Frozen nuts/bolts, remedies?

[ThosL]

My friend Sam has been trying to help me to do the CV joint on my 99 Outback.  Unfortunately one strut bolt is still frozen as is the ball joint retaining bolt.  We tried lots of PB Blaster (Auto Zone had the lubrication PB, not the penetrating type which I got elsewhere).  I used a breaker bar with a Stanley 1/2 inch to 3/8 adapter which twisted off the adapter!

 

Sam was thinking the torch would be a way to loosen the bolt, I don't have one.  Are there any tricks here we are missing?

[porcupine73]

On the strut bolt, is it the top bolt? It's always best to turn the nut not the bolt, but on the top one (the camber bolt) you must turn the nut; the bolt pretty much won't turn due to its eccentrity. And right, 1/2" sockets/wrenches minimum for that if not 3/4". 3/8" unless it's maybe a high grade steel tool will not take that kind of torque. In my experience on the strut bolts it's usually not so much that they're rusted though they do rust and that does't help, it's more just that they're tight to begin with like 100 ft lb or so is the tightening torque if I remember correctly.

[ocei77]

First you don't need to remove the strut bolts to do an axle.

Turn axle so the bevel side faces you. Punch the pin out. Don't turn the wheel.

3/16 punch. 32mm for the axle nut. Good breaker bar (forget the harbor freight one for this), plus a cheater pipe.(that axle nut is REALLY on there)

Remove the sway bar bolt.

Remove cotter pin from lower ball joint and unscrew the castle nut (19mm). Pry the control arm down( you're not trying to remove the ball joint, so don't remove the bolt that secures it).

Now you can swing the hub assembly out. Just pull and it will come out of the tranny and tap the axle side out.

New axle bevel has to face the same way. Roll pin into bevel side. Axle side in. If the roll pin won't go all the way through ,the splines are off 180 deg.

The control arm up, it will stay in place. Tighten all nuts.  Torque the axle nut (@140 ft lbs) then stake it.

 

Before removing the strut bolts at any time (especially the upper) use a chisel to mark the nut and the bolt, this way they can go back the way they came out, saving you a realignment. If no impact gun, a 19mm to hold one side while you wrench on the other.

6 pt sockets and 1/2" drive are best. You need a penetrant of some type.

The fsm is available in the sticky above, 2nd page under my name.

 

O.

Edited January 1, 2016 by ocei77

[jelliff]

This is off topic to a degree, but not too far out. I have both a craftsman and a matco impact. Many many times the craftsman simply doesn't have the torque needed. Either I use a breaker bar for this or the matco impact. Easy breezy with both of these after several days of repetitive soaking with a penetrant. I also use pb from a gallon jug with a hand sprayer. Time and patience as well as a quality piece of equipment is what I've found necessary for these not so often tackled projects. Spray it down for a few days, if time allots. Good luck and happy new year.

[mikaleda]

50/50 Acetone and ATF works great for pentreant I use it all the time for stubborn bolts.

 

I agree with above comments, I always remove the LCA from the ball joint, not the ball joint from the hub, much easier and does much less damage. You will need at least a 36" good prybar and a mini sledge, put pressure on the ball joint with the bar and smack the LCA a few times and it should pop loose no problem.

[CNY_Dave]

Harbor freight ball-joint removal tool (fork and screw type) works well too.

[ThosL]

Thanks for the feedback; a friend tried to make progress and we were not able to, not the right tools, and the rentals at Auto Zone, etc. did not help.

[Fairtax4me]

I usually remove the upper strut bolt because it's easier than messing around with the lower ball joint.

 

Half inch breaker bar with a cheater pipe is usually what it takes to get the strut bolts loose if they haven't been touched in a long time. Spray them with PB and let it soak in. If the nut still won't crack loose, some heat from a propane torch will usually get it. Only heat the nut, and be careful of surrounding wiring (such as the ABS wire) and the brake hose.

[dp213]

I find the penetrating spray by sea foam works much better than anything else I have tried, including pb.

[forester2002s]

+1 on using a 6-point socket, instead of a 12-point socket.

[1 Lucky Texan]

if you decide to use the 'blue wrench' - you may not need to apply much heat at all. I got a SEVERELY rusted/frozen axle to slide out of an Impala with just 10-15 seconds of heat (each - at the 12 oclock and 6 position) from a propane torch. Doesn't need to glow red.

 

I bought an electric impact from Lowes and wish I had gotten one decades ago - if only for removing wheels. Maybe try to borrow an impact?

 

fairtax I think has suggested heating a problem part, then immediately spraying with penetrant (uh - be careful of flames) and letting the cooling part draw the penetrant deeper into the 'interstitial' space. Seems like an awesome idea. I may have done that accidentally when I was fighting that axle.

[mikaleda]

On real stubborn ones I typically heat them up a bit with a propane torch, just a bit then I soak it with pb blaster and let it sit. Once you do that a good box end wrench and a hammer makes a good poor mans impact.

[logic23]

map-gas ( the yellow bottle) burns hotter than propane.  They sell them at LOWES/ HOME DEPOT