92 Impreza cranking a little but not starting

[Thunderboss]

My 92 Impreza wagon has been bucking/hesitating for a few months and from what I had been reading, it could be the fuel pump.

A couple days ago, after getting a full tank of gas, it would not start at the pump. It cranked a little but wouldn't turn over. When I turned the key again it cranked a little less, followed by a "tick tick tick tick" from underneath the dash.

I'm not mechanically savy but I read quite a bit and watched a handful of videos which helped me replace the fuel pump.

It didn't work. It still cranks a little, followed by "tick tick..."

And when I turn the key, I don't hear the pump at all.

My next step, with a little internet help, is to check the fuel pump relay

I've been told to maybe change the fuel filter and try spraying starter fluid while someone tries to turn it over.

I've also been told it could be a timing belt issue or kinked fuel line.

 

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

I'm going to check the relay right now.

[Thunderboss]

Also, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge or test light which seems like would make this easier.

[1 Lucky Texan]

I gotta say, it reads more like a bad battery or a charging issue.

 

does it start normally if jumped?

 

how old is the battery? can you take it, or the car, to a parts store and have them test the charging system?

Edited December 15, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Thunderboss]

I haven't tried jumping it. I had a new battery installed 2 months ago.

[1 Lucky Texan]

do the headlights dim a lot when it fails starting, while cranking? 

 

does it always begin cranking or, sometimes, just click? If so, maybe the solenoid contacts are worn in the starter. Try whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4. If the car starts, you just need to rebuild the solenoid. Contact/plunger kits from ebay are affordable.

 

check the cables - sometimes they corrode inside the insulation. Refresh the ground from the neg side of the battery too. Even feeling of them to see if they get hot, wiggling them a little while cranking to listen for changes in crank speed, etc.

 

there are voltage tests you can do while idling, starting, etc.

 

If nothing else, have a parts store double check the charging system - it may not be charging the battery.

 

I'd expect a fuel supply problem would keep you from accelerating or driving up a hill - not just start.

Edited December 15, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Thunderboss]

Okay thanks. I'll look into that. I never considered the battery since it's pretty new.

[forester2002s]

Give the battery-terminals a little tap with a hammer (or convenient rock).

It just may be corrosion at the battery-terminals.

 

One way to check for this is to turn on the headlights just before trying to start the car.

If the headlights dim noticeably when you try to start, it may be corroded battery-terminals.

[Thunderboss]

Thanks for the advice.

So I tried finding the fuel pump relay down under the left driver side but couldn't find it. I'm sure it's accessible but I'm 6'3" so it was difficult to see clearly under.

I just tried turning the key with the headlights on and I noticed that they dim significantly. The battery terminals, however, are squeaky clean. I still cleaned them but nothing has changed.

Hmmmm

[Thunderboss]

Also, I tried jumping my car with my friends Forester. No luck.

[Cougar]

The battery voltage at the battery posts should be around 11 volts while the starter is cranking the engine. If it is below that then the starter may be bad and is drawing too much current or the battery charge is low. The trouble could also be with the engine if it is causing the starter to work harder than it normally should due to excessive drag from the engine components.

[Thunderboss]

Thanks to everyone for the input. It's kept me on my toes and I've learned quite a bit.

After 2 days of troubleshooting outside in 40 degree, gloomy Portland, I think I'm going to take it to a shop for diagnoses.

I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's something simple or inexpensive.

Otherwise I'll have to start looking for another Subaru.

Edited December 16, 2015 by Thunderboss

[1 Lucky Texan]

could just be time for a starter. They can be removed and tested at some parts stores i think.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Here's a few more clues you can get by watching the headlights while trying to start your car:

 

Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, nothing happens, no clink, no crank and the the headlights don't change or flicker one bit. This usually means the power sent from the key through the neutral safety switch to the starter solenoid is not getting there.

 

Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, nothing happens, no clink, no crank and the the headlights do flicker a bit. This usually means the power is getting to the solenoid and it isn't passing the power on to the starter. That would mean the solenoid is bad.

 

Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then SLOWLY come back up to white and bright. This usually means the battery is bad and incapable of handling a huge request for power to crank the engine over.

 

Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then as soon as you let go of the key, the headlights QUICKLY bounce back to white and bright. This usually means the starter is bad or the engine is locked up.

[Thunderboss]

"Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then as soon as you let go of the key, the headlights QUICKLY bounce back to white and bright. This usually means the starter is bad or the engine is locked up."

 

That about sums up my battery test.

But, let's say the issue is the starter. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key?

 

Thanks again.

[1 Lucky Texan]

normally I'd say yes but, i can't be certain how good the above diagnostics are so, i wouldn't rule-out some other kind of electrical problem. Are you sure you don't hear the pump? It will only cycle on for a few seconds when the key moves to ON. Just long enough to pressure the rails.

[mikaleda]

Sounds like the starter is dragging. I had this happen recently on my moms new used 96 impreza, changed the starter out with the older style rebuildable starter and its been great ever since.

Edited December 16, 2015 by mikaleda

[mikaleda]

"Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then as soon as you let go of the key, the headlights QUICKLY bounce back to white and bright. This usually means the starter is bad or the engine is locked up."

 

That about sums up my battery test.

But, let's say the issue is the starter. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key?

 

Thanks again.

Not neccisarilly, I would change the starter. Fuel pumps rarely fail on these cars.

[ferox]

Have you tried charging the battery?  What is the battery voltage with no load on it?  Did you have your alt tested? If your alternator is weak or going out it can keep the car going for a while even though the battery isn't being charged adequately and can slowly drain it until it does what you describe.  Tons of automotive issues are misdiagnosed because of a bad battery, which can really be a bad alt or starter, etc. 

[crazyhorse001]

Sounds a LOT like a starter. If the engine is locked up you can tell pretty quick by grabbing the belts and trying to turn the engine over by them. That is unless you have i think a 24mm socket and ratchet handy.

[Thunderboss]

Just a week ago, I took it in to Jiffy Lube for a tune up and they checked everything. After reading everyone's responses I'm now thinking it's the starter.

Looks like I got another weekend project.

How do I test the starter to know if it's bad?

Edited December 17, 2015 by Thunderboss

[mikaleda]

Most any parts store will test it for free

[Thunderboss]

Great, thanks