jstephan Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Have a 2009 outback sport, started a slight shudder about a year and a half age while backing and turning. Problem only happened when vehicle was warmed up. Has gotten progressively worse. I had all new tires on vehicle and flushed and replaced tranny fluid problem is still present. Since manual tranny placing fuse in 4wd slot will not help to diagnose as bad duty c solinoid. Any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 No electrics on the manual trans, thus no solenoids/fuses. The AWD is purely mechanical. If you end up with torque bind, the center differential has to be replaced. Fluid changes do nothing because the viscous unit that goes bad in the diff is totally sealed and uses its own fluid which does not mix with the gear oil in the trans. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) howdy, I'm in Canton regularly, was just there last weekend. +1 replace viscous center diff. trans doesn't have to come out to do it so, while it's not cheap, it's not an eye sore of a price tag. or if it's completely failed (torque bind all the time) - you can convert the car to FWD or RWD for a free fix if you do the work yourself. LOL Edited September 1, 2015 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstephan Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 How involved is it to repair/replace, parts needed and ball park on price. I can do the work myself just never had to work on a subie before. Also in the past week air condo seems to be getting week, checked my refridgerent level and it seems to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Many years ago the part you need was $600. Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) verify as i spent 17 seconds searching but it's $475 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Center-Differential-Assm-1999-2014-Impreza-Forester-Legacy-Outback-OEM-/141728076034?fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy Edited September 8, 2015 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 That's a good price. Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) WAIT.....when you say you replaced the tranny fluid, was that the front or the rear diff? The reason I ask is that 3 years ago, on my 2001 Forester 5MT with about 105k miles on her at that time, I experienced the torque bind when engine warm issue too. I went ahead and replaced BOTH front and rear diff fluid and the problem has been gone ever since. The FRONT (or Center as some say) diff fluid change seems to have been the key to fixing my bind. And yes, all the advice that came pouring in was the same that you are getting. And yes, everyone jumped on me telling me that changing my fluid COULD NOT POSSIBLY FIX the problem bcuz my car is a manny tranny. But, the new fluid in the front diff did indeed cure MY torque bind. Your issue could be different, but the cheap easy fix should be explored first. Edited September 13, 2015 by unibrook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzGUY46 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 try some anti-slip used for american posi-rearends. $6 fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 try some anti-slip used for american posi-rearends. $6 fix No no no!!! Horrible advice! DO NOT USE friction modifiers in the manual trans on these cars. It coats the synchros and makes it impossible to shift. It will make every gear grind. The limited slip unit in the center differential does not use clutches, it is totally SEALED. It uses its own silicone based fluid. It DOES NOT MIX with the gear oil in the transmission. If the center diff has locked up it has to be replaced. That's the only way to fix it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 And yes, all the advice that came pouring in was the same that you are getting. And yes, everyone jumped on me telling me that changing my fluid COULD NOT POSSIBLY FIX the problem The only way this happens is if the seals on the limited slip unit fail and the fluid inside leaks out. Some of the 99-01 years did have a problem with a snap ring on the limited slip unit failing and allowing it to pop open and leak the fluid out. This causes a loss of drive power to the rear wheels on slippery surfaces. Basically no AWD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstephan Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Yes replaced both center and rear fluids, no change or cheap fix, has rear tire blow out yesterday, put on donut and allhell broke loose bind was twice as bad and while driving in a straight line. Luckily was only about 2.5 miles from home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 smaller diameter tire creates greater difference in axle rotation so, center diff is slipping even less than before. no question now - center diff failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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