xdeadeye1 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 about 5 months ago I had a brake issue with my drivers rear caliper sticking. I got a new caliper and installed it on the old (not very good) rotor and same pads as they had a lot of wear left in them. Just recently im hearing a noise from same left rear caliper,, grinding / dragging on breaking. Pulled the wheel, pulled the caliper up and pulled out the pads. The outer pad is fine with lots of tread left. The inner pad is worn down , and not very evenly I might add, to the point it is almost through to the rivets. When I installed the new caliper I put syl-glide on the clips and on the caliper pins.. A friend said maybe its my rubber break hoses collapsing because they are old and causing the piston to be stuck out. Im going to put on new rotors and pads. I just don't want the same thing to happen again. What are your thoughts.? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Did the new caliper come with the bracket or just the caliper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 it was just the caliper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Sounds like a problem with the sliders or pins. Someone here says if either guide or lock pin has a rubber like o-ring on it he removes them because they swell up and then make it not slide freely. I think one time someone said the new caliper had like paint or something where the pins go into and it wasn't sliding very freely. Basically the caliper has to be more or less free to slide in and out on the pins so that it can center itself and wear the pads evenly. Otherwise something like what you described will happen. I like reman calipers but usually get it including the bracket that way it's all ready to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Sounds like a problem with the sliders or pins. Someone here says if either guide or lock pin has a rubber like o-ring on it he removes them because they swell up and then make it not slide freely. I think one time someone said the new caliper had like paint or something where the pins go into and it wasn't sliding very freely. Basically the caliper has to be more or less free to slide in and out on the pins so that it can center itself and wear the pads evenly. Otherwise something like what you described will happen. I like reman calipers but usually get it including the bracket that way it's all ready to go. Agreed A lot of times when shops do brakes all they do (to make time on the job) is pull the caliper off and grease the slides and don't clean out the bracket. You have no idea how many times I do a brake job (the slow and long way) and I spray brake clean into the bracket where the slides go and then dry it out with an air gun. And there are chunks of hard grease that come flying out. All that build up will prevent the slide from going to all the way. Also, the only point of that rubber is to prevent a noise really... So I'd clean out the bracket really well and the grease it fresh. Should be smooth then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 well I cleaned the upper pin and bushing on the caliper bracket and the lower bolt, and applied syl glide to them. The clips on the bracket,, (the shiny crome things the pads sit on) were new. I put syl glide on them, I looked at them now. and they are just kinda covered with brake dust . The silicone stuff just gets caked with it. WOndering if I should just forego putting anything on there. So, so far, you guys think its due to dirty caliper slide pins..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) I did forget to mention one other thing - the pads shouldn't be too tight in the caliper bracket. I.e. they have to be able to slide in the clips. Sometimes if the old bracket is somewhat rusty the pads will fit sort of tight in the bracket. There was a bulletin about filing down the ears on the pads in that case so that they're not so tight. I always file mine down a bit. The only potential downside to filing too much is there may be a 'click' noise when applying the brakes. I did get that but only when switching from backing to going forward. Else I didn't get that click. I would not put the pins in 'dry', that almost guarantees they'll seize up quickly. They just need to be clean and have a bit of proper lube on them, and probably if either has the little rubber bushing on the pin get that out of there. Edited December 31, 2015 by porcupine73 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Last time I changed the brake pads the ones I took off were like new.. So I kept them This time I looked at the bushings and the slide pin on the caliper,, The lower bushing was slow moving inside the caliper. So I used some brake cleaner and sprayed out the rubbers on the caliper , cleaned off the bushing and rubbed it down with syl-glide. I put the used pads on the caliper and took off the chrome clips that the pads normally sit on. They made it so tight that the pad wouldn't even go on with the clips on there. So im trying it this way to see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Those metal clips are actually really important. If the pads aren't sliding with the clips on that means either they're the wrong pads, or there is a build up rust and other corrosion. Take the clips off and clean that area with a wire brush and then chisels out all the junk that's in there. Re install the clips and they should slide much better. If they still don't....technically you should then be replacing the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I've seen quite a few pads seized in the bracket because of rust buildup under the shims. Saw one not long ago that the backing plate on the pad was bent because the pad couldn't move in the bracket. Make sure there is no rust scale buildup on the bracket like Porcupine said. Remove the shims and file or chisel the scale out. I've also had times when new pads were not cut properly and had to grind some material off the ends of the backing plate to get them to fit in the bracket. They should be able to move easily, but should not be so loose that they rattle around. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 make sure the hose didn't get twisted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I've also had times when new pads were not cut properly and had to grind some material off the ends of the backing plate to get them to fit in the bracket. They should be able to move easily, but should not be so loose that they rattle around. I hate this, my supplier just changed brands and all the new pads I get are like this, so now I have spend my time filing down the pads, then you have a non painted surface that will corode. I like to buy the kits that come with all new hardware, they seem to be better quality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I know! I wipe a gob of antiseize on the ends and hope for the best! Generally only takes a few seconds with a bench grinder to get the extra material off, but have to be very careful to not take too much off. I re-painted the ends one time and it just took way too long for the paint to dry. I Don't have all day to do a brake job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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