coolhandluke Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Edit* Moved to members rides build tread section. Picked it up in Seattle drove it back to Oakland. 1200 miles later. Adventure approved! Rambn Wagon is a weekend adventure vehicle. A sweet update from my 87 Wagon Gl "Leon" My first Soob. Stoked to have got this awesome wagon through USMB. Nice guy up in Seattle. Thanks! Previous owners have put some nice workin into project. Only fitting it seams most of the work was done somewhere in the WA forest at a subaru custom garage. Fellow named Lance Telling made the rear bumer/Spare arm. And did most the work on the vehicle as far as I am aware. Not sure if you're on USMB but good job dude Where she sits 140k Dual range Swap Rear Disc 15s Pugs Intake rotate "Under hood snokel" Custom rear Bumper Tire Arm Plans Lift 2inch Square DL HID Headlight swap Maxima Alt conversion Suspension- Rear -Toyota KYB with Stock Spring Front -Stock ford spings if I can find at local picknpull Custom- steel round Front light bar/bumper Winch under bumper mount Skid plate Roof Basket Fold out tow tongue Current issues to fix 1) Only had one "field" fix on drive down the Coast. After a very loud first drive. Felt around breathing in exhaust till I found the hot air blasting out of the exhaust man gasket. Only 4 bolts, 2 new gaskets and 10$ in A cold walmart parking lot should have only taken 30 min. but of course even after long PB Bastr soak. The last bolt came out thread full of Alu so. back to O'reillies for tap and bolts... Held the whole trip... tap job was not clean but it held for 1200 miles. so im happy with it for now. BUT... there must be more exhaust leaks cause damn! she smells at idle.. Going to switch some stuff from Gl this weekend to try to pass smog next week. If i sniff around under the hood I always go to EGR valve area. Thinking a new gasket and a good clean might help. But also going to search around when I have more time and check vacuum leaks. Whats best way? spray something and looking for idle increase? Any areas I should check first or advice would be appreciated! 2) Has a slight lifter tick on port side and valve cover leak on other side... 3) Etape CEL fix needs to be sorted out. Right now im thinking to try n rewire to adjacent light so that it behaves like it should on key turn to pass smog. Need to check for codes but previous owner said it has been perm on since D/r trans swap... Don't understand what would cause that to go chasing right now so the electrical trick is easier i hope.. just to get through smog.. Anyone Ever had problems with D/r swap into Loyale i'm assuming its from a GL judging on center console but that could be from different what ever its from it looks fresh! nice and clean! Alright here some photos! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason_91Loyale Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 So I'm brand new to the subaru scene and I just bought a Loyale with 230k miles on it. I realized it has pushbutton 4wd... So which is better for doing serious off roading, Duel range or push button? I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I'm still confused on the whole thing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolhandluke Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Mason, They are different 4wd systems, push button is solenoid controlled and engages all 4 wheels with power but in more of a AWD style. I think... while the 4WD dual / range is a manual gear engagement. of a LOW or HI gearing option. This is preferred in a off road applications for the gearing options as well as how transfer of power to the wheels is better. er.. uh yeah, thats about as far as I go dude. read up on other members builds. There is all the info you could ever try to learn . All the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiGL Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) The above poster is a little confused. Both the push-button 4WD and the dual-range are front wheel drive (FWD) under normal tarmac driving. The 4wd button activates a vacuum solenoid that engages the coupling and thus the rear wheels. Moving the 4wd lever to the 4wd position achieves the same thing in a dual-range. The difference is that in the dual-range, you can move the 4wd lever up one more notch and engage the 1.59:1 dual-range gearing, which allows you to climb and descend steep slopes safely and/or do hill starts with a trailer on (the Subie low range has syncromesh so can be shifted whilst moving). Neither gearbox is a true all wheel drive (AWD) setup as neither has a centre differential and as such these vehicles are designed to be 4wd on loose surfaces, like gravel, only and not AWD for street use. Engaging 4wd on asphalt will risk damaging the gearbox, axles, tyres etc. Only the rare (2500 sold) RX turbo had a true AWD gearbox with a lockable centre differential and a 1.19:1 dual-range, as far as the EA chassis vehicles are concerned. As far as EJ chassis vehicles are concerned, they are full-time AWD with a viscous centre differential with no locking mechanism. Some markets eg New Zealand, did get a dual-range manual transmission however. I owned one, a 2002 Forester. Also had a 1987 GTX Turbo touring wagon (3AT though). The above is true for manual subies only. Also, cool wagon man, always loved the EA82 wagons. The rear tyre carrier is mint. Looks like your roof racks are for a raised roof touring wagon though! Edited January 30, 2016 by KiwiGL 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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