jmoss5723 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I'm looking at replacing the automatic transmission in my dad's 2003 outback wagon because of growling front differential bearings. A 2001 outback wagon with 200,000 miles popped up locally for $500 with a broken timing belt. Would it be stupid to buy it and use the tranny as the donor then scrap the rest? In the short term it is by far the cheapest option, but I'm wondering how much life to expect from a 200k mile 4eat transmission. All advice is welcome! Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I'd say it all depends on how well its been taken care of. If the car is in good shape and looks like its been well mainteneced I would say it would probably be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 You don't want a 99-01 transmission, they have an issue with the seals, lose pressure, and stop going into gear. Mileage aside, you want an 02+ transmission. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 up to 2003 it's a straight swap, for 2004 you need to swap some components inside the extension housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 You don't want a 99-01 transmission, they have an issue with the seals, lose pressure, and stop going into gear. Mileage aside, you want an 02+ transmission. Is the problem with internal or external seals? In other words, could I tell by looking if this thing is leaking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Is the problem with internal or external seals? In other words, could I tell by looking if this thing is leaking? No, I think it's the seal around the reverse actuator rod. Either way, it's an internal issue that happens to all 99-01 automatic transmissions. They start out slowly engaging into gear, then usually lose reverse followed by not going into drive. I would avoid that year range. A friend of mine used to work at an indy repair shop and said they really aren't hard to rebuild, but I've never actually fixed one so I can't comment there. Edited November 3, 2015 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 No, I think it's the seal around the reverse actuator rod. Either way, it's an internal issue that happens to all 99-01 automatic transmissions. They start out slowly engaging into gear, then usually lose reverse followed by not going into drive. I would avoid that year range. A friend of mine used to work at an indy repair shop and said they really aren't hard to rebuild, but I've never actually fixed one so I can't comment there. I'm still considering gambling it. I might actually swap the motor fromteh current car into the one that would be the donor. If it is straight and less rusty than what we've got. The other option is $375 for a tranny from a 2002 at the JY with a 60 day warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 You can get a transmission that isn't from the plagued year range, with a 60 day warranty for LESS money..... and you're considering buying a car with 200k that has a tranny from the plagued year range for double scrap value... That one is one you, good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Well I'd get the tranny, tires, and whatever spares I can pull off for $500, then scrap the car for $200. That's $300 for all of that instead of $375 for just a tranny. And there is still the possibility of getting a nicer shell than the car we have now which is starting to get pretty crusty... It isn't a totally black and white decision. I'm debating with myself still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Looks like its going to be the JY transmission. Went and looked at the craigslist car and it looks like it hasn't been super well cared for and the tranny was looking a little wet. Thanks for the input, everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I don't see the delayed engagement into drive as a big deal. I get that it might scare some people, but there's like a multi- year thread of peopel that have fixed it for $5 and 5 minutes on this forum - so it's far from a scary transmission to avoid as a rule. Just read that thread and be educated or prepared if you start to see symptoms I wouldn't be terribly scared of a 200,000 mile 4EAT. check the fluid and overall condition. If I wanted another few years 50,000 miles out of my daily driver - i'd go for it. If it was going in a car I wanted to keep for 200,000 more miles, then I'd probably pass and get a lower mileage unit. if it's got clean fluid, seems reasonably maintained, and egine recnetly kaboomed on them - i'd run it. if it's been sitting in a farm field for 5 years, fluid is burnt, and the owner can't find his girl friends brother to get the title off of it...i'd probably pass or be very discerning. once you're done scavenging it I might need a piece of frame rail cut out for the captive nuts that ripped out of mine....let me know! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 ah, posting at the same time. JY trans is nice, already pulled and ready to go. if you wanted the scrap car for additional parts - you could also swap the front differentials and keep your known good transmission. swap everything to retain all the clearances/settings. a guy on this forum did it to a forester with success. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 I don't see the delayed engagement into drive as a big deal. I get that it might scare some people, but there's like a multi- year thread of peopel that have fixed it for $5 and 5 minutes on this forum - so it's far from a scary transmission to avoid as a rule. Just read that thread and be educated or prepared if you start to see symptoms I'd like to hear more about that for my wife's OBW. Can you link me to the thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Does anyone know where I can find a walk-through/how-to write up for removal and replacement of the transmission? I tried to search for one, but I've had no luck. I'm inclined to think that I crawl under there and just figure it out, but I think I ought to do a little homework first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 There must be one here or on subaruoutback.org. It's not too difficult, lots of stuff to disconnect, engine needs to be supported, trans needs the car pretty high to fit out from under (really high if you use a trans jack!), don't lift by the trans pan, make sure converter slides back from the engine, make sure the converter STAYS all the way back, for a donor trans make sure converter is all the way back or is seated, with engine and trans mated converter should not be touching the flexplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Really high like 8inch ramps, or higher than that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 it's really annoying working under the car - you'll hate it if you like staying clean, proper, and have bad knees, back, crawling, leaning over aren't your style and get rust and dirt in your eyes. other than that - the trans can come out really quick that way if rusty exhaust doesn't hose you. remove exhaust, ATF hoses, rear driveshaft, axles, engine to trans bolt/dogbone, TC bolts, disconnect trans wiring connector. tilt engine/trans back, unbolt trans and out it comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 8" seems low - bellhousings are taller than that and you'll need to get it out from under the car. could maybe drop it - then jack with floor jack to get trans out and new one slid under - then back to the ramps for install. but 8" seems low. Would it be wonky pulling the axles up on ramps? I think i pulled a transmission once without removing the axles or loosening the steering knuckle bolts to allow more room. Just knocked the pins out and tried to push trans around to get them to slide off the stubs - it was a pain the backside on a 2003 H6 automatic i did - axles kept hanging up, wouldn't come off without the perfect angle - back but not too far, left/right but not too far, then once removed - catching on stuff, and had to wiggle trans left and right. i wouldn't likely try it again but it can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I have a 99 OBW with the delayed forward engagement into Drive problem, so I have read a lot about the issue. In my opinion the problem only affects 99 and 00 model Subarus, and I think only the Legacy model. So, I don't think the 01 would have any delay problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 8" seems low - bellhousings are taller than that and you'll need to get it out from under the car. could maybe drop it - then jack with floor jack to get trans out and new one slid under - then back to the ramps for install. but 8" seems low. Would it be wonky pulling the axles up on ramps? I think i pulled a transmission once without removing the axles or loosening the steering knuckle bolts to allow more room. Just knocked the pins out and tried to push trans around to get them to slide off the stubs - it was a pain the backside on a 2003 H6 automatic i did - axles kept hanging up, wouldn't come off without the perfect angle - back but not too far, left/right but not too far, then once removed - catching on stuff, and had to wiggle trans left and right. i wouldn't likely try it again but it can be done. I was thinking I'd pull the back wheels onto ramps and jack the front until it was level. I would think things could definitely get wonky with the axles pulled and the front wheels on ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Ah, got it. That's 8" plus whatever clearance the car already has - good working room. Do you think you'll use a floor jack or engine lift to hold it and lower it (and lift the new one back in)? They're awkward, unstable and hard to work with under a car. If the trans is on a floor jack then total height is floor jack + transmission bellhousing and the trans won't roll off the jack because of the trans tunnel. If you have an engine lift you can snake a chain through the engine bay to the trans to hold it's weight and use that to lower it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 I was planning on using a floor jack. I do have a chain hoist in the ceiling in my dad's garage that I could use, though. Do you think that is the better route to go? If clearance is going to be an issue with the jack, I can always put the car up higher. I have some big stout timbers that are about 6x8x24 that I can put under jack stands to get even higher. I'd do it like in my crappy little diagram below, where the 'A' is the jack stand and the boxes are 2 timbers side-by-side. A [ ][ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I'd nail the timbers together... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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