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1990 legacy turning bind


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first - tires must be the same size/brand/model - and near each other in wear.

 

second, automatics have a FWD fuse slot - under the hood. Put any spare fuse in there and see if the problem goes away. (I think on your car, it may be a little box on/near the right side (US pass.) strut tower?) If the problem goes away and you don't want to spend any time/$$$ on the car - you can drive in FWD mode.

 

but, sometimes, the problem is a bad Duty C Solenoid, or, a wet clutch pack that is binding (I think some older soobs had an aluminum part that wears too quickly, there may be a steel upgraded part if you repair your trans  - or you may need to install that part in a replacement trans?). some people shop for a replacement trans - often getting a used one from a junkyard with fewer miles. Some people repair their trans. any replacement trans must be the same final drive ratio. If the car is new to you, maybe a prev. owner put the wrong trans in it?

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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+1 torque bind.

 

1.  all tires need to match in size, air pressure, and closely in tread depth.

2.  change the transmission fluid - one flush or 3 drain and refills.

 

Install the FWD fuse in the FWD fuse holder by the passengers side strut tower.

If the binding doesn't go away then your Duty C solenoid has failed.

If it does the clutches are sticking and item #2 above may help

 

If it doesn't resolve by the above steps then repair involves removing the rear extension housing and replacing the clutches and/or Duty C solenoid.

 

Alternately you can:
Install a switch to flip between FWD and AWD (this only works if the FWD fuse works)

 

Or remove the rear half of the driveshaft (install FWD fuse just in case) and run it in FWD.  You can do this temporarily so it's not binding/damaging other stuff while you plan a proper repair.  Or you can do this indefinitely and run the car like this.  Install studded snow tires for the winter.

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