1997 Outback AT OIL TEMP help appreciated

[mattsoft1]

Hey guys,

 

So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid.

 

However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. 

 

Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring.

 

Thanks guys,

 

Matt

[lmdew]

 

The two large gray plugs on top of the trans just behind the engine.

 

If you search here for torque bind you will find lot's of info.

 

You can pull the trans tail shaft if it is the C-Duty that's bad.

[Bushwick]

Is there a fuse in FWD fuse holder under the hood? It should be up near the passenger strut near firewall. Or is the holder missing and there's a taped together wire? I'm wondering if the PO might have forced FWD before selling it. They might have even pulled the FWD bulb out of dash cluster.

 

Also, have you bothered checking the trans fluid yet? Is it dark and smells? Is it at the proper line on the stick with engine running and warmed up?

[johnceggleston]

HOW MANY MILES ON THE CAR?

 

the most common result of a duty c failure is torque bind,

not no power to the rear.

but no power could also happen,

usually due to a ''stuck'' duty c valve.

it is no longer metering the fluid pressure,

it is stuck and there is no fluid pressure.

 

in fact you could have 2 problems,

no rear power and another electrical malfunction in the trans.

but until you read the trouble codes you do not know what the problem is.

 

there is a test to see if the transfer clutch is mechanically sound.

there is a fuse you can insert to see if that will cure the AT Temp light.

and as mentioned,

if you trans fluid is not fresh, and pink and ''stink free'',

it may all be caused by dirty fluid.

 

so do some investigating and perhaps some service, 3 ATF drain and fills with driving in between,

and let us know what you learn.

Edited November 14, 2015 by johnceggleston

[Legback0203]

I replaced a transfer clutch in my legacy and while researching the topic one website said something like 99 or more percent of the time if duty c fails it's locked not open. It's most likely one of the above suggestions or your clutch pack. I was basically fwd before doing the clutch and my AT oil temp flashed on start-up as well.

[mattsoft1]

Thanks guys! Sorry about the late reply. So I took the car to the dealership to figure out what's wrong with it. And... the transmission is pretty much screwed. The drive gear for the rear transfer clutch has sheared off causing no power going to the rear wheels.

 

So pretty much I need a new transmission. I've done a bit of new research and want to try to replace the transmission myself. The worst that could happen is I can't get it back together and have to part out the car. Meh, I got it for free anyway.

 

So as far as I know any other 4eat from a 2nd gen legacy should (theoretically) bolt right up without a problem. Have you guys ever done a swap before? Will my ECU plug straight into the new transmission without any issues? I've heard that subaru ecu's can be picky. What sort of tools will i need, especially with moving the transmission around? What can I look for in a used transmission to tell if it's working properly?

 

My current plan is to get some of my friends this weekend, grab a trans from the auto-recycling center for $80 and go at it.

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks,

Matt.

Edited November 25, 2015 by mattsoft1

[idosubaru]

did the dealer disassemble to diagnosed or tested it?

that drive gear/hub is replaceable.  they shear off and can be pulled out and replaced.  might be able to simply fix it which doesn't require dropping the transmission.

 

but yeah - swap away if you want to install a whole new transmission.

 

outbacks are 4.44 final drive ratio so you have to:

 

1. Get a transmission from a 1996-1999 EJ25 equipped outback or legacy (LSi, GT) or 98 Impreza RS/Forester

or

2. Get a transmission from an EJ22 equipped legacy or impreza and also swap the rear differential to match.

 

1996-1998 and 99 legacy/outbacks will work.

[Legback0203]

Forgot about that circumstance when I wrote my post. Getting the extension housing off is not that bad of a job but I also thought it worth mentioning this was almost definitely caused by stuck solenoid so be sure to replace that if you decide to repair existing transfer clutch.

[mattsoft1]

Thanks again,

 

grossgary: yes, the dealer disassembled the trans, and offered to replace it for $4,000! 

 

So I went to the auto-recycling center and found a 2nd gen outback (idk what year) with a 4eat and only 146,000 miles on it. I got the drivetrain, exhaust, and wiring off before it started to snow (yay first snowfall in Utah! - now i really need my awd working). The only thing I worry about is I have no idea why the car ended up in the yard: I'm hoping it was the engine because there's oil all over the engine bay, but someone already took the engine so idk. I can always return the trans. 

 

What's the best way to lift the transmission back into the outback from the bottom? I'm guessing patience and a service jack to get it in the right place?

 

Matt