Radiators are kinda short, but tall. EA82 Radiator is longer and about the same height. EJ (Impreza/Outback) Radiator is a no go. Uses top mounts to bolt it to the radiator support. And is far to different. Someone tried to put one in my Hardtop when I bought it. It was held in by Zip-ties, And had Hybrid sleeved hoses. You also have to concern your self with the Inlet/Outlet sizes. The EAs use rather small hoses. You're best bet, is to get an OE style rad. You're looking at about $140ish off Ebay shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-APDI-8010698-fits-80-87-Subaru-Brat-/151668040133?fits=Year%3A1983%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL&hash=item23501ea1c5&vxp=mtr Or, if you have O'reilly near you, grab a Murray one. (Their all made by the same 3 companies now days) $129.99http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT1/433698/01386.oap?year=1984&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267725&ck=Search_radiator_1267725_3283&keyword=radiator I know money is running out, I know the feeling far to often lol. But sometimes, there is no cheap option. Edited September 4, 2015 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 1600 pistons ARE EA71 pistons. yep, I understand that, was trying to convey we have had to use a one piston does all three EA71,81 and 82 NA and think the compromise is in compression in my EA81 I built - gets a 160 psi cranking pressure in all pots at 60,000km old. I have factory EA81's with 200,000 and 500,000km on them than punch out 180 and 190 psi cranking speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 I know money is running out, I know the feeling far to often lol. But sometimes, there is no cheap option. I have food in my belly and gas in my tank, so I'm not complaining. Buying a house is dumb, deposits and down-payments suck. I think Rock Auto has one for $107, which is a good deal, If I can't get it now I will be able to before winter and that's the important part. Still need a cam shaft too. It will all be completely worth it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) I did not admit defeat, but I did make a strategic decision. Mechanical_Misfit, Tdoge (is that his name on here?) and myself payed Tom Rhere a visit on sunday. We drank a bunch of beer, enjoyed some good food and talked Old School Subaru for hours. I left with several goodies to get this car running and parts for the EA81. I also left his place with a working EA81, that will be going into Rupert hopefully this week, if I can find a cherry picker. Here she is all cleaned up. The EA81 from CCR will be going in my Brat this winter, with an EA82 manifold that I picked up from Tom. I just need to find a Cam Shaft for an EA81 to complete the build. That project is going on the back burner though. I just put in an order for $200 in parts form Rock Auto and Should have RUpert on the road soon! Edited September 8, 2015 by MDW 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 ... a working EA81, that will be going into Rupert hopefully this week ... Good luck! Keep this thread updated as long as you can. Kind Regards. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Yes, it was a good day. Always glad to help out other Members if/when possible If the manifold in above pic of engine is the one you plan on putting on the engine out of Rupert, it's an EA81 manifold. Did you actually get two manifolds?, Don't remember everything you bought. Was still some things sitting on the floor Monday that I thought you had taken with you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Are you planning an SPFI swap for one of these EA81s? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 If the manifold in above pic of engine is the one you plan on putting on the engine out of Rupert, it's an EA81 manifold. Did you actually get two manifolds?, Don't remember everything you bought. Was still some things sitting on the floor Monday that I thought you had taken with you. It's actually the manifold I took out of Rupert when I got it. The EA82 is going in the Brat! What parts did we leave behind? I'm sure we will be back at some point, haha. Are you planning an SPFI swap for one of these EA81s? Most likely no, I have been taking things out of the car and trying to simplify as much as possible. I love mechanical, may even be using a manual choke carb if I can't successfully rebuild this hitachi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 There were lots of parts dug out and looked at. Some were bought, others put back. Main concern of mine is, did you buy and take a disty with you? Had one sitting near where your stash pile was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 I do have a disty, I think we pulled several out, i did take one. I should be putting the Engine in tonight, getting parts tomorrow to complete the job. so we will see if It all works soon enough. I have high hopes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Good to hear on the disty. Don't recall if I mentioned it, but,,, Do believe I tapped the exhaust stud holes to 7/16-14 thread on that engine. Most of mine get that treatment if the Factory threads pull out. More than enough material left to do heli-coil inserts if the need/want ever arises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Oh cool, thanks for letting em know. I'm assuming I will need a different bolt then for mounting my exhaust. Need to make a parts run anyways, and I'm sure I will make a few more parts runs this weekend when I find out everything else I'm forgetting, haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 What are the crucial bolts to be putting lock-tight on? What's the hard and fast rule on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Personally, I use the Blue Loc-Tite on flywheel, pressure plate, and crank pulley bolts. All other bolt threads get a coat of anti-seize. And I coat the entire length of the intake manifold bolts with it also. If I did re-tap the exhaust stud holes, it will be easy to see so, as it is a very coarse thread. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 I've had a 79 wagon with a badly bent pushrod. Got it back together to find it had a bad thrust bearing. The 78 I just picked up dropped a valve into #4 and locked it up. Engine only has 52k on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Well it's been a long 4 days, multiple trips to the parts store, hardware store...you know the usual for putting an engine in a car. I have had a lot of fun and everything is in the car. of coarse it wont start. Gave up for the night will tackle it again tomorrow. Issues. at first the bowl was not filling with gas. I re-built my hitachi and i think something may be wrong with float. I unbolted the top of the carb, removed the float and cranked the engine over to see if gas was even entering carb. It just kind of slowly poured out. I bolted the carb back together with the float removed so the bowl would fill in an attempt to get gas into the engine. I believe gas is now flowing through carb, I can see gas getting into manifold, but no spark. I even tried spraying carb cleaner directly into the top of the carb, but no spark. I will do some detective work tomorrow to try and work these kinks out. I will take some pictures too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now