logic23 Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Just bought a 97 outback with a blown engine. Car wouldn't start with the old engine and didn't think much about it since I was putting a new one in. New engine (2.2) installed and still no spark. Turn the key and fuel pump cycles so the ECU is getting power. Swapped in another ECU ( not 100% sure its good). Swapped the coil pack. The crank and cam sensors came with the new engine so prob not those. I checked the timing prior to engine install and that's all good. Anything I am missing??? Taking the ECU home tonight to see if it starts my 96 legacy auto. Edited December 24, 2015 by logic23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 The only thing that you haven't ruled out would be the ignition control module. About $10 at most junkyards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 You need to verify power is getting to the ignition system. If that is okay then the crank sensor operation should be checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 X2 on the Igniter, and make sure you have 12v on the center wire of the coil pack. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Have you inspected the fusible link in the underhood fuse box yet? My 95's link had cracked and corroded, and out of the blue car wouldn't start after stopping at a grocery store. So it went from zero issues to sitting 15 minutes and no-start. Figuring it was probably a fuse or maybe ignition coil, decided to do a quick visual starting at underhood fuse box and immediately noticed the link had cracked casing and the wire was corroded with a weak break. Fiddled with it and engine fired right up. Got it home and inserted a temp fix. Went to Auto Zone and bought a section of fusible link, and soldered the ends to the factory connectors (factory connectors appear to be stainless or very high quality steel, much nicer than the generic speaker terminal variety). 1st section I bought "worked", but the actual wire got too hot with engine idling despite being the same diameter roughly as the factory link. So went back and bought next size up and it remained cool to the touch. Dunno if the upgraded EZ36 alternator had anything to do with it (nearly 65% bump over the amperage of stock) or not as the factory link was hardened and cracked. Anyhow, it takes 10 seconds to inspect and will NOT allow engine to start to if faulty. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logic23 Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Thanks team, It ended up being the igniter. In 14 years of subarus ive never replaced one. I this one got rained on/ hood left open in the rain. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Blasted ignitor. I keep a spare in the glove box now since it can strand. When mine went the engine would still start and run but was very rough and had misfire on two cylinders and had like no power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I keep a spare of every sensor on the engine just in case. Never know when a crank or cam sensor will crap out. MAF or temp sensor might not leave you stuck but it can make your morning or evening commute pretty unpleasant. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Thanks for the update and glad you found the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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