1994 Legacy - starter does not work ! Help is hereby officially requested.

[Orion]

   1994 Legacy.

 

    Starter was replaced a few years ago, and the car has not been used much since. 

 

    Sometimes it would just click when trying to start. 

    If it would not start, jumper cables would remedy the problem.

    Now it wont do anything at all when trying to start it, even with jumper cables

    Battery is good

    Automatic trans 

    The "trigger" wire to the starter is reading 0 volts when the key is turned to the cranking position. 

    I do not believe that the starter itself is bad, I just think its not getting the 12v signal to energize the solenoid. 

    

    My best guess: Starter relay is failing/bad? 

 

    Help! Where is the relay located? Under the dash near the steering column? 

 

    Could it be something else? 

 

    I have attached pictures that should be of some use. 

[john in KY]

Pretty sure there is no starter relay. Current flows through the ignition switch directly to the starter solenoid. I'd suspect the ign switch.

Edited January 3, 2016 by john in KY

[Orion]

Thanks for the reply, can anyone confirm that there is no relay?

[naru]

Could be the neutral safety switch too.

Try starting in N instead of P.

[Fairtax4me]

Automatic trans the start voltage runs through the park/nuetral switch on the trans. Possible worn contact in the switch or a poor connection in the plug that goes to the switch.

[fgf]

Starting system wiring for 95 Subaru Legacy - which should be the same as the 94.

See

[987687]

I agree, it's probably the neutral safety acting up, I had the same problem on one of my cars. If you're in a pinch to get the engine started, jump a piece of wire from a positive terminal (battery or starter) to the spade connector on the starter. That should start the engine so you can move the car.

[porcupine73]

Here's one I had in my files for a '94. Obviously it would have either the MT interlocks _or_ the inhibitor switch for the AT. On my '96 it was the inhibitor switch that acted up. It actually did something very odd where it was not applying full voltage to the starter and the starter was cranking but more slowly than usual, I imagine it wasn't pulling the solenoid all the way in or something.

Edited January 3, 2016 by porcupine73

[mikaleda]

If the interlock is at fault sometimes you can put it in nutreul to get it to start since the nutreul contacts don't get used as much. Only the MT had a relay inline of the starter circuit and that was only so the clutch switch didn't have to carry the entire voltage of the trigger wire.

[Orion]

Good info guys, here is where it is at:

 

  In park: No click or power draw while trying to crank it. 

 

  In neutral: Clicks once and draws power (dash lights dim slightly) when key is turned to crank position. 

 

  Jumping the starter trigger wire directly to the battery: Click is much louder.(motor turned ever so slightly on first try, then stopped)

 

  So the starter is bad again, or the motor is seized, right?

Edited January 3, 2016 by Orion

[Fairtax4me]

Battery voltage may be too low, or battery cables/terminals are corroded. I would definitely suspect that if it has replacement terminals.

Also be sure to check the ground cable connection on the block.

 

Had a tractor starter run me around the mill earlier this week because of corroded cables.

[mikaleda]

Ya I would be looking into battery and connections myself. You can always take it to your local parts store and have battery and charging system checked for free.

[Cougar]

Like you suspected, there should be 12 volts getting to the starter solenoid. There is a bad connection somewhere between the ignition switch and the solenoid. Since the starter didn't crank well when you jumped power directly to the solenoid you either have a low battery, bad battery connections, or a bad cable due to internal wire corrosion. There should be at least 11 volts at the battery posts when the starter motor is working correctly and running.