For Optimal EJ22 Performance, What to Look For?

[warmblood58]

Hi, just starting to put my EJ22 intake on after cleaning/painting, etc. So far, I replaced badly cracked knock sensor, cleaned crank and cam sensors, cleaned IACV, PCV, sprayed electrical connections with electrical contact cleaner,cleaned throttle body and sent out injectors for cleaning (one had too much resistance and the tech believed was not firing . . . in spite of this, I thought engine felt pretty good. I resealed CAT to muffler. Timing belt was done a year ago, plugs were changed recently. I did just learn that a faulty coolant sensor can lead to a run rich condition (how common is this?) and from my perspective, I was running rich prior - fuel mileage was not great. I am also replacing fuel pressure regulator as I noticed that I had the original still on this '94 Legacy EJ engine. Anything else to look for in order to make this engine run at peak efficiency? Thanks and happy holidays Forum!

[mikaleda]

You could clean your MAF sensor, you have to use MAF sensor cleaner IIRC.

[Uberoo]

Do a basic engine tuneup. new airfilter, new ngk spark plugs, new spark plug wires, clean sensors, clean/replace pcv,etc. run seafoam or water through the intake to remove carbon...

Edited December 24, 2015 by Uberoo

[warmblood58]

You could clean your MAF sensor, you have to use MAF sensor cleaner IIRC.

Thanks, yes, did MAF too

[warmblood58]

Do a basic engine tuneup. new airfilter, new ngk spark plugs, new spark plug wires, clean sensors, clean/replace pcv,etc. run seafoam or water through the intake to remove carbon...

Yes, I have been wanting to do the seafoam clean, will add some to the engine oil and drive before draining and will most likely clean upper end via PCV valve

[mikec03]

While not exactly on topic, I would look at the alternator and starter to see if they look new.  I've had a number failures with these components on 90's 2.2 engines.  Just had the alternator fail on a 95.  So you might think about PM on these to get another 100K of trouble free mileage. 

[Bushwick]

Do NOT add seafoam, and NEVER add anything to the oil other than OIL. It will do ZERO for an engine already running OK. You risk damaging an otherwise healthy engine with that crap. It's like what an accountant that's never wrenched a day in his life would see on the shelf and think "wow, I've got to use this".

 

 

You've done everything or are doing everything you possibly could to make it run it's best. I'd replace ALL the vacuum lines and the fuel filter. If you want the car to be quicker, drop curb weight.

[warmblood58]

I have heard pretty good things about seafoam and lifters . . . anyone else? I am also replacing two small fuel line connections that live under intake, they were as hard as plastic from heat over the years. Would hate to try to replace these on the road

[Bushwick]

If you want silent lifters, do them the correct way and remove them and bleed them in clean oil until only clear oil exits. You'll get a nasty black gunk being ejected until cleaned. If lifter will not pump back up, replace it. They can and do fail beyond a point of no return.

 

 

Google "seafoam ruined engine" and take your pick on why it's a bad idea. If that doesn't persuade you, by all means add a dangerous snake oil additive to the oil and you can post in a month how your engine needs replaced or why there's metal shavings in your oil filter or you have a knock all of a sudden. Or if additive was added to the gas, probably posting how engine lacks power, your cat is glowing bright red, you have codes and CEL, cat needs replaced, etc.

[bratman2]

Been using seafoam annually to remove carbon and top end cleaning in my 87 Brat for at least 15 if not more years. I'll post back in a month about my dead engine. Though I have never added to my oil and have no need to.

[Bushwick]

Funny, all my engines run perfectly fine w/o oil, gas, or vacuum additives. You guys are putting the equivalent of sugar cubes into your cars and are experiencing placebo effects. How about doing before/after pics of your engines and tell me what changes. If you are routinely changing your oil and running good quality oil, there should be nothing wrong. Still trying to figure out what it's doing for fuel system when the car only has gas being put through it. It won't disolve grains of dirt that end up in the filter. Getting on the gas pedal while getting on an onramp should dislodge any minor carbon build up. Hell, spritz a little water into the intake will do the same thing w/o possible cylinder wash though you have to know what you are doing.

 

 

Seriously can't believe people defend snake oil with ZERO proof it's doing anything other than placebo anecdotes. But by all means, drop $$ and claim something is better. 

[bratman2]

I went from having to use 93 gas to using 87. Even a mix of 93/87 would spark knock before the seafoam cleaning. I continued thinking it would keep the carbon build up out. Maybe it would never comeback, I don't know. But it worked and was highly recommended by many on this board way back years ago. On the lifters, I don't know, seems like many recommended it for that. My son in law borrowed my chainsaw and left ethanol laced fuel in it. When I pulled the saw out a year or two later it would barely run. Added 1 oz of seafoam per tank and 4 tanks of fuel later it was back to it's normal self. Some things it can do but rebuilding your motor is not one of them.

Edited December 25, 2015 by bratman2

[mikaleda]

Actually seafoam does work as an carbon cleaner. Here is the proof you want bushwick.

Does Seafoam Actually Work in a Car? (with Proof):

This guy runs a snake can before and after so there's no denying it does help with carbon build up. Granted a bit of water does almost the same thing, but I think the seafoam does a better job IMHO.

Edited December 25, 2015 by mikaleda

[crazyhorse001]

DO NOT RUN SEAFOM AS AN OIL ADDITIVE!

 

You CAN however, add it to the oil, IDLE the engine for a very few mins, then change the oil, and filter immediately after. If i do this i will do a second oil/filter change within 500 mi to get the rest of the seafoam out.

 

Prolonged use of seafoam is bad juju. Using it for a short time will flush the passages, and other things. It CAN push gunk into the lifters too, clogging them up. If your engine is sludged up badly, it really needs to be pulled apart and cleaned.

 

Adding it to the fuel system will clean up the varnish in a system thats been sitting for years. Been there done that a couple times. It even freed up varnished, stuck injectors in a field find Xt6 i had. I really cant see an advantage to the age old method of letting a vacuum line suck it straight from the can tho.

Edited December 25, 2015 by crazyhorse001

[mikaleda]

I wouldn't add it to the oil, I only use it for an intake cleaner.

[Uberoo]

Seafoam is much safer to suck it through the intake,If you must put it in the oil then put 1/3 can in,idle the engine for a little bit, then change the oil.Change the oil again in 500 miles or so..

 

I have used seafoam in the fuel tank and had to replace a fuel pump less than a month later.

I also drove around for a couple days with 1/4 quart of ATF in the oil and I threw a rod in an otherwise healthy 286K mile EA81 engine.

 

The biggest gains ive gotten from seafoam/water have been in the intake. Most of the time I just use water because its cheaper and does the same thing- just without the cool smoke cloud. I ran water through the intake of my 220K mile 87 dodge dakota when I got it, and it took TWO GALLONS of water before it stopped blowing black carbon out the tailpipe.