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STUCK CV AXLE!


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In the middle of a wheel bearing replacement and the cv axle wont budge from the old wheel bearings. I've tried different ways to hammer it out, but it hasn't moved at all. Frustration has taken over and I could use some advice. Or more advice given my previous post.

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if they're really bad these will just plain suck. 

 

If you haven't mushroomed the end yet - then you haven't given it much force.   so we are dealing with one of two things:
1. a stubborn one that will eventually come out

2.  one that will be a debacle

 

Don't pound too hard - it'll wreck the threads and mushroom the end so it won't pull through the hub. Then you have to file down the mushroomed portion but are left with threads the nut won't thread onto.  Don't try installing the nut and pounding that - that will do the same thing just in a slightly different way.

 

A puller can get them to budge but too much will crack rotor or hub or not able to handle the force if they're really bad.  i think they make a style that bolts to the lug nuts - that's probably the best.

 

I forget which way the bearing or hub slides in but can you disassemble the wheel bearing/hub with the axle still in it?  Then get the race/bearing/hub separated off the vehicle?

 

If it's really bad - save yourself the hassle and:
A.  take the axle/knuckle to a shop and let them heat and/or press it out

B.  get another front knuckle assembly with an axle already in it maybe?

 

source - northeast rust experiences.

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just a thought... do you happen to be talking about a rear axle on a 4wd  ea82 car? because those have a lock ring you have to remove first. I found this out the hard way after doing the front I assumed the rear was similar and beat the crap out of it before I noticed the lock ring. Felt dumb but it was what it was. If that happens to be whats holding you back, you gotta use a punch and come at it from an angle to back it out. May not be your problem but thought its worth mentioning...

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Penetrating oil, a hammer, and a puller. Heat if you have it. Soak the thing real good, the put the puller on it tight, but not so tight it'll break anything, then hit the shaft of the puller a couple times. Tighten the puller a little more, hit again, repeat. Careful not to damage the puller. Sometimes the combination of the constant pressure from the puller and the shock from them hammer works better than individually. If it's too bad, you might want to see if you can locate a used knuckle and axle. Depends on how much effort you want to put in.

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An oak 4x4 block, a socket, penetrating oil, and a bfh

Soak the splines in your favorite penetrating oil, i reccomend aerokroil, let it sit overnite.

Put the nut on backward, almost but not flush. Put the socket over it, then using the wood to protect it, frail the crap out of it with a bfh. If this doesnt get it to budge in several good whacks i reccomend the puller method mentioned above.

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I had a subaru dealer in Portland use something like steel epoxy to keep the rear half axles from ever being removed from the rear differential.  So I bought a used LSD rear differential and showed him.  I won't even park my car on the same block as that dealership anymore.

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I'm working on a 81 Brat. Doing the front axle, rotors, calipers, ball joint. Everything is rusted on.

I soaked every nut and bolt with pb blaster and a super penetrant for 7 days. I only did that because I tried heating the seized parts and they still didn't budge. I used a gear puller and tightened it up best I can with out forcing it. Every day I went to spray it I turned the puller till the hub and rotor with the rusted on washers came off. The first axle popped right out with a good whack of a sledge. I did use a pice of wood to protect the axle.

On the drivers side I did the same thing except the axle wouldn't budge. Since I'm doing the ball joint any way. I pulled the pin on the axle, unbolted the strut from knuckle and took off the crown nut on the ball joint connected on the knuckle. Using ALOT of force pushed the ball joint out of the knuckle

Then removed the axle and knuckle as one unit. Placed the knuckle in my vise and slowly tapped the axle out. Good luck hope this helps

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I'm working on a 81 Brat. Doing the front axle, rotors, calipers, ball joint. Everything is rusted on.

I soaked every nut and bolt with pb blaster and a super penetrant for 7 days. I only did that because I tried heating the seized parts and they still didn't budge. I used a gear puller and tightened it up best I can with out forcing it. Every day I went to spray it I turned the puller till the hub and rotor with the rusted on washers came off. The first axle popped right out with a good whack of a sledge. I did use a pice of wood to protect the axle.

On the drivers side I did the same thing except the axle wouldn't budge. Since I'm doing the ball joint any way. I pulled the pin on the axle, unbolted the strut from knuckle and took off the crown nut on the ball joint connected on the knuckle. Using ALOT of force pushed the ball joint out of the knuckle

Then removed the axle and knuckle as one unit. Placed the knuckle in my vise and slowly tapped the axle out. Good luck hope this helps

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I got it out finally! Now the inner wheel bearing is stuck on it! Why me?! Ha Well does anyone have the part numbers for the two bearing seals? I want to make sure that wont be another set back. Im working on the front passenger side of a front wheel drive 87 gl 3door.

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