Having a hard time with this....

[hillbillyhans]

http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2125080?ad_cid=3

 

http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2210457?ad_cid=5

 

http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2381754?ad_cid=10

 

I'm having an awful hard time deciding on these three. Any help, or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

[hillbillyhans]

I guess I should've given some background. This is going to be a dedicated hunting/fishing rig. It will need to take several trips a year over 1200 miles, and lots of trips 200-300, but won't be used for a DD. I've decided to go this route instead of a Toyota 4runner, mostly because the Subaru crowd seems to do more in the way of maintenance than the Toyota folks. Not trying to generalize, but this is what I've seen so far.

Any help on sticking with one of those three and going with it would help.

[hillbillyhans]

My budget is $6k.

[Rooster2]

The white Subie, ( third link) has a rebuilt title. Any evidence of how badly damaged, and how? If from a flood, I would avoid it.

[mikec03]

The second one is good assuming you can find out who did the HG and talk to them to gauge their ability [Good question: How many HG's do you do a year].

 

The white 2000 would be best if the Brighton had a 2.2 engine but I think that they discontinued it in 99.

[hillbillyhans]

The third link had a fender bender way back in the day.... the guy getting rid of it wanted a newer vehicle for a commuter. If it was a good reliable car, why the hell would he not just use it for a commuter? Seems sketchy.

 

Just texted on a baja, long story short, if you ask too many questions, you get called a smart a$$. I asked him if he was always so charismatic and polite.....no response yet.

[1 Lucky Texan]

if you are really gonna have gear in the vehicle (and people?) you might consider holding out for an H6 . (though, no 5spds in those - some people prefer auto for 'soft' roading don't they?)

 

aside from that, those 2.5s after about 01-02 or so got mostly external HG problems, so, i might avoid that 2000. BUT, if you can positively confirm that one of those older 2.5s was PROPERLY rebuilt with MLS gaskets by good shop - that would be fine.

 

consider also, you might find a craiglist car with an overheated engine, then have a shop rebuild a junkyard engine to put in it - more hassle and probably not a bargain - but a nice reliable rig.

Edited August 31, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[AdventureSubaru]

#2 for these reasons

 

Head gasket issue should be taken care of with replacement.

 

Better ground clearance than the white legacy and outback options of fog lights etc for dark trails.

 

It's of the generation where parts are more readily available than the 05+ from junkyards etc. and is thus much less expensive to maintain.

 

These are great hunting and fishing rigs. I use mine regularly for both.

[hillbillyhans]

Thanks for the replies. I still haven't decided, but I'm leaning towards the maroon one because it's easy to track down where the maintenance was done.....

[1 Lucky Texan]

consider a pre-purchase inspection - might get something to bargain with, or, bad enough news to dodge a bullet!

[hillbillyhans]

I'm gonna have to do my own inspections as I live too far away to not get this done in one day. If I take it to a shop, it will add hours of time to the trip. As an industrial mechanic who has owned a '98 and a '13 outback I feel comfortable with my limited knowledge. But a good suggestion no doubt.

[1 Lucky Texan]

oh, that's cool.

 

confirm the tires are all the same size. If you see mixed tires on a Soob awd, that's a bad sign.

Take alook under the hood of any autotrans car and make certain the FWD fuse slot is empty - then, take it for tight circles on dry pavement - should be able to idle, or just above idle make circles with no jerking/binding.

 

On 5 spds, do that test after the trans is warmed-up. torque bind in the sticks is often worse/present only after a highway run - at first.

 

easy for folks to confuse fluids - especially on the autos - front diff should be GL-5, trans fluid needs to be clean of course. a/c problems are often just leaky o-rings at suction and discharge on the comp. sometimes the schrader valves at the ports. Noisy power steering is often a bad o-ring on the adapter on top of the pump - bubbles in the fluid tank. easy fix.  Odd overheating 'could' be headgaskets - that usually piushes fluid into the overflow with combustion gas. But, aftermarket thermostats cause problems too.

 

Edited September 1, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[hillbillyhans]

Thanks Lucky Tec. Very good info. I'm done with auto trannys, so much cheaper to replace the clutch.

[hillbillyhans]

Tex not Tec

[idosubaru]

Good call avoiding someone not answering questions or having an attitude.  A baja isn't overall practical anyway.  I'd rather have interior space for gear.  When I travel west for Elk Hunting and lots of equipment, it's trailer time.

 

OEM installed headgaskets leak externally, once repaired they can then also leak externally.

Any headgaskets - check for external leaks at the bottom head to block mating surface.

Repalced gaskets - run the car awhile and frequently check the overflow tank for bubbling while idling, after driving, when car is hot.  Any bubbles = likely headgasket issue.

 

I'm the weirdo here but auto's can lock the 4WD on demand, can't do that with MT's, AT's are easier to tow with.  With clutches, input shaft bearing failures, and synchro issues, and a more expensive/problematic VLSD faliures and replacement, manual advantages are waning.

[idosubaru]

For ultimate reliability - if you can do the work yourself:
 

1.  buy a car with a blown engine - buy a JDM or another engine with original headgaskets - which suggests it was never overheated and replace them yourself...or run them as-is.

2.  buy a car with a blown engine and install a CCR engine with 36,000 mile 36 month warranty - although most places don't honor warranty unless it's installed by a shop or ASE certified mechanic.

 

It's nice to get into an engine that hasn't been overheated.  I just did this myself on an H6 - but that's a little easier since the timing chain is 34 miles of sealant - it's nearly impossible for that to look OEM once removed and reinstalled.

 

I'm a big proponent of buying from private sale/owners. use your eyes and ears to discern a good seller and good car.  a doctor who is moving, two retired professors tired of driving a stick in the city, a guy in over his head shocked by air bag costs, a local business owner with multiple cars for his family who doesn't want to deal with it, meeting a young professional at a home with their kids, a local university worker just wanting to get rid of a car after his wife bought a new car, a highly accomplished engineer who bought a new car, a well regarded research scientist...all folks I've bought from, and many more.  they're busy professionals with families, nice homes, and couldn't care less about a car, not the type of people who like to even suggest a hint of indiscretion. they're just ready to move on - and all but one were cheap vehicles.

 

but - the for sale by owner one isn't a nice one - lower end, not outback, not lifted...so probably low on your list.

 

05+'s have a few very minor issues - LCA's, cat converter recalls (05's), wheel bearings, etc, and would still be due for a thorough timing belt gig.  so the 05+'s don't gain you much except newer styling and easier resale in the future (at least around here where rust dates stuff terrible fast).

 

some 00-01's have rear subframe rust issues, but that's unlikely an issue out there unless the car moved?

[hillbillyhans]

Thank you guys for all of your insight. It's very much appreciated. I have allot to look over, and allot more reading to do.

[lstevens76]

Just because an engine was overheated doesn't mean you replace it.  Most of the time you can repair it just as easily as a junkyard engine.  On a car w/ bad head gaskets or overheating my concern would be whether coolant and oil mixed in the crankcase.  If that didn't occur I wouldn't be heavily concerned about an overheat as long as it gets repaired correctly.

 

That being said, it shows your looking in Midvale, UT just south of Salt Lake.  Your account shows your in Wyoming.  If your going to travel to pick this car up I would check both Southern Idaho (Boise to Twin Falls area) and the Reno area as well.  Based on what you posted I know there are some cars well within the budget that are well taken care of in Idaho, and Reno seems to have lower prices than Idaho or Utah for Subaru's.  I purchased the engine in my '00 OBS outside of reno for about a 1/5th of what it would sell for here.  I've also watched and passed up some flat out steals on Subaru's out of Reno (compared to here).

 

The big catch on the generation your looking at it is making sure it has already been repaired and done right.  Knowing this you might be best to purchase one w/ a blown head gasket and having the work done.  This way you know it was done right and you don't have to sweat it.

 

But, if you want a good deal this is the wrong time of year.  If you can wait another 60 days prices will start coming down again.  We are in the "back to school" jack up the price the period of sales.  Broken down cars tend to go down in price right now and anything that runs tends to go up.  The reason for this is the amount of buyers since high school kids are spending there summer earnings to buy cars, parents are buying kids cars, etc....  Every fall the prices go up starting around mid-august to the end of october.