protivakid Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Torque converter was attached to the engine when I removed the transmission. Have read through the threads about re-seating and not damaging the oil pump so I am not asking about that. Is there a way to check I didn't damage the oil seal and is there a guide or pics on replacing the seal? I searched but couldn't find much. Anything else to worry about from my two pics? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 When you look into the tranny you will see the tabs that mate with the notches on the TC. Insert TC, lift an rotate. keep upward pressure as you rotate. It will catch. Keep rotating pushing inwards. It will jump @ two more times. It is fully seated when the outside mounting tabs are about 3/8 of an inch from the tranny block looking from above Before mounting the engine. Give it a few insurance turns to make sure it is fully seated. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protivakid Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 When you look into the tranny you will see the tabs that mate with the notches on the TC. Insert TC, lift an rotate. keep upward pressure as you rotate. It will catch. Keep rotating pushing inwards. It will jump @ two more times. It is fully seated when the outside mounting tabs are about 3/8 of an inch from the tranny block looking from above Before mounting the engine. Give it a few insurance turns to make sure it is fully seated. O. Thanks for the reply. I read how to seat it but my question was around the oil seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Replace the seal. Once that dirt around the seal gets in it eats the seal up. Doesn't matter how careful you are cleaning it and getting it put back in, that seal will fail. Might be 6 months, might only be 10 minutes. $15 is cheap insurance. There is a circlip in there that often gets bent and will prevent the converter from sliding back on all the way. You need to fish the circlip out and install it back on the converter tube before installing the converter. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protivakid Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Replace the seal. Once that dirt around the seal gets in it eats the seal up. Doesn't matter how careful you are cleaning it and getting it put back in, that seal will fail. Might be 6 months, might only be 10 minutes. $15 is cheap insurance. There is a circlip in there that often gets bent and will prevent the converter from sliding back on all the way. You need to fish the circlip out and install it back on the converter tube before installing the converter. Sure, I'll contact the dealer for the seal. Any special way to press it in tool or depth wise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Pretty sure there is a shoulder inside the snout that the seal buts against. Usually you can press those in most of the way by hand just by wiping some fresh ATF on the outer circumference of the seal. Finish tapping it in with a dull punch or 1/4" drive socket extension. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protivakid Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Pretty sure there is a shoulder inside the snout that the seal buts against. Usually you can press those in most of the way by hand just by wiping some fresh ATF on the outer circumference of the seal. Finish tapping it in with a dull punch or 1/4" drive socket extension. Just to make sure I'm not a moron, the seal in question is the rubber ring you can clearly see on the front of the bell housing in my second pic, right? Or are you referring to the "seal ring" that's deeper in there? Also will the c-clip cut the seal when I go to put it back in? To get the torque converter back in it was suggested to remove the inner oil pump shaft, attach it to the converter with the c-clip in place, and put it in as a unit. Is the c-clip small enough where it won't hit? Diagram to help the convo along: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Just to make sure I'm not a moron, the seal in question is the rubber ring you can clearly see on the front of the bell housing in my second pic, right? Or are you referring to the "seal ring" that's deeper in there? Also will the c-clip cut the seal when I go to put it back in? To get the torque converter back in it was suggested to remove the inner oil pump shaft, attach it to the converter with the c-clip in place, and put it in as a unit. Is the c-clip small enough where it won't hit? Diagram to help the convo along: Yes, the seal is the one sitting in the bellhousing. The C-clip is small enough that there's little risk of dragging it against the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
protivakid Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Yes, the seal is the one sitting in the bellhousing. The C-clip is small enough that there's little risk of dragging it against the seal. Thanks! So to put it in just use something dull and put it at the same depth like the stock one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Seal-puller is cheap and useful, some folks drill a small hole and thread in a sheet-metal or wood screw and pull with pliers. Yes, just put it at the same depth, usually seals like that go in flush with the end of the hole they are seating into. If that one is set in a bit, just set it in the same amount. Once you get it out you will probably see a surface it seats against. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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