dfoyl Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 Picture time... First "problem" is the hole size for the studs is a copy of the Crossbred, which used a stock Liberty stud instead of the correct XT6 stud. Which is bigger by about 0.2mm. So my Dorman studs rattle around. I'm starting to think it may be better to use the heavier studs after all, as there is still plenty of material and Subaru obviously increased the stud size for a reason (heavier vehicle)...there is also the probability that XT6 studs won't be available forever as I am probably about the only person who has ordered them in a few years... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANIM_Hooneru Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Your mean for the front end or the rear? These hubs would replace the rear ones onto your existings shafts. No need to modify the rear end drivetrain. The front however is a different story as you need to change the steering knuckle and everything attached (strut, driveshaft, lower ball joint) to EJ stuff. Na Wagonist i'm referring to the rear end... My front end is already setup is full Liberty gear, using a Liberty ball joint in my MY LCAs + Coilovers... All i've got in the back end at the moment is a Liberty Diff and a shortened driveshaft to the front... Whatever road this goes down, I at least want *one* set...Was just querying as in my memory the Liberty Hub Spline was different to old MY hub splines...meaning in my situation I would need to run a hybrid CV (Liberty inner, MY Outer) if my memory was right. Anyway Dfoyl, that looks really good. Mark me down for a pair of the finished product regardless of what spline they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Those are really sexy and yea just have the whole made for arp studs way better option and worth the money. What exact material is that machined out of because if its regular steel why not just weld the studs in place. Put a few tacs on them to hold them in place and the lug nuts will keep them in place anyways so I am sure that would be a permanent solution. Also notice how i said tacs so u can still break the welds and put new ones in if you OEM ones that are actually pretty easy to break if over tightened and or stripped. That looks really nice though how much did that cost? I am obviously interested even though I already have Xt6s hubs in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 (edited) Looking good, got any plans to Gold Zinc Plate them ? Will need to see some installed pic's ... Ciao, Bantum ... Edited March 16, 2016 by Bantum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 ANIM_Hooneru, As L series rear disc brakes bolt onto an MY, the spline count is the same. These hubs that are being done up aren't Liberty stuff, they're XT6, which has the same spline as the L series, and therefore MY. And so these just fit directly onto the existing stub axle inside the trailing arm. dfoyl, how long is the wheel locater, you haven't shown a side on pic? (yes, I'm hung up on this ) And I'd also recommend going with EJ wheel studs. Easier to find for everybody, newer even on wrecks, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Wheel locator will be corrected in V2. Sorry, already packed up so I can't take more photos. I ordered some EJ wheel studs from rockauto.com this morning so they should arrive in AUS early next week with a bit of luck (Dorman 610-401 instead of XT6 Dorman 610-402). Plating - no, I didn't think about gold zinc. OEM didn't have it, so I don't think it's a necessary cost to add. Material - I am not sure, the spec is all in Chinese. I have asked for that info. The hardness is as per the original hub (OEM MY), so it won't bend or break. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Yea sounds like the sweet stuff do you think they will bolt right onto XT6 hubs? Like in these pictures Bolt right into the part pictured above because they would make some great spares for me =) Also yea OEM is pretty tough stuff so I see nothing wrong with that seriously some good stuff going on in this thread. I love shiny metal parts haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Yes, they should be exactly the same as OEM XT6 except for the larger studs. So an XT6 system (rotors, etc) will all bolt up. I would recommend updating to something more modern however, like WRX 2-pots (that's what I have done) (need to change the backing plate) or a H6 Outback (290mm rotor size) (need to trim the backing plate or change). Any EJ (except WRX STi 05+ & Tribeca) rotors will fit - I initially fitted the smallest Subaru rear disc rotor, which is 266mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Wow thanks for the info I am using 11.5 inch rotor up front with forester calipers I was wondering what to do with the rear. Its a shame 2 pot wrx Calipers are so expensive. Will they clear 16 inch 2002 wrx wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 With the h6 rear brake setup the minimum wheel size is 16", there are some gravel spec 15's that will clear. But your wrx wheels will be perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 (edited) With the h6 rear brake setup the minimum wheel size is 16", there are some gravel spec 15's that will clear. But your wrx wheels will be perfectly fine. This is a myth. Here's my wife's '03 Outback with '98 Outback 15" wheels on it: Which has the 296mm front brakes and 290mm rear (commonly called H6, but was put on all Outbacks mid-year 2002). I had to grind the front calipers a bit, but the rears fit just fine. The 2-pot, vented 290mm '06-'07 WRX rear brakes will also fit under stock 15s. However, the matching 296mm 4-pot fronts will hit the spokes on OE 16x6.5" wheels (I have not tried grinding them, although I just got my hands on a pair needing a rebuild....). Edited March 22, 2016 by Numbchux 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausmattw Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 This is getting really exciting........ I am absolutely in for a pair. I absolutely agree with sticking to the far more common standard EJ size studs. So the burning question for me is..... what is the understanding on how the various EJ wheels will fit to an early series (MY or Brumby/BRAT)? From memory wheels from the EJ vehicles have a highly positive offset in the order of +40mm / +50mm. So is there going to be issues with fitting them? Is there need for spacer plates to push the wheels out by 20mm or so (ignoring the legality question)? Is this only going to be a problem on the rear? I'm assuming those with experience or interest in these conversion options, and the x-bread kits, will have the answer to hand. Awesome work so far Mr Foyle. Cheers, Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Got a better price estimate now you've got samples? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 (edited) Newer higher off set wheels fit actually pretty nice on our older Subaru's. If you lower the ride height they fit pretty snug I wish they had a lower offset to bring them out to our fenders/ my fenders more Also +1 for the lug nuts comment. They should bolt right up you can flip the trailing arm over onto the other side to make it clear the actual tire on the inside. I dont think spacers are really needed it would deff help with "hella flush fitment" though lol. Edited March 23, 2016 by D3F0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 L-series will be fine, MY's have a lower positive offset and need about +25mm. So yes, late-model Subaru / Toyota / smaller VW / smaller Audi wheels will need either a spacer or after-market wheels or find something uncommon (like I did, with 1st gen Audi TT on a +31mm offset). Hence my original question on using 5x 114.3, as the offsets available on 114.5 (Nissan PCD) are wider than 5x100 PCD. That said, factory MY wheels sit pretty far in compared to modern cars, so you don't need to run spacers (I ran early WRX alloys with no problems at all). And if you are going wider than stock, then the change in offset is countered by the additional width of the wheel. Price I have only ex-factory at this stage. I am likely going to offer them through SJR for US market so freight costs are consolidated (shipping them individually from TW to the US would cost as much in postage as the hubs would cost to be made). For Australia/NZ I can get them freighted in quite cheaply and would be around $100 US delivered each (depending on duty, currency fluctuations, end location (eg. NZ, NT, WA would be more than east coast Australia), etc). (If someone in AUS wants a set of spacers to give the correct offset using late-model Subaru OEM alloys, I have some practically new ones available (used only for testing)). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 (edited) I found an MY rear arm and did a trial fit on the axle (can't do much else until the new studs arrive)... Edited March 27, 2016 by dfoyl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 They look great really good in fact. any news on price and availability? TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 Not yet Jules, but you will get a special price as the supplier of the sample (if you're interested)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Not yet Jules, but you will get a special price as the supplier of the sample (if you're interested)... Yes I'm interested not sure what I will need to sell to afford them but hey TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nico Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 ok this looks good any way to make them 5x114 subaru ? & 5x100 together ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Hi Nico, I have thought about that option but feedback earlier in this thread was it wouldn't fit as the OD would need to become bigger. So at this stage I am planning 5x100 PCD only. I received my new studs from Rockauto on Friday, and switched out one original XT6 hub. Here are the differences between the XT6 and the Crossbred copy : Obviously, some of the changes don't make any difference (eg. first photo with the ABS ring holes are not required). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 It seems like Subaru simply made it square back in the day instead of radiusing corners. Easier tooling I imagine. I like the thicker waisted area behind where it sits up against the seal. Less chance of gunk getting in. Did the original copy have a chamfer on the end of the splines? It's been a while since I sold mine, so I can't remember. Chamfer is there for ease of mating up the splines when fitting the part. Maybe more criticial when being done by a machine than by hand. Might need to keep an eye on that one. no loss in deleting the other holes in the hub face. Almost impossible to retrofit the ABS, and the EJ rotors don't need the locating screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 I believe the original (Crossbred) copy didn't have the chamfer. I'd prefer to keep it without the chamfer as it means more thread on the axle which is more strength. I had no issues fitting the hub to two original (well-used) MY hubs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpybrumby Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Please add another West Australian to the list of buyers! At $100 US I'd be mad not to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Just as a general update, the drawings have been revised and a second pair are being made (hopefully this week). I am pushing to have them validated by the middle of May and then put up a group buy here and on AUSubaru. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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