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A wife without a clue


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Remove two lower 14mm engine mount nuts.

Remove upper engine dogbone mount - one bolt.

 

With only those three fasteners removed you can now jack the engine up and get enough room to easily pull the heads with the engine in the vehicle.

Once the intake manifold and exhaust are out of the way you can jack the side of the engine up that you're pulling.

 

In order to avoid repeat failures, follow these two steps:

1. use Subaru Turbo EJ25 headgaskets, this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-11044AA642-GASKET-CYLINDER/dp/B00BGGBQ6Y

 

2. resurface the heads.  that's easily done yourself as well.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/

 

Install a complete Gates timing belt kit, they're like $125 on Amazon for new belt, idlers, and tensioner and you're good for another 100,000 miles.

Edited by grossgary
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Hi.  I was a hone and lap specialist for many years, and when going towards the finish in the process of refinishing, we always 'wrote' onto the surface of what we were either lapping or at times, even honing. 

 

When you believe you are possibly 'finished', take a felt marker or pencil and mark the entire head or part:  doesn't need to be perfectly covered, just fairly well.  Then, sand again, lightly, once over, and then look at your marks.  It will highlight quickly if there are any low spots or high spots remaining. 

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Oh, by the way:  I rebuilt a complete engine once without a stand: pulled motor, put onto a cart, took into my dining room, placed onto a temporary sheet of linoleum, (after cleaning), and tore it down and reassembled it there. It can be done, and I was a single mother then- sole supporter of family, and it had blown a head gasket.  Sent block out to have one cylinder re-sleeved, too. So, there are ways, if you wanted to remove whole motor.  Build a stand with saw horses.  I am sure you are capable, if you're willing to do the head gasket!!  

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Oh, by the way:  I rebuilt a complete engine once without a stand: pulled motor, put onto a cart, took into my dining room, placed onto a temporary sheet of linoleum, (after cleaning), and tore it down and reassembled it there. It can be done, and I was a single mother then- sole supporter of family, and it had blown a head gasket.  Sent block out to have one cylinder re-sleeved, too. So, there are ways, if you wanted to remove whole motor.  Build a stand with saw horses.  I am sure you are capable, if you're willing to do the head gasket!!  

 

That is the way to pull yourself up by your boot straps! In your dining room no less! I feel like such a wimp using an engine crane and stand.  What engine was it?

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My only advice is take it slow and steady. It is costlier to do it over again than it is doing it right he first time. Also ask many questions and take picture for us as well.

 

I have discovered that if you use something like masking tape such that when you disconnect a hose or electrical connector, write down the step number of the dis-assembly. Then putting it back together is simply a matter of counting the steps in reverse.

Edited by MR_Loyale
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That is the way to pull yourself up by your boot straps! In your dining room no less! I feel like such a wimp using an engine crane and stand.  What engine was it?

It was on my Mazda GLC, can't remember which engine it had now, but it was a 5 door hatchback, 1980 I think. It blew a head gasket, and I didn't have the money to even fix it right away, so drove it with bad head gasket (leak), for some time before I could afford to tear it down.  By then, one cylinder was bad, so needed to re-sleeve that, and then, proceed. I armed myself with three repair manuals (one was for general engine rebuilt procedures, one was Chilton for that model, one was Mazda for that model and went to work! I had worked for a Detroit Diesel remanufacturing center for some time, and knew the block procedures...rings, crank, torques, etc., but never a complete engine.. In the end, I had a friend that was an import auto mechanic, who I asked to come over after I did the rockers, as I had no upper block assembly experience, and asked if he would inspect the job.... 

 

It ran great, and I kept it for another 25,000 miles, then sold it. 

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My only advice is take it slow and steady. It is costlier to do it over again than it is doing it right he first time. Also ask many questions and take picture for us as well.

 

I have discovered that if you use something like masking tape such that when you disconnect a hose or electrical connector, write down the step number of the dis-assembly. Then putting it back together is simply a matter of counting the steps in reverse.

This is a great tip!  Forgot about that: label everything very well.  Clean any bolts as they come off, and especially for smaller ones, lay them into a piece of masking tape after cleaned and label:  keeps any parts from becoming lost, which happens in the very best of organized rebuilds!

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I'm changing head gaskets on my husbands Subaru Forester 04. Any tips on how to do it or make it easier? I am not going to pull it, it will remain in the car.. I don't have a stand. Thanks!

I didn't have a stand, either, but thought I may as well replace rod bearings, and all the rest, since I'm in there.  Cost wasn't very much more, but peace of mind : priceless!

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