Kristina Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Okay, so my '83 GL Automatic Turbo wagon is stuck in test mode with the codes flashing constantly. The problem is: where the heck are my test connectors? We just pulled the cruise control, but the test connector wouldn't be wired through the cruise control computer, right? Here is what is left under the dash (the green connector is wired to the fuel pump): And here is what was pulled in relation to the cruise control: We are pretty stumped so any help is greatly appreciated. Also: I have the 83' FSM (and the Haynes manual, and the Chiltons) but the 84' has the turbo stuff. Does anyone have scans of the wiring diagrams they'd like to share? Or even pictures of another car's under-dash wiring that I could use for reference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 It is the green one.Unplug it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristina Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 It is the green one.Unplug it. Right. Tried that and all it does is shut the fuel pump off with codes still flashing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 What codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristina Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Codes 11, 12, and 33. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Codes will show w/trouble is present whether the test connector is connected or not. 11 is normal w/stopped engine.Pretty sure 12 is too. 33 is not.It indicates a faulty coolant temperature sender or associated wiring. Green connector is not connected to the fuel pump,only the ECU. Pump should cycle off/on w/connected. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristina Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) So now I understand that the green connector *should* be for test mode but when I unplug it the fuel pump stops. The fuel pump is quite loud and cycles every few seconds, so it is pretty obvious that it stops. I know it's normal for those first two codes to pop when the engine is stopped, but what about when it's running? From what I've read if the car is driven in test mode it will default to a *safe* limp mode. Is this accurate? Edited September 30, 2015 by Kristina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-tombba- Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 So now I understand that the green connector *should* be for test mode but when I unplug it the fuel pump stops. The fuel pump is quite loud and cycles every few seconds, so it is pretty obvious that it stops. I know it's normal for those first two codes to pop when the engine is stopped, but what about when it's running? From what I've read if the car is driven in test mode it will default to a *safe* limp mode. Is this accurate? Test mode sets fuel pump to run continuously. Normally it just runs ones when you turn ignition on and after that runs in cycles and is controlled by the ECU. It is normal that the fuel pump runs in continuous cycles when the test connector is plugged but not normal if it runs like that when the green connector isn't connected. Basicly you shold not hear the pump alot after the first key turn to ign on position. You can test it by unplugging the green connector and it should still run normally. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristina Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Test mode sets fuel pump to run continuously. Normally it just runs ones when you turn ignition on and after that runs in cycles and is controlled by the ECU. It is normal that the fuel pump runs in continuous cycles when the test connector is plugged but not normal if it runs like that when the green connector isn't connected. Basicly you shold not hear the pump alot after the first key turn to ign on position. You can test it by unplugging the green connector and it should still run normally. Ah-ha! That is the piece I am missing, that the pump should not be running continuously. I was looking at it backwards, as if the constant sound of the pump was good/normal, and unplugging the green connector was cutting power to it some how and therefore bad. Thanks for clearing that up. This car has an interesting electrical past so it's been kind of a pain trying to figure out and learn what is what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Fuel pump is supposed to stop w/test connector unplugged and engine stopped. Are you saying car won`t run w/o connector connected? There should be no codes w/engine running. The ECU lamp will flicker in response to the O2 sensor voltage though. I do not think EA-81T ECUs have a safe mode I have not tested that to be 100% sure. They only control fuel(not spark). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristina Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) Fuel pump is supposed to stop w/test connector unplugged and engine stopped. Are you saying car won`t run w/o connector connected? There should be no codes w/engine running. The ECU lamp will flicker in response to the O2 sensor voltage though. I do not think EA-81T ECUs have a safe mode I have not tested that to be 100% sure. They only control fuel(not spark). I just ran it for about five minutes with the connector unplugged so good there. RPMs were a bit sporadic, but who knows how long it had been driven with the test plug connected before I got it, so maybe the ECU is just trying to figure stuff out. It is definitely flashing codes, not just flickering, with the engine running. I don't know whether this is relevant or not but I did notice that the dash ECS light flickered sporadically (it never had previously, at least not that I noticed). At the moment the ECU isn't bolted down, it's just kind of resting on the floor. Handling it would sometimes affect the dash light and sometimes not, but not the code flashing. Edited to add: Before work I jiggled the plugs that go into the ECU one at a time until something changed, then did it a few more times to confirm. Something is definitely loose, throwing the computer into and out of test mode sporadically. Edited September 30, 2015 by Kristina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth1948 Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 I assume the '84 has the OBD I check engine codes and you can't get them to stop! I have a 90 - 91 with OBD I. I need to read the code(s) but I can't find the connector to disconnect. Naru says, "definately the green one, unplug it" Should I be looking for a green connector on mine? Any help is much appreciated. John, aka Kenneth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 I assume the '84 has the OBD I check engine codes and you can't get them to stop! I have a 90 - 91 with OBD I. I need to read the code(s) but I can't find the connector to disconnect. Naru says, "definately the green one, unplug it" Should I be looking for a green connector on mine? Any help is much appreciated. John, aka Kenneth Your year is different. Read historic codes by connecting the black "read memory" connectors. Green test mode connector must be disconnected. Both green and black should be disconnected for normal operation. They are located under the steering wheel or in the engine compartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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