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I broke the outer edge off the passenger side cam pulley when installing a timing belt. I put a notch where the dash mark had been, or at least I thought i did?  I just saw a post where Fairtax said that the arrows on both cam pulleys should be pointing at 1:30 when the timing is fairly close. If that is so then I'm about 180 off on that side. It's without a doubt part of the no start problem I've been having?

Edited by darsdoug
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I didn't know that outer ring was that flimsy.

 

Anyway, yeah you're 180 out on the drivers side. That's going to throw off fuel and spark timing along with the stroke timing for those two cylinders.

 

In lieu of the notch there's a way you can time the passenger cam properly using that arrow. Basically you have to use a compass or something that will show you a 45° angle from the centerline of the camshafts. Line up the arrow as close to 45° (1:30) as you can. Do the same on the other side as well since you don't have the cover.

 

Once the belt is on, spin the crankshaft around 1-3/4 turns until all three arrows are pointing straight up. It's pretty easy to tell if one side or the other isn't pointed straight up, if that's the case it's off by a tooth or so. Make a note of which way it's off, turn the crank 90° so the timing notch lines up, remove the belt and reset on the sprocket, then repeat the check.

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on the crank sprocket,

count the teeth between the correct timing has mark and the 3 oclock (arrow if you have one ) position.

then count back from the passenge cam ''arrow'' position and mark the correct timing position on the that cam.

 

this will get it right unless you miss the exact tooth position of the arrow position.

 

ps: the cam sprocket has twice as many teeth as the crank sprocket.

 

 

i'm sure this is a dumb question,

but is the passenger sprocket on backwards?

the front face around the bolt head appears to be different?

there appears to be a flange on the rear of the sprocket?

does the alignment ''dowel'' / pin hole go all the way thru?

is it even possible to mount the sprocket back side out?

was the alignment pin missing?

why isn't there bare metal at every tooth where the flange broke off?

it was manufactured as all one piece, the flange would have to ''break'' at all of the teeth.

 

 

dumb right?

Edited by johnceggleston
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My avatar speaks for itself. I found another complete 1990 EJ22 with a bad head gasket that was pulled about a year ago. I'm going to get it and start from scratch. The flange on the pass side cam pulley came off during TB install. I was using a flat screw driver to help roll the belt up on the cam pulley. If there are arrows on both front and back of the cam pulley then yes it might be on backwards? It's toast anyway.

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I meant the pass side cam pulley is toast.  I"m going to get another one plus a complete intake manifold set up from a same year EJ22. I'm know I'm losing fuel pressure at the rail until I pinch off the return line then it holds pressure great. That rules out leaking injector O-rings and points more toward a bad fuel pressure regulator doesn't it?

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Oh, you meant the pulley.

 

Yeah if it holds fuel pressure when you pinch the return line that rules out o-rings, injectors, etc. The FPR does seem to be leaking though it may just be due to buildup on the valve. They're kind of a pain to replace because the screws on them are tiny and the heads strip all the time.

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Oh, you meant the pulley.

 

Yeah if it holds fuel pressure when you pinch the return line that rules out o-rings, injectors, etc. The FPR does seem to be leaking though it may just be due to buildup on the valve. They're kind of a pain to replace because the screws on them are tiny and the heads strip all the time.

I already put a different FPR on. It wasn't a new one. I had it left over from the green hornet project. I'm still kicking myself for selling that wagon. Apparently I'd temporarily lost my common sense and good judgement that day. ha ha.

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I am fairly certain that I need to get a new FPR. It holds fuel pressure great with the return line pinched. As a matter of fact it started right up when I cranked it over with the return line pinched off but it started bucking and died in about five seconds. Too much pressure causing that?

Edited by darsdoug
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Finally!!

 

At some point, everyone who's ever worked on a car has far overthought some simple problem, and took the long way around the block to get it fixed. Like you just drove ten miles to figure out, yeah I should have taken that left way back there.

 

Hopefully you got learned something besides frustration out of that little detour!

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I've said this before, but it's worth repeating:

 

If you're changing a timing-belt, use a wax crayon to mark the old belt, and all gear-pulleys (idlers don't matter), and the timing-marks on the block. Then take photos of this setup. Do all of this BEFORE removing the old belt.

 

Then proceed with installing the new belt.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Went for a 150 mile drive yesterday (car running great) and did some shopping at the Arlington Pic-N-Pull. Found another cam pulley and some other parts I needed from same build year wagon. Nice yard, nice people, and the sun was out. What more can a guy ask for?

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