DaveT Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Ok from what I see in the listing, they should be real OEM. The list of engine displacements sounds ok. The newer EA82 series only had 1.8s in the US, as far as I know. So it sounds like they are for older engines. The OEM ones I bought recently for my EA82 rebuilds are black, and have a slippery feel to them. They also have metal reinforcing in an inner layer. I do not know if the older ones were made this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I think Corteco makes the non masonite ones as well. Just make sure they are not the cardboard ones. Some advice for you: do this job when you have more money to do it right. Pull the engine, replace the gaskets, belt, clutch and hoses. Im against trying to do this job in the car, especially since these motors are so easy to pull. You dont even need a hoist if you have a helper. Getting the heads in and out, fighting with the push rods and trying to inspect the block mating surface would be annoying in the engine bay. If your car isnt overheating and not mixing fluids then open a savings account, and drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 I think Corteco makes the non masonite ones as well. Just make sure they are not the cardboard ones. Some advice for you: do this job when you have more money to do it right. Pull the engine, replace the gaskets, belt, clutch and hoses. Im against trying to do this job in the car, especially since these motors are so easy to pull. You dont even need a hoist if you have a helper. Getting the heads in and out, fighting with the push rods and trying to inspect the block mating surface would be annoying in the engine bay. If your car isnt overheating and not mixing fluids then open a savings account, and drive it. Hold your horses! ... I dont need a hoist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) sapp? Think outside the box. 2 guys an Iron pipe or maybe a 4x4 and some chain. Heck some nylon rope. The engine is only like 200 lbs. Obviously a picker would be better, not required. Edited October 14, 2015 by ihscout54 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 I use a Squared wooden plank, placed one side on a Wall, and a truck on the other side... ...and a chain... we're tight on money here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 [/offtopic] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 sapp? Think outside the box. 2 guys an Iron pipe or maybe a 4x4 and some chain. Heck some nylon rope. The engine is only like 200 lbs. Obviously a picker would be better, not required. Right... yeah... that makes sense. Dang now I just feel like a moron (and rightly so). Okay so it looks like I will be pulling the engine now since I dont need a hoist. So is there anything special that I should be aware of when puling these engines? Sorry for my stupidity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Right... yeah... that makes sense. Dang now I just feel like a moron (and rightly so). Okay so it looks like I will be pulling the engine now since I dont need a hoist. So is there anything special that I should be aware of when puling these engines? Sorry for my stupidity.Giving you a hard time, Sorry! Definitely did not mean to make u feel stupid, becuase your not. On the occasion that I feel some one on the board is lame I do not reply to their posts. I think I reply to all of yours. I actually feel for your situation becuase Ive been there.As for the removal without a crane, its a cinch. Reinstallation on the other hand not so much. It seems like a daunting task, and it is a project. You will be shocked how easy it is after you do it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Aside from doing whatever you need to remember everything to reconnect. Afrwr removing the motor mount bolts, get a jack under the transmission, lift it an inch. When you are trying to get the engine off of the transmission, or putting back together, the crankshaft and transmission input shaft have to be in a straight line relative to each other. If you have a standard shift, the clutch splines have to align. It should not take a lot of force either way. It's just something that takes a little getting used to, trying to get a heavy thing precisely moved. Sometimes the pins between the engine and transmission can be crusty making removal a little sticky. Clean them up before re assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Right... yeah... that makes sense. Dang now I just feel like a moron... We Never tried to make you feel bad; in fact we only tried to Help, the idea of the wooden plank I wrote, has been helping me since long ago; I did that 22R / Trans swap with the help of some friends using that idea, also I changed the engine on my wife's car like that... etc... Back on topic, I always remove all the big things I could from the engine bay, such like Radiators with their fans, in order to make enough room for unexpected movement of the engine. Please take care, be sure that whatever you'll use, is not going to move / slip \ break. Good Luck, Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) No, you guys are great! I'm not blaming you guys for anything. I just feel like it should be obvious that a 1.8L aluminum engine does not need a hoist and it should be obvious to me. Anyways, thanks for strengthening/helping me out I plan to do this job this next weekend. I have a several aviation guys around my college who are willing to help so I figure I will have plenty of help and should be able to get it done in one weekend. I cant wait to get this done. If you guys think of anything else that I should know or consider just let me know Edited October 15, 2015 by Sapper 157 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) I wish to add one thing to the awesome posts you have already gotten from dave turbobrat and jezz. You dont need to remove the hood, just use a piece of pipe or anything for that matter to push the hood open to its max, make sure its secure or you will need head stitches. Are you gunna be able to afford a clutch? I highly reccomend it while the engine is out. Edited October 15, 2015 by ihscout54 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 There is a hole in a little piece on top of the passenger side strut tower. You pop the hood stay out of it's normal location, put it in that hole, lift the hood almost vertical, and the other end fits in the slot near the usual hole you normally use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 ... use a piece of pipe or anything for that matter to push the hood open to its max ... Good idea, I have used the stick of an old broom as well. Hoping that the witch (our home maid) doesn't need it to fly during the swap... Don't forget to be Sure that you already have everything you'll need to do the Job successfully, prior to start; such like tools, penetrating oil, anti-seize oil, the parts you want to replace, extra bolts, washers, etc... and a Stereo for music in the Background; also maybe snacks, and soda or beer! Good Luck, Kind Regards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 (edited) Don't forget to be Sure that you already have everything you'll need to do the Job successfully, prior to start; such like tools, penetrating oil, anti-seize oil, the parts you want to replace, extra bolts, washers, etc... and a Stereo for music in the Background; also maybe snacks, and soda or beer! Good Luck, Kind Regards. Do you happen to remember off the top of your head what kinds of the bolts and nuts I would need? (e.g. length, width, etc.) I can always make a run to the hardware store once when I get them out so never mind. ihscout, no i wont be able to afford a new clutch. That will be next years project. Yeah I have been gathering stuff like crazy. I swear this car wants me to be broke, lol. Today I got oil and filter, a jug of coolant, engine degreaser, WD-40, and PB Blaster. I also got my gasket set yesterday from FEL-PRO. Tomorrow I 'm gonna swing by Home Depot and grab the mineral spirits, sandpaper, maybe some nuts and bolts, and contact cement. Am I forgetting anything? Thanks for the tip about the car hood. As for the misc. enjoyment stuff, I have a nice big speaker that I'm gonna hook up. I'll scrounge up some grub and soda for the guys and me, but im probably gonna have to skip out on the beer , being as that I am at a bible college right now and still underage it might be just a tiny bit frowned upon, hahaha lol Edited October 16, 2015 by Sapper 157 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Do you happen to remember off the top of your head what kinds of the bolts and nuts I would need? ... You'll need Millimetric ones of the Best Quality you can find, I always use the ones that are inox / rust proof, regarding the measurements: as I am not sure, I'll avoid to write them, but you shall not need to change 'em all, only the worn ones; I found some worn bolts that holds the intake manifold on my Subie, and changed them out, as you can see in the photo below: ... I swear this car wants me to be broke, lol. ... I thought the same about my Wife's car, however, after many repairs, time, patience (and Money), it is running Flawlessly and is Reliable. ... gonna have to skip out on the beer ... I knew it, I was just kidding. Don't forget to charge your Camera and shoot some photos of the process, to share with us. Also Don't forget to buy the Gaskets for the intake Manifold. Good Luck, Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 You'll need Millimetric ones of the Best Quality you can find, I always use the ones that are inox / rust proof, regarding the measurements: as I am not sure, I'll avoid to write them, but you shall not need to change 'em all, only the worn ones; I found some worn bolts that holds the intake manifold on my Subie, and changed them out, as you can see in the photo below: I thought the same about my Wife's car, however, after many repairs, time, patience (and Money), it is running Flawlessly and is Reliable. I knew it, I was just kidding. Don't forget to charge your Camera and shoot some photos of the process, to share with us. Also Don't forget to buy the Gaskets for the intake Manifold. Good Luck, Kind Regards. WOW! Shiny! Thanks for the tip! I never would have though about the bolts. Haha I knew you were kidding. I thought it was hilarious! Yep and Yep. I will be taking pics of the process and I ordered the intake manifold gaskets on Monday. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 so I have the heads off and am currently in process of cleaning everything and I found something interesting. For some reason I have no valve stem seals on my intake valves, only on my exhaust valves. Is this the way it is supposed to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Not real easy to see under the springs. Ive never touched them but I think they are supposed to be the other way around. Intake (outer) valves get the seals exhaust (inner) dont. (I) (e) (e) (i) if that helps. Glad the project is moving along. Did you find an obvious gasket failure spot on the head or block surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 There should be seals on all of the valves. The Fel Pro kits come with intake and exhaust seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 There should be seals on all of the valves. The Fel Pro kits come with intake and exhaust seals. Cant speak for the EA82 and I may have sets of 8 left from the kits but Im pretty sure Ive noticed what I described above more than once. If I get a chance tomorrow Ill check some of my extra heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 I should have noted that, yes, I'm referring to EA82s. Always seals on all valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) so I have the heads off and am currently in process of cleaning everything and I found something interesting. For some reason I have no valve stem seals on my intake valves, only on my exhaust valves. Is this the way it is supposed to be? It should be the other way around on an EA81 [as described earlier by ihscout54]. Valve stem seals on the intake valves but not on the exhaust valves. Don't mean to question you, but are you sure you are looking at them correctly? Exhaust valves in the middle of the head, intakes on the ends. RE: post #61: Not sure if you removed your engine to remove the heads, but I always recommend removing the radiator before removing a Subaru engine. Edited October 24, 2015 by ferox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 yeah sorry I had that backwards. So thanks to your answers I figured that out but now I have a new issue. I got my heads back on and got everything reassembled and now my car is acting like it has no compression. A friend who is heloping me says that the valves are "stuck open". it is really just wining and does not sound like it wants to start at all. So this is my question and it might be a stupid one. Do each of the heads have their own rocker arms? eg. the right side rocker arm will only work on the right side valves and vice versa? Because I think I may have accidentally switched my rocker arms and I was wondering if that is what could make my car do that. Is there anything else that could cause my car to do this if that is not the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) The rocker assys are marked for oreintation, but the engine will run fine with them swapped. I bet your valve adjustments are off. You didn't end up with a couple pushrods left over did you? Ide go through the adjustment procedure again. If your way off it will crank pretty funny, Edited October 25, 2015 by ihscout54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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