1986Brat Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Brat Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Second image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 perhaps need to clamp it with aligator clips to help it stay in place Also what helps is to remark the 3 sets of corresponding timing marks (lined up) with twink / white out before removing old belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Drivers side cam is under tension. Its always tough to get it to stay. Use an end wrench, keep trying, it will stay if your gentle . Pass side cam is not under tension so its the one you let roll up to the final mark as you bring the new belt into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Use a wrench or breaker bar and turn slowly. Don't fear bending valves. When the cam snaps over like that its because the valve springs are pushing back and the valves are closing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Brat Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Thanks guys, I'll try again in a few minutes. For some reason I figured the valves were supposed to be closed while at the correct position, this thing is a little more complicated than my lawnmowers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Yes it is a bit touchy when in the right position. I've found that wooden clothes pins are really handy to hold the belt in place whilst getting everything lined up. Of course it has to be bang on, there's no such thing a 'close', it's either right or it's off a tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Brat Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Well the timing belt is on, everything looked lined up, I turned the engine over like 5 times and it went smoothly. Is it safe to say I did it right? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Do the timing marks on all three sprockets line up after rotating the engine? Only need to turn the crank twice. If the marks line up its good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 +1^ Note the cam and crank marks. The belt marks will not line up again. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Brat Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Yes, the marks all lined back up, was very surprised I got it right the first time. My normal half-assery is not compatible with engine work. Thank you for the help, gentlemen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logic23 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 yeah just double check the tensioner for excessive play and ALWAYS REPLACE THE 3 IDLER PULLEYS. The cogged one is what fails and takes your valves out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Brat Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Yes, I replaced the water pump, all pulleys, and tensioner. Somehow a water pump bolt hole stripped out at like 5 ft-lbs but a helicoil was a quick fix. Now I know you are always supposed to replace valve cover gaskets after removal, but mine looked like new so I reused them. Has anyone successfully reused these things before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Yes , I reuse them all the time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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