Gasket97 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I have an 1988 gl wagon I have no spark, I checked the coil with a multimeter and when I cranking I'm only getting about 5 volts to the coil, the coil is only a couple months old, the fusible links have continuity, my timing belt is intact and spinning, my rotor screw is in and the rotor is spinning, the cap and rotor are clean as well. Where should I go next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Put a temporary jumper between coil + and battery positive and try again. You will have to remove it to stop the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I want to add to naru's post: What voltage are you getting at the coil key on engine off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gasket97 Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 I tried the wire and I get a yellow spark, I will check the coil with the key on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gasket97 Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 What is the little black box attached to the coil bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Its the ignition transistor, Ive also seen it called an amplifier. It uses pulses from the ecm to switch the coil. I have also read that the car will run with this removed/bypassed. Ive not tried it tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Make sure the coil bracket is properly grounded too. Edited September 3, 2015 by ihscout54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gasket97 Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Its grounded, I may try picking up a junkyard unit for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 The wire coming off of the hot alternator stud, may have grown brittle and lost conductivity. Same for the engine ground wire at that connection to the frame, in front of the battery. Same goes for the wire from the bottom of the fusible link box at the connection to the battery hot terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gasket97 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 I think I've got it narrowed it down to the crank position sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 The distributor. No code? Unless you have an extra one, or a junk yard with a disty in stock you should pull it apart and check all the internal connections, and condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gasket97 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Went and pulled a dizzy from the junkyard and it's runs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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