swap...or no swap?

[jdgmbi1]

so my valve cover gasket or head gasket is pooped on my 1984 subie gl. on a cold start my oil will go up to 75 psi then 10-15 min later it will go down to 5 or 0 psi at idle but when i move it will only go to 25 psi max! i also have a crap ton of crank case pressure, so much in fact i could probably fill a small air compressor. Any ways what would be cheaper get an ej22 swap or try to fix the problem. i already looked at the pcv valve and it was not clogged. keep in mind that this ea81 engine has only 125,451 miles on it i think, i know it has 125k. Also keep in mind that i am a 17 year old teenager and i have a budget obviously...

 

please tell me your thought or comments, especially money related. or what i can do in general....i really don't want to sell it because it was my dads very first car he ever bought like i said before and i want to be able to keep this little dream boat running

 

 

thanks in advance you guys have been a big help!!

Edited November 10, 2015 by jdgmbi1

[987687]

First off, ea82 oil pressure gauges are really inaccurate and shouldn't be used for anything other than "it has oil pressure". So for any useful readings there, install a good aftermarket gauge.

You really shouldn't have that much crankcase pressure, you probably have a clogged PCV, the crankcase vent thingy, you have an ea81 in that car so it's on the back of the intake manifold right in the middle.

 

The ea81 with 125k miles should run for another 100k miles if taken care of, I say do the headgaskets on it. They're an easy, forgiving engine to work on and you'll learn a lot about cars.

[MR_Loyale]

Does it run?  Just drive it. 

[machthree2]

If it has never been done, do oil pump reseal. Take out the radiator and belt,  oil and 4 bolts. I used a impact screw driver to take the pump apart. Important: To remove the oil pump take out 4 bolts and leave the oil filter on. TAKE a plastic hammer and while twisting (grab the filter for leverage) tap the pump to rotate it. You must break the rubber o rings first before trying to pull straight out. 

I broke mine off in the block trying to pry it out. Took a week and special puller to get the pieces out. Mine went from under 22 - 75 psi once I repaired it . 

[jdgmbi1]

okay thanks, Its not the pcv valve because i took it off this weekend and it was fine. we had the oil seal redone towards the end of last year. so i don't know if thats it. i don't think its the oil gauge, plus the engine is a ea81 not an ea82 so will the oil gauge problem still pertain to this situation? I'm just worried because people have been saying that its just going to constantly have problems...which it basically has. Another thing is all my hoses are starting to get dry because of sitting in my grand parents garage for 8 years...so wouldn't i just be spending as much money as an engine swap would cost?.....i also took the tube of the valve cover and shined some light down the hole and there was black chunks of oil just at the beginning of the hole!! and further down it was pitch black oil.

 

if its going to be cheaper to keep it and do all this stuff then thats cool, but i need a daily driver and still have fun in it, If you know what i mean. but if there are other engines that i can fit in there and they are more reliable and i can do it for a fair price and  still have money left over then that would be sweet too!!

Edited November 9, 2015 by jdgmbi1

[machthree2]

Oil pressure sending unit (under oil pump) is sometimes unreliable as well, but have a mechanic use a oil pressure gauge is better. I was referring to the entire oil pump (multiple gaskets and O rings)

My Oil pump exhibited identical PSI readings before I rebuilt mine?

 

The EA81 is solid and reliable motor, if you know how to clean and maintain a carb. No timing belts.

My friend put in a EA82 motor and 5 speed in his and it rocks, but still carbed. One can maybe do the SPFI model and be off to the races. Might as well do the 2.2 EJ swap if going that direction? If you haven't done an EJ conversion, be prepared for a lot of work... but it is an rewarding once it's done, if done right.

 

I would invest in a Haynes or other manual. It has some good info on how to use a vacuum gauge, and what that reveals. Also a shop can do a compression and or leak down test. This will tell you valves, valve guides, rings, etc. You may just have dry and hard valve guides? Would need heads rebuilt. 

 

Valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy .  Rock Auto   Head Gasket would probably allow an oil burn (smoke) or exhaust noise, or water in the oil. 

[joe5]

To address your question about cost, the ej swap is feasible and pretty well documented but don't underestimate that it is still a very involved and costly process, especially for a beginner. It also will cost more than people tend to discuss. As far as dollar for dollar goes, you could replace your whole ea81 motor for 1/10 of the price of an ej swap. Unless you get super lucky finding parts for the ej swap, it could easily cost 1k or more. Especially if you need help with the labor (and you likely will, especially with the wiring, redrilling the flywheel, you'll need a custom exhaust so unless you weld you'll need help with that and lots of other little things that can easily add up). It will also take allot of time. It is NOT going to be a "quick fix" to get your subie back on the road. Just scavenging all the parts you'll need will take quite a bit of time unless you buy a whole new gen car to source all your parts. The people that are able to do ej swaps quickly and cheaply usually have lots of experience, the ability to fabricate on the fly when needed, and have access to lots of cheap parts (These guys are usually professional or at least part time mechanics). I don't wanna turn you off the ej swap, I did it and loved it. But it is an in depth project with costs. 

 

I'd say the best place to start is replacing hoses (PCV) specifically. Your ea81 can be just as reliable as the newer ej motors if you can take good care of it. 

 

If your pumped about the ej swap, still just fix or replace your ea81. As time goes on, keep your eyes open for good CL deals for motors, wiring harnessess, exhausts, adapter plates etc. Once you accumulate all the parts, then you can dive in to an ej swap down the road. Just my 2 cents.

[987687]

I thought all 84's had the ea81... And yes, the ea82 has a terrible oil pressure gauge, too. Mine always read consistently the same values for the same conditions, but when checked with an actual gauge it read on some sort of log scale or something completely random and useless. Ie. inaccurate garbage.

[DaveT]

Does it burn lots of oil? Does the coolant level constantly drop so you have to add more to keep it full?

 

From the op, it does not sound like headgaskets. Dry hoses? Replace them. Especially the ones in the coolant system. Is it running well?

 

These engines are made to spin fast, don't lug it.

 

Reseal the oil pump.

[jdgmbi1]

so i heard that pcv valve  is spring loaded? is this true? if so that would explain alot!! To answer your question it runs great! It is burning oil i believe because its all black on the dip stick and every time i pull it out for the first time after the engine has been shut off the oil is half way up the stick!!! another thing is that it would leak oil all over the hoses in between the oil cap and alternator, however it only came from one hose and that oil had to pass through the pcv valve to get all the way up. so that tells me that its being pushed by air(correct me if i am wrong), Its not as bad now you barley notice the oil...its just the smell. You can smell oil if you think about it and know that the problem is there...if that makes any sense. the oil pump does have a slight leak and the filter we need to figure out how to once and for all properly seal the o rings and gaskets.

 

ya i already had that coolant hose experience(1 1/2 inch gash and internal gashes), that's actually what made me more concerned than i was before it happened.  I think it might be the gasket or what ever surrounds the pistons, sorry i should know what that is i just cant think of it. All i know is that it wants the bigger psi build up but there is something that is escaping....air... still doesn't explain why there is so much crank case pressure, i could be missing something though. But my guess is as good as any other guys.

Edited November 10, 2015 by jdgmbi1

[hatchsub]

Oil up the dipstick that is black is NOT a sign of burning oil.  Being low on oil and seeing blue smoke out the tail pipe is.  Chances are you are not burning oil at all and just leaking it profusely from all the dried out seals on the motor.  Here is a good list of things to do for that motor if they have not already been done:

 

1.  Get a HTKYSA manual 

2. Reseal the valve cover gaskets, oil pan (and rear main if your really adventurous and its leaking bad enough to warrant)

3.  Replace the oil pump as i said in your last thread.  Its cheap insurance against possible engine problems in the future.  

4.  Throw a new PCV valve in there.  They are 3-4 bucks at the parts store so why not.

5.  Adjust the valves while the covers are off.  They are supposed to be adjusted every 30k miles or so and i bet yours have never been done.  There is a good writeup in the HTKYSA manual on it. 

 

Im going to advise against you doing an EJ swap.  Work on understanding how everything works and getting this motor to run well first and then later down the road when you are more proficient with a wrench you can tackle the EJ.  The EA81 is literally the most bulletproof motor that subaru ever made in my opinion and is a GREAT first time motor for a young guy to work on just starting out.  In fact a EA81 subaru was my first car and I've had three in my lifetime and hopefully more if i can ever find a rust free coupe like yours.    

[DaveT]

+1 This: 

 

" Work on understanding how everything works and getting this motor to
run well first and then later down the road when you are more proficient
with a wrench you can tackle the EJ.  The EA81 is literally the most
bulletproof motor that subaru ever made in my opinion and is a GREAT
first time motor for a young guy to work on just starting out."

[machthree2]

I'm going to try this from my cell.

 

I ran my Loyale without a PCV valve and it was OK

PCV valves do get oily by nature.

Oil levels can change if water is passing head gasket and getting into oil pan.

Also, fuel passing old worn rings can get into oil and thin it causing low pressure

A compession check can test rings.

A fast test is oil change. If pressure stays stable after warm up with fresh oil you have some other liquid thinning oil

[DaveT]

Oil gets all up the dipstick due to the engine running.

Oil gets black due to un burned carbon and dirt.  Change it a few times, on a short interval.  Use 10W-40

Wait for a few others with EA81s to comment, but might be worth using Marvel Mystery oil to clean things out.

 

PCV valve has a spring in the engines I know of.

 

Sounds like you are trying to talk about the piston rings?  Those normally go well over 200K miles in a properly maintained engine.

 

Oil smell typically is caused by oil dripping onto the hot exhaust pipes, from assorted typical leaks.

 

If it runs great, things can't be too bad.  I had an EA 82 that got very well overheated.  I resealed it, but it turned out to burn oil.  Lots of oil.  Like almost a quart per tank of gas.  I ran that engine for years, Lots of miles.  Used up all of my old used oil, ATF, friend's oil changes, cheap oil on sale anywhere.  I always mixed 50/50 new and whatever.  I only stopped running it when one of the heads cracked and the coolant leak got so bad that I had to add a bottle of water every 8 hours, even when it was parked.

It didn't smoke, and it passed emissions.  Not by a lot, but it passed.

 

About the coolant hoses, be sure you know where all of them are.  I don't know the EA81 well, but there are 7 on an EA82. 

[jdgmbi1]

okay so yes im talking about the piston rings thank you!! ...i have been Hooning around in it probably not what you want to hear but i am a car freak and have a car freak teen mojo/blood/brain...if you know what i mean. haha
1 so i ordered the Haynes manual and the how to keep your Subaru alive manual. thank you guys honestly the fact that people like this car and can relate to the feelings that i have for it is good enough for me!! plus its a good motivator for me! so my oil was not running that far up the dipstick in the beginning that's why i questioned it? it was only 3 inches max above where the full marker is. so i just need to remember put a full oil change 10W-40 in it and let it run? But for how long and in what psi range am i looking for specifically? if its different than all the other times i start it up on a normal bases? also if it is a full oil change should i take the filter and the pump itself off and check it before i run it on new oil? and i need to find a good reliable site of where to find the parts...including gaskets for my windows because i have a bad one on my back window and its leaking through my trunk. also i did fix the coolant hose lol or my friends did....they smelled "fruity stuff" and i really dident think anything of it hahaha!! of course i need to start small and progress on my work since i am ignorant of many things still.

Edited November 10, 2015 by jdgmbi1

[hatchsub]

Message backwoodsboy on here.  He is a subaru parts manager in NY.  He can help you get what you need to have it run well again.  

 

Gaskets....hahaha good luck.  There is a place in Austrailia that i went back and forth with before i got new windshield and rear window gaskets.  It was a pain but worth it.  As for side windows i bought the last full set of Subaru gaskets for the rear windows.  They are on my former coupe down in Virginia.  If you need the name of the place it will take me a bit of searching to figure it out.  

[987687]

jdgmbi1, where are you located? If you were near me I'd probably stop by on the weekend and give you hand getting in the right direction with it. That's how I learned to work on my cars, a few forum members gave me a hand doing some service on my car and got me in the right direction. I'm sure someone local to you would take a day or two to teach you how to work on it.

[DaveT]

Changing the oil is to try to clean it and the inside of the engine. It may or may not effect the oil pressure, but still good to do. Maybe do a change or 2 at 1000 miles. Then do normal interval.

 

Check the oil level after the car has sat on level ground for several hours. Not while running. I only added that because I got a feeling something may be confused.

 

It is normal for oil pressure to be higher when the engine is cold. It will vary with rpm also. I don't know typical pressures for your engine model. IT Is Best To Double Check With A Mechanical guage. 5psi at idle is not something that bothers me- there is no load on the engine. You need higher pressure when there is a heavy load.

[jdgmbi1]

okay so i am his son but obviously i still live with my parents so you would be able to meet my dad to!! but i live in university place WA!! (rain city Subie baby!! lol) so could i go to a place like home depot and get some type of rubber lining and use that as a gasket? it used to idle at around 25-45 maybe 50 psi now it idles at 0 to 5 psi. one other qestion would 14x7 rims fit on my car without rubbing....i want new ones because my stock tires are really expensive so i want to get more common wheels. the only place that or site that sells custom wheels with my bolt pattern (4x140) is diamond steelies. 

 

 

   my name is Benjamin but you can call me Ben!!

Edited November 10, 2015 by jdgmbi1

[jdgmbi1]

do you live near me?

[987687]

do you live near me?

 

I dunno where you live. As my location states, I live in northern Maine.

[jdgmbi1]

hahaha ya your really far im in Washington state near about 40 min from seattle