Oil Filter

[jp98]

I wonder just how many Fram filters he had to go through to find one that the metal strip was miss crimped and had the pleat missing in it? 

[mikaleda]

Probably just one, fram really sucks.

[jp98]

I doubt it, all filters will have problems if you look deep enough or take enough of them apart.  I have had a Wix blow apart on a truck, so should I quit purchasing Wix?  I have also had factory filters come without O rings on them so should I quit buying factory filters? 

[mikaleda]

 

I doubt it, all filters will have problems if you look deep enough or take enough of them apart. I have had a Wix blow apart on a truck, so should I quit purchasing Wix? I have also had factory filters come without O rings on them so should I quit buying factory filters?

Still, you can tell by how the filters are assembled the differance is obvious. The quality of material is important. Also missing an o ring and being improperly assembled is two totally different things. If you had an oil filter blow apart than the bypass valve in that truck was malfunctioning.

[matt167]

I only install FRAM because I'm paid too

[keith3267]

To all the Fram bashers, Fram is a six sigma company.  That means that any filter they recommend has to meet the manufacturers specs and cannot have a deviation from any one of these specs in more than 3 filters per million manufactured.  There are many filters out there that boast specs well above the manufacturers specs and so in a way are better filters.

 

For example you are building a house and the engineer specs 2x8 floor joists.  You decide you want 2x12 joists and you make the upgrade.  The 2x8 joists would have worked just fine and would have lasted as long as the house was expected to be there, but it was your choice.  Now lets say that had you bought the 2x8 joists, they had fewer knots, no splits or cracks so none were defective.  However, the 2x12 joists that were hyped up by the salesman at the lumber yard were delivered with severe cracks, large knots and other defects to the point that several were not good enough to use.

 

The 2x8 joists had better quality than the 2x12 joists even though the 2x12 joist had better specs.

 

Now if you plan on going over the mileage the manufacturer specifies for oil change intervals, then the Fram may not be good enough for you.  You may well need a filter with higher specs, but make sure the supplier of the better filter has good quality control or those specs won't do you any good.

 

I do not work for Fram and I don't ofter use their filters.  I usually use Purolator because for most applications, they are cheaper than Fram.

 

I have seen a lot of those internet "proofs" of Frams poor "quality" and all I see are ignorant people talking about something they simply do not understand.

 

Now, about the overpressure valve.  That valve is technically a delta P valve.  All oil systems have two dP (delta P) valves.  One is to control the system oil pressure and it is usually built into or located at the output of the oil pump.  This dumps excess oil back into the pan and is usually around 65 psi.

 

I've been working on cars for 50 years now and back in the day, most, if not all oil filters did not have a bypass valve in them.  The bypass valve was built into the oil filter adapter, and that only in engines that had a full filtration system.  It was not uncommon in the 50's to have the pump send some oil to the engine and some oil to the filter where it was filtered and returned to the pan.  In those days, oil filters were an option.

 

I have seen quite a few instances of the bypass valve in the adapter sticking open as they aged so essentially the oil filter would not even get wet.  My 97 Nissan recently had that happen and when I did an oil change on it, the filter never got a drop of oil inside it, it was as clean as new.  I guess this is why more manufacturers would rather have the bypass valve in the filter where you get a new one every time you change the filter.  I had noticed that some filters had these and some did not, but I didn't really pay that much attention.

 

Now delta P or delta pressure means the valve opens at a difference in pressure, not an absolute pressure.  It does not set system pressure, it just says that if the goesinta pressure is a set amount higher than the goesouta pressure, then the valve opens to insure proper oil flow.  A higher dP would cause a lower system pressure on the goesouta side of the filter, meaning less oil pressure and oil flow to the critical elements like the bearings.

 

With a 0w20 oil, the oil pressure and flow rate to the bearings is more critical than the heavier 5w30 oil.  For this reason, a lower dP would be better.  BTW, that answer on Amazon that said the 15A filter has a higher pressure valve has been removed by Amazon.  I don't know why but its gone now.

 

I plan on using only the Subaru filter in the future, but barring a really good valid argument, the Fram will stay on for now.

[Fairtax4me]

Oil and oil filters are like religion.

I have my reasons for disliking and not using Fram filters. I know plenty of people who use Fram exclusively.

 

God or Allah. Fram or Purloator. Auto Extra or Drive-rite. They all work... but for how long will they work?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

My EA82 Subaru, once Blew (literally) an oil Filter, but it was Luber-Finer, not Fram.

 

I am sticking with Purolator 10028 since decades ago, no problems so far...

 

Also, surprisingly, certain oil Filters are very Cheap at the Car's Dealer,

 

or at least here, the Kia Dealer sells their Original Korean oil Filters,

 

at half price than Wix, Purolator or Fram ... ...

 

Just to share some information... Kind Regards.

►Edit: sorry for the offtopicness

Edited December 9, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo