Overheating Wheel - replaced the obvious

[jeturner13]

Hi, A few weeks ago I got in my 2001 subaru forester and when I got a few blocks away I started to hear a horrible screeching noise from the rear right wheel. I took it into a shop (it was getting dark and I was pressed for time). They looked at it and said the caliper was stuck and the pads were shot, they wanted about $650 to do the job; that's outrageous so I decided to do the job myself. I bought a new set of rotors, pads and one new caliper, couldn't find the brake hose locally. Replaced the pads, rotor and caliper no problem. Upon inspection of the caliper, I probably could have just greased the slides and fixed the problem, but I figured I already bought the new one so I just put it in. Although it was clear that the caliper had been stuck, the pads were worn down very unevenly and one of the slides was sticky.

Later that day I drove about 45 minutes on the interstate, stopped and realized that the wheel was still really hot (as it had been when the caliper was frozen). I stopped at a different shop and they said it was the brake hose. I ordered a new brake hose and finally got around the replacing it today. Replaced the hose no problem, drove the car around for a while and the right rear wheel is still heating up like crazy. After a 15 minute drive, mostly at 55 mph, the right rear wheel was around 350 degrees F and the left rear was about 125 degrees. I'm out of ideas here, I don't know what else to do. I've heard people mention checking the e-brake shoes but if it was the e-brake that is stuck and heating up the wheel, wouldn't the brake light on the dash be on?

I'm open to any and all suggestions at this point. Thanks!

Edited December 4, 2015 by jeturner13

[crazyhorse001]

The e-brake light is a switch on the lever. If the lever is down, the light is off. The brake can still be stuck on.

[john in KY]

Wheel bearing?

[nipper]

Bad Brake hardware

Sticking E brake

Sticking brake shoes

Sticking caliper sliders (too much lube is a bad thing)

Bad Caliper

Rust

 

Are we sure the other brake caliper is working?

 

Have you tried cracking open the bleeders after removing the wheels. There should be no pressure in the system when parked (discs). If fluid comes out under pressure then for some reason ts not being relieved. 

Edited December 5, 2015 by nipper

[jeturner13]

After taking another look at it today I've eliminated problems with the e-brake (the wheel spins when the brake is not on). The caliper seems to be working as I pushed the piston back in without any trouble. As for the caliper sliders, I'm not 100% sure that they are working properly. When I was putting the caliper back on today one of the pins seemed like it wasn't going in as far as it should, which made putting the caliper back on a little tough. I'm not sure if the other caliper is working, but nothing looked suspect when I replaced the pads on that side.

[nipper]

Are the sliders new? I think you found your problem

[jeturner13]

This is the replacement caliper I installed: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/wearever-brake-caliper-unloaded-caliper-with-bracket-19-b2066/18620749-P?navigationPath=L1*14921%7CL2*16461#fragment-1

 

So, the sliders should have been new or "remanufactured" like the rest of the caliper. I did grease them before putting it in, it's possible I could have l used too much lube.

 

What are some ways to check the wheel bearing? I'm not really hearing any noise from the back of the car (at least not anything that stands out like I would expect) and there is no play in the wheel when its off the ground.