heater core removal

[xMcCl3llandx]

hi i need to change my heater core in my 85 subaru brat and i was wondering the easiest way to pull the heater box out without pulling the whole dash

[turbosubarubrat]

You have to pull the whole dash to do it. Hardest part is the getting the 3 10mm bolts up top on and off with the windshield in.

Edited January 9, 2016 by turbosubarubrat

[xMcCl3llandx]

is there anyway i could cut the plastic and pull it out through there and put new one in?

[TomRhere]

The link to the "Old Subaru Repair Manual" seems to not work anymore.

There was a write-up in there on how to replace the core without pulling the dash.

 

Used it to do one myself.

 

Basics are;

Drain coolant,

Remove heater hoses from the tubes under the hood,

remove drivers seat to make under dash access a bit easier,

disconnect and remove the heater bypass/shut-off valve from the heater box, (a couple of hose connections, cable, and screws),

using a flat end for a soldering gun, cut around the heater housing where the core is located, (not an easy thing to do, but doable),

remove old core, install new core,

the section you cut out of the housing can be reattached with what ever method you want to use,

replace the valve and other items removed,

refit hoses under the hood, refill coolant,

enjoy the heat...

[xMcCl3llandx]

thanks for the helpful advice 

Edited January 9, 2016 by xMcCl3llandx

[jonas]

I used toms method, '85 brat as well.

 I still might have some pics, i'll look.

 

EDIT: Looked, no pics.

Edited January 9, 2016 by jonas

[Trident]

EA82 Heater Core Replacement by Moosens 12-2004

****************************************************************************************

 

Disconnect battery ground

 

Remove the front seats

 

Remove the gasket plate that the heater core inlet and outlet tubes pass through as they go through the firewall.

 

Good idea to disconnect the speedometer cable from the tranny to give some slack towards the dash.

 

Remove center consoles from underdash to emergency brake/center compartment piece.

 

It's ok to leave the radio in but you can take some weight off the dash if you take it out now.

 

Disconnect antenea wire at shoulder of transmission hump up by the driver's feet.

 

You'll also want to disconnect the cable that goes to the heater box.

 

There's a vacuum hose to pull off of the heaterbox as well, all on the driver's side right near each other.

 

Remove the underside dash panels.

 

Remove the glovebox at this point with just one screw at the hinge base and slide it towards the other hinge to remove.

 

On the passenger side disconnect the connectors by the door and you can get the vacuum tube as well, or get it when the dash begins to come off.

 

On the driver's side the only things to disconnect are what goes through the firewall.

 

Remove the fusebox with three screws and let it hang.

 

Disconnect the harness under the steering wheel.

Mark the connectors for the high beam lever and the ignition as the connectors look the same. the high beams will engage the starter if they are mixed up.

 

Then drop the computer by loosening the three nuts and sliding it towards the rear of the car. Disconnect it and tuck it away.

 

Drop the steering wheel with 2 bolts.The wheel should be free to drop.

 

There's a chance you may have to disconnect a cruise control processor.

 

Dashboard fastners are 10mm. You'll see three covers to remove across the top. There's also a cover on each end on the front of the dash facing the seats.

 

Raise the dash and rest it diagonally using the steering wheel as a rest, driver's side of dash forward, pass. side to rear. That gives enough room to get the heater unit out.

 

First, to disconnect the ductwork squeeze the band clip.

 

Leave the rear section right there on the duct and just lift and remove the front part of the band clip.

 

Unbolt the heaterbox at top. Be sure to have the center console brackets removed for ease and safety.

 

Disconnect the ground wire off the box there. You can slice the carpet in the center to make it a little easier to remove.

 

The ducts going to the rear seats need to be bent to allow the heaterbox outlets to be free. Bend the ducts gently and try not to crease them severely.

 

From the passenger's side, remove the heaterbox tipping the top slightly downward toward the rear of the car as you slide the unit rearward.

 

Once it's off the mount go around to the driver's side to get it free from the car as the ductwork and dash are in the way from the passenger's side.

 

Now remove the core from the box.

 

Clean the box up with some cleaner and replace the foam with some dense foam that is already sticky-backed.

 

Replace core.

 

Insert the box making the tubes go through the firewall, get it in place, bolt it up with the top 10mm inside the car.

 

Go outside and install the gasketplate,and hoses.

 

Put the dash back and remember to install the vacuum hose on the passenger side.

 

Make sure the speedometer is in and hook up the cable for the heater control, and connect the vacuum and the antenna all right near each other.

 

On the driver's side,connect the jungle being careful and hopefully not colorblind. The connectors mostly all fit only where they belong with each other.

 

Assemble in reverse order of above.

[ragingbull]

I just removed my dash due to engine swap and changed my heater core just because. I wouldn't try ripping/melting the core out with the dash in it. There's too much to damage on the way out.. If I had to replace my core at a later date I think pulling the dash would be easier/faster than trying to rip that core out of there.. 

[skishop69]

Ummmm.... Trident, that's a write up for EA82's. Brats are EA81. Totally different creature.

[moosens]

You can cut the housing on the ea81's -

[xMcCl3llandx]

Cut it out and replaced it... Works great

[Trident]

 

Ummmm.... Trident, that's a write up for EA82's. Brats are EA81. Totally different creature.

whoops, apologies for the mistake!

[Dave Fox]

For anyone considering replacing a clogged heater core, at least try unclogging it first to save a lot of work. (This suggestion of course is not for those with a leaking heater core.) My heater core in a 1986 Subaru GL with 250,000 miles was so clogged only about 5% or 10% of the coolant flow and heat transfer occurred. The barely tepid air temperature at the heater outlets wasn't enough to defrost the windshield. I had tried pressure flushing the core with plain water with no effect. 10 years of nearly no heat haunted me until this year.

But I finally fixed the clog by removing both heater core hoses from the engine, filling them and the heater core with white vinegar, and draining the heater core and flushing it after 18 hours. That dissolved whatever had clogged the heater core. Now when outside temperature is about 30 degrees F, I can get hot air out of the heater vents when the car is idling at up to 180 F measured by an infrared thermometer. Now the Subaru is toasty warm on cold winter nights.

[turbosubarubrat]

Mine wouldn't transfer heat. I got good flow out of it but just by running water through it backwards but it didn't change anything. Then i tried scolding hot vinegar in it and let it sit for a day. Same thing after i flushed it still no heat. I kind of think it had some hard build up from the valve being closed most of its life or somebody used some form of stop leak in the system.