impreza outback

[jelliff]

I'm going to go look and most likely buy a 2000 impreza outback sport wagon tomorrow morning.  What, if any out of the norm, should I be looking to check for?  obvious things not necessary.  More looking for someone to direct me to the not so obvious things inherent to this generation subie.    thanks guys and gals,  Joe

 

it's an automatic, 2.2 with 182k.  appears to be completely stock, with the exception of the added dings and dents from the last 15 years

[mikaleda]

Check for tourque bind, turn in tight circles and should take little to no gas.

 

Warm it up drive it around and then pop the coolant resiviour and look for bubbles a sure sign of a head gasket problem. Not real common, but possible.

 

If its an MT get it up to speed and see if it makes any grinding noises is 4th or 5th and of course check the gear oil level/color.

 

CV axels, check the boots and listen for clicking noises when turning.

 

Just read its an AT so your pretty good there, may have the typical slow engament issue. No biggie deal search this forum about it, should be lots of posts, from what I read trans x seems to work well.

Edited December 19, 2015 by mikaleda

[AdventureSubaru]

These head gaskets tended to leak externally for a while. Look under the block at the head gasket seams for leaks. A little weeping is not unusual, but if it's more than that, it's something to consider.

 

If the PO has records of head gaskets done and done well, it's a big plus. Most of these motors will have had it done by this point but not all. Overall good car and good motor. Just not as bullet proof as the 1990-1998 EJ22s.

[AdventureSubaru]

Seeing as illinois is rust belt area. Look at the rust condition. Particularly on the back half of the vehicle. Some rust on the rear quarters is normal and cosmetic. Look at brake lines and seams for leaks.Surface rust vs. rot that can cause the structural ridgidity to be compromised. Often rear strut towers etc. would be first affected.

 

Some rust buckets are still very stout. Just becomes a factor as the more rust, the more difficulty when you do any work on it.

[fishy]

If it's not too late: Have a look at the rear subframe if you can. They tend to rot through on the bigger flatter sections. Also stick your hand in the rear wheel well between the spring and the outboard inner wall of the wheel well and see if there is any metal left there. Chances are you might find that there's nothing left there but rusty lace and hope.  

Those are the tricky rust spots. Otherwise check for the regular rocker panels, floor, fenders, etc. And the other advice above for the mechanics is all good stuff to look into as well. 

Happy hunting!

[jelliff]

yup fishy, you're too late, but thank you anyway.  This is by far the biggest rust bucket I've ever bought.  yep, I bought it alright.   super nice lady who has had the same mechanic working on it since 06 when she purchased it.  It definitely has issues to be dealt with, but nothing that can't be taken care of.  catalytic converter was non existent and therefore it shows a check engine light. 

I was very happy that she did not start it up for me beforehand.  it was as cold as the outside weather at about 28 degrees when looking at it this morning.  I checked all the fluids and they were all fine.  Oil was down a smidge, but looking at her previous oil change sticker I saw that it isn't due til 183200 or jan 16.  So, that was a pleasant surprise to see it truly doesn't leak oil.  all major maintenance was at 177k and noted as well as being completed.   This includes timing belt and water pump.

Everything appeared to be working minus the rear wiper.  cruise and all other accessories still operating.  It needs rear wheel bearings done and I'll do the brakes on the rear again although they look ok right now.

I honestly, even showing as badly as it did, can't believe I purchased it for 300.00 and then drove it home 210 miles.  It should serve me well thru this winter and maybe a few more.  Considering the amount of cancer it does have, that will be it's only job.  Heat works great and the A/C even works as well, though I'll never use it.

I'll try and get some pictures up here in the next day or two.  I'm just crazy happy at the moment with my "ugly betty" subie.   half shafts were very good and look to have also been replaced within the last year or so I'd say.

 

So, other than the wheel bearing issue I'd say the only other item to be concerned with is that it seemed to be a touch jerky when going up a hill.  Nothing severe, but noticeable.  You can accelerate out of that and it'll become smooth again though.  I doubt she ever knew that as her area was fairly flat and mine is as well.  Just something I noted on the drive home thru some hills in northern Iowa around Dubuque.  This subie was a Madison WI resident from birth until now.

 

have a great rest of your weekend guys and gals.   Joe

[AdventureSubaru]

Nice score. For $300 if it moves on it's own power, you got a deal. Heck, scrap prices are around that,

 

Jerky acceleration in lower RPMs often means plug wires. Can also be MAF sensor or fuel delivery.

 

As far as rust, just make sure then important parts are sound. Even if it's scrap metal and some ugly welds, it's better than driving a compromised vehicle if theres any serious rot. Seen and done some very cheap and ugly repairs like that. Safety first.