99 Legacy Outback ej25 Issues

[1 Lucky Texan]

'ticking' might be OK, 'knocking' doesn't sound good.

 

on many of our motors, there's a easily missed or displaced hose under the intake from the IACV that will prevent idling - look to make sure it's connected.

Edited February 3, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[ratch]

i couldn't tell between my mom's expidition and having to sit in the car to rev it a little to here it. my Air intake is a little diferent. when a previous owner was in the fender bender whoever did work on it removed the stock intake. This https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_VG5JTFdMeKMDlueG9XbnFaRlU/view?usp=sharing is a pic of my engine bay. I will check for the hose. I only removed it once back a couple weeks ago when my little brother and I were doing a compression test. and yes i plugged the fuel pump back in. i think i do hear a sucking sound but i could be mistaken. the "knock could also be a click. i need to charge a battery and fire it up a couple times.

[ratch]

should i check the IACV? I checked and checked and there is no hoses or anything unplugged. the only thing unplugged is one of the fans. but thats because i was testing the car and didn't want to get down in the mud and reconnect it. i connected one of them without issue but forgot the other one -___- I watched a couple videos on cleaning the IACV. i think removing it will be the real chore.

[idosubaru]

push the gas pedal - does the car stay running?

 

if the timing was off you may have bent valves.  i'd want to confirm timing and valve performance (compression/leak down).

and why was it off to begin with - this is causative - a engine doesn't randomly get untimed.

 

it would be like coming out and see your front door missing.  you wouldn't think "oh the door just broke off and rolled away i'll get another" - you woudl think, "something happened, someone took it, something caused this"

[idosubaru]

otherwise IACV is simple - removed, clean, reinstall.  just annoying with any cooling hoses and/or the gasket needing to be replaced. 

personally i'd just prop the throttle body open or ignore idling with throtle closed (the only time the IACV is needed) at the moment until you know more about this enigne. 

[ratch]

Question, checked the IACV and PCV. the PCV needs a spray and the IACV is pretty good. Is the hose going to the pCV supposed to be stiff as plastic?as well this goes down to a T section where one side is bigger and is connected by like 4 inches of hose to the block. the small section of bigger hose is a bit stiff as well, not as much as the other one. Regardless while trying to remove the hose connected to the PCV the hose broke and broke the T section as well. 

 

@Grossgary, i stated in my OP when this happened bu i'll reiterate. I'm a novice manual driver. i've gotten good but i still kill it occasionally. the day this happened i was stopped at a sign and then when i took off i killed it pretty hard. and after that is when it lost power and couldn't run right. pulled over, called my mom and had my brother come tow me home. we fired it up a few times to try and diagnose but thats it. Yes when i rev it it would stay running and the clicking i was hearing disappeared. so i think i lucked out and didn't get a bent valve. I planned on another compression test very shortly. 

[idosubaru]

read the OBDII codes and post them here..

 

get a compression/leak down test as soon as possible.  

 

those PCV hoses are typically hardened with age and brittle - thye crack all the time.  i have no idea how many i've replaced, ignored, or taped. 

[ratch]

not sure how i'm going to get the OBDII codes, i know what you're talking about. But, my battery is shot, i don't have the money for a battery atm. What are the Amp levels of the standard Subaru battery? mine is a actual subaru battery but it doesn't have the amps listed on it. we have a couple batteries here, not sure if they'll work though. if i can get the minimum CA/CCA numbers then i can check to see if the batteries we have are sufficient enough.

[idosubaru]

not sure how i'm going to get the OBDII codes, i know what you're talking about. But, my battery is shot

 

use another person's car and jumper cables.

[ratch]

Alright, so got my PCV Hose connecter solved. had some spare couplers and a T section so i got some vacuum hose and made a jury rig to be able to fire it up and make sure its running. jumped it and rev'd it up. It bellowed white-blue smoke for a couple minutes and then the color went away. Its idling now, i think it just needed the cobwebs blown out. it sat for 4 ish months. it is still a bit rough and has a 500~ rpm idle. going to run up to Autozone and put it on the code reader and see what i get. 

 

possibly related, one of the fuel lines running from the Filter to the injectors was seeping fuel from the hose on top of the filter. also turns out my battery might be fine. i cleaned the terminals when i put it back in the other day and after running the car for a bit its holding a charge it seams.

[1 Lucky Texan]

they should be able to do a battery/charging system test while you're getting the code(s) read.

[ratch]

The battery is shot, after driving it around i parked and within minutes it was drained enough i could not start the car. so mom picked up a battery while she was out. I have to take my old one in for the core charge. 

 

Taking it to Autozone after work to get the codes read. 

 

Question, is there a For Sale or Parts threads on here? I'm looking for the right turn signal for my car. and maybe a couple other things. 

 

Going to look into Oil Pump gasket and front main seal. since i put it back in time to see if that was the issue so i didn't get the main seal done like i wanted to. and i'm thinking that with as much oil as i'm losing and it being a significant drip on the front, i'm wondering if the oil pump gasket needs replaced. its February now and in my part of the Midwest its normally got bad weather. so i'm going to have to just sink money into oil to keep it topped off until about May then i'll tear the front off again and replace the gasket and seal. 

[ratch]

P0103 - MAF Sensor circuit High Input 

P0102 - MAF Sensor circuit Low Input.

 

that could explain the roughness and really low Idle. going to look some things up and then go tinker.

[ratch]

anyone know what i can do about this? should i get MAF cleaner and clean the MAF? i used my finger to touch the plastic and its not dirty. no i did not touch the sensitive wires. 

 

the Idle is erratic its having issues staying running  just sitting there. the Idle will drop to the 100s and below. i have searched every inch and there is no vacuum lines not hooked where they should be. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

some year models have MAFs that become intermittent. maybe tapping/pressing on it and listening for a change in the idle would confirm you need a new MAF?

 

also, carefully inspect the wiring for rodent or other damage. And maybe refresh some ground connections.

 

that's about all the cheap stuff I can think of to try.

[ratch]

Already checked for damage. 

 

now i'm going to pick up a fuel filter monday. after the car has been running, it seems that some fuel seeps from one of the filter connections. replacing the filter should help a lot.

 

i hope the MAF isn't bad, that's 210USD minimum. 

 

I have noticed that its making somewhat of a whining noise. it seems to be either a belt or something on top of the motor. I'll pick up some MAF cleaner on Monday. 

[ratch]

I don't know where to go with this now. new Fuel Filter installed, used MAF Cleaner to clean the MAF out. i don't even know where to start looking for P0103 and P0102 codes. and now its throwing misfire on 1 and 4. I'm positive the misfire is the plugs. they're Bosch Platinum 2(?). Supposed to be Bosch brand OEM equivelants. i'll end up getting some NGKs with in the next couple months. 

 

here is a run down on the symptoms, fires and runs fine. the Idle is spiratic and it stutters here and there when going down the road. the Idle also makes it dificult for around town driving. if i don't rev it before i take off from stop then it will certainly die. the OBDII Codes are P0103 and P0102, or the MAF Sensor is getting HIGH/LOW on the circuit. I'm not sure where else to go from here.

[1 Lucky Texan]

vacuum gauges often loend free from parts stores. You can also spray
carb cleaner around the vacuum lines and the intake manifold while idling
- any change in idle might mean you've found a vacuum leak.

 

Try wiggling/bending the harness to the MAF while idling, see if anything changes. Wires can have opens inside the insulation. Maybe get a MAF from a wreck? chances are it was working when the car crashed. Should be cheaper than a new one. Hopefully lower miles than the one you have now.

 

any oil in the spark plug tubes? Is the poor-running/misfiring related to rain/ moisture at all?

 

many people report problems with non-NGK plugs, also, if you replace plug wires, Subaru or denso is preferred.

 

whining is sometimes air in the power steering fluid. coulpa bad o-rings on the suction hose adapter on top of the pump. Could also be alternator or tensioner pulley i guess. Look in the PS tank while idling;

 

 

Edited February 17, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[ratch]

the Whining is most likely the PS pump. when i was doing work i had it disconnected and pulled off to the side. This cause PS fluid to leak out.

 

Checking hoses wouldn't do anything about the MAF HIGh and LOW?

 

I'm wondering about the IACV, i remembered that the guy i bought this car from said he adjusted the Idle. i didn't think anything of it at the time, but after some reading recently i'm thinking it could be an issue. but i don't remember the exact method he used. He might of just adjusted the throttle cable. 

 

I'll go check stuff and see if i find anything.

[ratch]

this is greatly annoying me. I have checked my wires and vacuum lines. everything is properly connected. i'm still getting P0103 and P0102 codes. Can a bad sensor cause fluctuations in the electrical system? I know my moms Expedition is getting new sensors because thats the code its throwing up. the heads are likely fine. we wont know until it gets done. so this made me think, Should i check sensors? and which ones should i start with? i know that the issue comes down to the Fuel/Air systems. it seems like its either gasping for eir or running lean. I can't tell which. All i know is, its becoming very frustrating. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I believe 'some' sensors use a 5V reference voltage from the ECU. I guess one bad sensor on that line could screw-up the other sensors on that line - who knows which DTC would get reported first?

 

I think, if ground connections have been refreshed and the wiring all looks good - you should put in a MAF sensor. Even if you're wrong - you're further along in the diagnosis AND you have new (newer) MAF sensor.

 

ANY 17 year-old sensor could be bad.

[ratch]

Something that might help or not. I forgot about it because it hasn't happened in a while. My speedometer will stop working out of the blue. the trip counter also stops. i used to be able to press the trip reset and it would get the speedometer working. I'm thinking there might be either a short or maybe a bad sensor if thats what drives the Speedometer. Next I'll be making a trip to the yard and finding a MAF sensor to replace.

[ratch]

Well don't have to worry about troubleshooting the issues... It's down completely now. The car is sitting about 80~ miles away on the side of the highway. i'll be going up on Tuesday to bring it back. I was leaving the station where i met my Daughter's mom. it started making a whirring noise. got out on the highway and the whirring got worse suddenly and lost all power and it won't start. the motor will turn over but it won't fire. and when its turning over it makes a noise, i'm not sure how to describe it but to me it sounds like maybe a bearing went out. there was no clank or sudden sounds. no oil pool on the pavement none of that. so the engine is repairable but the cost will be too much for my budget. I'm going to go up to KC and pull a motor from a U Pick it to drop into the car. Probably grab a MAF as well. and befor ei put it in i'll put new Head Gaskets on it and make sure the Timing is good. the timing on my

ine is good, relatively new, i would get a belt though. I'll know more when i get it back and get some things tore off to check. going to pull the timing cover off and verify that is good. considering rings while i have it apart. but that will depend on price. I'm only going to have a couple hundred. and the "crate" engine will cost at least $100. thats what it was a couple years ago when i pulled a motor for my Tracer.

 

so, since a motor swap is in the future i may take this opportunity to swap to a 2.2L. the 95 2,2L that is "plug N' Play" i would like to get identifiers for that. or a low work 2.2L swap. every Subaru Vet says the 2.2L is a better more reliable engine so i'll swap to it. If there is a good Write up that can give this info to me link it and i'll read it. Pictures are important for identifiers. 

[matt167]

95 dp is the only 22e with the newer electonics and dual port head.. I wouldn't hold out for one. At this point there hard to find. You need one from an auto with EGR..

 

96-98 22e will swap easy enough. Only functional difference is single port y pipe needs swapped. 97-98 are interference too, but that does not matter. Any of those engines are single cam, and have silver almost ribbed valve covers that the spark plugs are clearenced for but do not go thru the cover.

 

If you can't find what u need, you could short block the car with almost any Subaru Ej engine to 2010. Just use your heads and intake, and use ej25d head gaskets. I know the yard I go to will let a short block go for $50, so its an option

[ratch]

The yard i goto is pretty big. It's in an old Train depot or something. Huge warehouse building with cranes and tracks. they separate the cars so i won't have to search the whole thing. a couple years ago i bought a Crate engine(block with head and valve cover) from there for $100 I don't think the price will be much different. 

 

so the 22e is a SOHC? 95 dp? not sure what you mean. anyways, going to be leaving shortly to go get my car from the side of the highway.