Dieseling After Weber swap

[The Scooby]

ok now that i got my car running like it should, not blowing steam out the exhaust or overheating, when it gets warmed up, and i shut it off it diesels, can someone please send me a link, or tell me out to properly tune the idle and timing so it wont do this.

 

Thanks,

Shean

 

PS, i just want to get the weber witht he bigger venturies compared to the DFV series, but this car still kicks arse.

[GeneralDisorder]

You can't. At least I have never been able to totally eliminate it. Mine still does it on occasion - mostly in warm weather. Properly adjusting the timing and the idle mixture and speed are the key. 10-12 degrees, and an idle of 750 or so seem to reduce it quite a bit. Make sure you make ALL adjustments to the carb with the engine fully warmed and the choke pulled off.

 

The reason I say you can't eliminate it, is simply because Subaru didn't either. The Hitachi has an anti-deisel solenoid, and the weber's have this option as well - at least the DGV's do. They cost about $20 or so. You can reduce it with proper adjustment tho.

 

GD

[Svengouli7]

tri[ple check your linkage. Make sure the valves are closing fully when off the throttle. Make sure you have a goods return spring set up?

[snowstormer]

if after you have tried everything, and it still diesels, then you can use the backwoods anti diesel method:

 

at the instant you turn off the car , have your foot on the brake hard and the car in first gear, then let out the clutch- stops dieseling every time.

[Snowman]

I've made a couple of observations on this topic while owning a weberized subaru that has had three, that's right, three (grrrr....) engines in it during the past year.

 

The first thing you should do after getting all the adjustments perfect is run a bottle or two of some good fuel system cleaner through it. At the same time, use the trick of pouring about a cup of water down the intake a little at a time to "steam clean" the combustion chambers. The reason for doing this is that a hot chunk of carbon can provide an ignition source after the plugs cease to fire. Unless your engine has been torn down recently, it probably has some carbon in there. I noticed that the bit of dieseling I had with my old engine all but disappeared when I swapped in an engine that had just been assembled. Those two things should help.

 

The other thing that had resulted in a dramatic reduction in dieseling is switching to a set of spark plugs that are one heat range colder than the factory plugs. While my old engine was in, I tried that, and the dieseling was reduced dramatically, since there is less tendency for the spark plug to turn into a glow plug. Although I had no problems with this, you might be wary of plug fouling if you take this step.

 

Good luck.

[The Scooby]

if after you have tried everything, and it still diesels, then you can use the backwoods anti diesel method:

 

at the instant you turn off the car , have your foot on the brake hard and the car in first gear, then let out the clutch- stops dieseling every time.

yepers, thats what ive been doing all day today, i drove to work no problems except the lack of power it has, but i thank god that i was smart enough to put in a vacume gauge, which i leanred that i have a BUNCH of vacume leaks now, that i have to track down.

 

outside under the hood again i go...

Later,

Shean