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XT6 rear hubs EOI in 5x100 & 5x114.3 ?


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If Toonga's design came from C...........d Performance, then I can see where the discrepancy came from. I had a pair of hubs from him, and was told that they were the same as the XT6. Except they weren't in the measurement I've mentioned (which I complained about). I sold those hubs, so I have no reference now.

A mate has an XT6 and also a pair of XT6 rear hubs, and they looked different to the aftermarket ones.

 

When you get the Brumby back, please check how far the locater protrudes from the face of the brake rotor. I'll try to get a measurement off my mate, but he's moving house at the moment, so they're probably packed up somewhere.

Maybe someone else on here can contribute?

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Locator on 4x140 hubs is different to later ones on the 5x100 XT6 :

 

100D1422.jpg

Taken from here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141357-rear-disc-brake-difference-2wd-vs-4wd/

 

PICT3494.JPG

 

Another view :

 

5lugfacts035.jpg

From here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/80065-alternative-5-lug-recipe-in-the-works/

 

 

Also the cross bred one is different again ...

Picture_248sm.JPG

( Found on google ... ) Add Note : They no longer produce this kit, but there are second hand ones to be had ... :huh:

 

Note :  The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ...

 

Ciao, Bantum ...

 

 

 




 


 

Edited by Bantum
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Wow they make a kit in the rear where was all this two years ago lol lol.. O well don't need it now..

 

 

 

I just realized the only way to run 5x114.3 would be to put on brembos STi brakes or find the "special" Jdm rotors in 5x114.3 for the 4pot 2 pot

 

I just want better wheels selection and this swap is going to get costly real quick

 

 

I'll have to think about it more..

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Nico, these suited only the floating rear calipers (although if you got the relevant backing plate from the fixed calipers, they would go on). The biggest problem we had with this kit is that he was trying to get ADR approval of some such & trying to sell the kit as a whole. Because most of us have other mods that needed engineering approval, this was an extra cost that wasn't necessary.

Most who wanted it, only wanted the rear hubs & the adaptor to hold on the backing plate. Also, the full kit was meant to fit both MY & L models, including the rear rubber brake lines. Which were useless if you already had rear discs, because the lines are different...

 

IMHO, there was also a problem with the wheel locater being nowhere near long enough.

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>Note : The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ...

 

As the sample had the splines chewed out I cut down a MY rear drum with good splines and the manufacturer is using that for accuracy (and confirming the hardness, which is listed as 28-32 HRc and I have confirmed with an ex-GM design engineer that this is a hardness they would use in their designs).

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Wow they make a kit in the rear where was all this two years ago lol lol.. O well don't need it now..

 

 

 

I just realized the only way to run 5x114.3 would be to put on brembos STi brakes or find the "special" Jdm rotors in 5x114.3 for the 4pot 2 pot

 

I just want better wheels selection and this swap is going to get costly real quick

 

 

I'll have to think about it more..

 

AFAIK, that was only a 5x100 kit that crossbred made.

 

 

You could easily redrill the 2-pot rotors....

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm heading back to Taiwan in about 2 weeks to get the samples. I ordered some Dorman 610-402 studs (2 sets) which should hopefully arrive before I fly over there, so I can confirm they will be the correct size.

 

i'll then be pulling down my Brumby to compare against the original XT6 hubs, given the info from wagonist on the difference between the Crossbred and the OEM designs. I'll run the samples while the drawings are updated with the OEM hubs, and then be ready for volume manufacture.

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Pic of XT6 hub with measurement (sorry, I've lost my vernier calipers).

 

As you can see, the measurement for the wheel locator, which sticks out from the brake rotor locator) is at least 5mm

post-8410-0-61915400-1456887613_thumb.jpg

Edited by wagonist
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No, the thread holes are on the brake disc itself, not on the hub. You wind the bolt into the rotor & it pushes against the hub to wind itself off.

The threaded holes in the XT6 hubs don't line up with those on the EJ rotors.

 

I'm not sure if the XT6 rear rotors are held on with screws to the hub. My mate's XT6 is currently in at the panel shop getting a respray to go check. But I do know that the ABS ring uses the other 5 holes (JDM had ABS as an option, USDM didn't). But, basically, don't need them, nor the 5 extra holes for the ABS. Tone wheel & sensor don't fit in there with the handbrake mech.

Edited by wagonist
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So how do you access these holes?

When the hub is on the car, the brake rotor (which has it's own holes, I used them to pull the rotors off my mate's car) is on the outside in the way, and if you pull the hubs off complete with rotors, the ABS tone wheel is on the inside in the way.

The only hubs I've seen (my Elantra has them) with threaded holes is where a locating screw is used to hold the rotor to the hub.

 

IMHO, it's just extra unnecessary work that would add cost, ditto the ABS holes.

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Yep, there are 5 countersunk holes in the hub that I assume are for an ABS tone ring (I've never actually seen one....). There are also 2 smaller threaded holes in the hub, these had screws that hold the rotor to the hub. You can see a piece of the screw in one of them in this picture, because I had to drill them out to get the rotor off:

PICT3494.JPG

 

Those line up with the countersunk holes in the rotor:

5_BD125044_1.jpg

 

The Rotor also has 2 threaded holes that do not require any provision in the hub, these are there to assist in the removal of the rotor from the hub.

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Well there ya go, mystery solved ... :P

Them 5 holes in hub would be for park assist then ? :

 

DSC09882_zps8747237c.jpg


Looks like the outer countersunk holes on disc are only there to hold it in place - So a nice to have item on hub, but only if you want them ?

 

F%20All%20There.jpg

 

+ one more showing how its done ...

maxresdefault.jpg

 



Ciao, Bantum ...

Edited by Bantum
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Considering we're doing this to fit an EJ rotor onto the earlier cars, and the EJ rotor isn't located by screws, any point making those threaded holes?

 

And like I said earlier, the ABS sensor sits underneath the hub on an XT6, right where the handbrake cable comes in on an EJ backing plate, so I'd probably suggest not bothering about those either?

Might want to double check whether ABS was offered on US spec XT6s, but I've heard it wasn't.

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Hey guys, If this goes ahead, I am super keen and definitely count me in for at least one set, possibly two. (Dependant on if the price blows way out of my affordability range)

My swap has pretty much ground to a halt due to being unable to get the rear end sorted out.

One question though, using the MY Spline means that I'd still have to run Hybrid Liberty Inner/ Brumby Outer CVs, right?

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Hi guys, I am in Taiwan now and should have the first two samples (finally!) this coming Tuesday (with the correct Dormer studs fitted). I'll then be back in Australia the following week and will do a like-for-like comparison with the XT6 hubs on my Brumby. Second samples will have the corrections made as identified earlier in this thread. 

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Hey guys, If this goes ahead, I am super keen and definitely count me in for at least one set, possibly two. (Dependant on if the price blows way out of my affordability range)

 

My swap has pretty much ground to a halt due to being unable to get the rear end sorted out.

 

One question though, using the MY Spline means that I'd still have to run Hybrid Liberty Inner/ Brumby Outer CVs, right?

Your mean for the front end or the rear?

These hubs would replace the rear ones onto your existings shafts. No need to modify the rear end drivetrain.

The front however is a different story as you need to change the steering knuckle and everything attached (strut, driveshaft, lower ball joint) to EJ stuff.

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The fronts are very easy to modify though all you need is Xt6 control arms or modify your control arms to fit a bigger impreza ball joint, 5x100 hubs, impreza axles and impreza stuts and it bolts right up just by enlarging the holes in the strut towers and the actual cross member. With this option you are free to upgrade to larger calipers in the front off any 5x100 as long as you use the right rotors as well. The backs are a pain because the only way to do it properly is to use XT6 hubs  which cost a lot of money and are hard to find. 

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