zmarrott Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 so ive got a strange electrical failure thats come up in my mutt subaru. '88 GL body and wiring with unoriginal EA81 engine. ive noticed once or twice before that the radio lost all presets meaning constant power was interrupted and been slowly cleaning up the poor work that was done by whoever swapped the engine and just went for a drive and hang out for a few hours with my friend, and right as we're getting back we stop for a drink and when i try to start the car almost all electrical gives out. when the key is in the ACC position, i have power, but the overhead light is blinking to the beat of the door chime and as soon as the key is in RUN, all inside power cuts out and i cant crank. the radiator fan and fuel pump get power, but nothing else i can see. also when the hazards button is pressed while the key is in ACC, an awful buzzing sound comes from behind the driver kneeboard. i think from the ECM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 First thought is fusible links the wire feeding them and all associated connections. This stuff is near the battery on the fender, so you might as well clean the battery terminals as well and check your grounds. Since the car is a "mutt" Its possible the fan and pump have their own power directly from the battery. Seems odd a car with a points conversion (wasnt that yours?) would still have a functioning feedback system. The sound is more likely the hazard flasher unit or some other relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmarrott Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 fusible links was my first thought as well, but from what i can tell they look good. i did have to replace one a few weeks ago, so i just made a little wire to clip on. and the fan and pump have power from a wire out of the original harness. and yes the ea81 with points is this one. for the noise from the flashers, it wouldnt bother me soo much if it wasnt soo loud. its definitly not the mechanical click that is normaly heard from them. its a constant loud buzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Check that wire going from the (+) on the battery to the fusible link box. Ide take it out and inspect it. It could be dismal inside the connector. Or weak where it connects to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmarrott Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 the positive lead from the fusible links looks good. pushed the car down the road to the subaru dealer to have them do a wire diagnostic. waiting to hear back now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 1988 is now three years short of thirty years old, I would think that the first thing to make sure is working correctly is the ignition switch as is is a mechanical connection in the actual switch part on the back of the ignition barrell assembly cum steering lock unit. It is a simple unsrew to remove the actual electrical part and then check with an Ohm meter to make sure all is happening as it should there after all it is the major part with moving contacts that can and do wear or get dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmarrott Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 ill check the ignition switch tomorrow after the deal get back to me again. first off they told me my battery was toast. it still read 12.5v so i didnt think anything of it, but it doesnt surprise me considering the kid i bought the car from said he looked up on youtube how to restore car batteries. got the new battery to the dealer so just waiting on further info from them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 On further thought do not just trust a Multi Meter for voltage checks as I have seen them read Voltage OK but when you check with a Test Light the globe is dim showing that there is not enough current to take any load. Voltage and Amps are required to do any significant electrical work, Hence the globe by putting a load on things will add an extra check into the system to verify the circuit can actually work in real life situations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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