Snowbum2420 Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 I have taken my crank shaft pulley off and know I need to get a new one. I am wondering if I am going to have to replace this other piece that the crank shaft fits onto though. I know I need a Woodruff key for it as well but will buying a new pulley and a woodruff key and putting it on fix my car. Or do I need to fix this other piece inside here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Looks like that key is sheared. Ideally yes you'd replace the key but I think that requires removing the crank sprocket that you can see in the pic, which requires removing the timing belt, so that could get involved quickly. I believe someone in another thread said you can just put the new crank pulley ('harmonic balancer') and tighten the bolt really good and it should be fine. It looks like the keyway itself isn't damaged (though from a pic it's hard to tell) so that's good. If the crank bolt loosened up sometimes that hogs out the keyway which makes for a harder repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 So do you think I will have to take the crank sprocket out to do this? Or if I buy a pulley and tighten it to 140ft it will be ok? I just don't have much money right now to put into this vehicle but I need something to get me to work. I am tired of hitch hiking and walking. Should I just try to sale this as is and if so how much do you think I could get out of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 A cat I think might know whether just tightening the bolt would work would be grossgary. If everything else seems good with the vehicle it's probably worth trying to fix, as in / if you sell it as is you won't get as much, and if you would have to buy some other vehicle with unknown other issues then it could be a worse situation. One question is - why did the key shear? Did something seize up, or did the crank pulley bolt loosen (common if it wasn't tightened enough after a timing belt job - but this generally damages the keyway too), or did the crank pulley rubber part start to separate (though I don't think that usually shears the key). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 I am assuming the bolt just became loose because just one day my belt slipped off and then I was able to turn the bolt with just my fingers. So I took the pulley off today to check out the problem and this is what I found inside. The pulley is all ground down as well. There is a notch that fits around the key and its pretty much ground down smooth. I have had the vehicle for 8 months and this just happened. The timing belt was done before I got it and looking at the paper work it was done about a year before I got the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 How do I get in touch with Grossgary? Hahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 I am hoping that if I buy a new pulley from the store that I can just put it back on and tighten it down to 140 but my luck this seams like it probably will not be the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) I'd pull the timing cover, clean out all the junk. If the T-belt and pulleys need to be replaced do it! You have an interference engine and if the timing goes, you will most likely bend valves. It will most likely be hard to remove the crank gear, but you can get it if you file any displaced metal and carefully work it off. Once it's off you can inspect the keyway and see how much damage there is to the crankshaft. I have had keys welded into the keyway and then replaced the gear and HB. It's still running fine. There is a company that sells a kit to mount the HB to the gear, using roll pins. Not cheap, but cheaper than a new engine. If you get a new key and HB in and then torque the bolt it will most likely last. I have HB and a key I could send to you if your in no rush. $25 shipped, USPS Priority. Edited January 13, 2016 by lmdew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 So I found a new HB and Key at a store here in Asheville. If I get those and put them on the crank gear will they stay or do I need to fix something on the crank gear to make it stay? Why do I need to remove the crank gear to inspect the crankshaft? The timing belt was done not long ago. Is this a must to take all of this stuff off to fix the crank pulley and key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Yes, the crank gear has to be removed to get a new key in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Well codswallop me. Thats not what I wanted to hear at all. Lol. Ok so I guess I will pull all of this off and then get back on here when its off to figure out what else to do. How does the crank gear come off? Pull the crank case off and then do I have to remove the timing belt as well? This is turning into a huge head ache. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Why do I need to remove the crank gear to inspect the crankshaft? The timing belt was done not long ago. Is this a must to take all of this stuff off to fix the crank pulley and key?If you want to replace the key, I don't think you'll be able to replace it without removing the crank sprocket/gear, because the key extends underneath that gear as well (the same key is under both the crank gear and pulley). This thread might be helpful to you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101600-forester-99-crankshaftpulleykeyway-problem/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Thanks. It looks like I am just going to sale this car for parts or junk. Because I have to do this, a speed sensor, brakes, cv axles. Pretty much got fucked I think on this buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowbum2420 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Thanks for the help guys. I will try just putting a new one on and tightening this spoob out of it. If that does not work I am going to call a junk yard and see how much I can get for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) Ok hope it works out. If you don't want to keep it if you can tighten the spoob out and get it running you will almost always be able to get more a running driveable car say on craigslist with the known issues rather than selling as scrap. Really though mechanically the front axles aren't too hard to change, brakes aren't too hard to repair, speed sensor can be replaced, obviously any used car getting up near 20 years old is going to have some issues, and brakes especially. On the plus side, you have a '90s soob with a 2.2L engine - a very good vintage which often will keep on ticking for many years with a bit of care. I don't know, scrapping it and then buying a different used car with other unknown issues is kind of a roll of the dice in my book unless you have it checked over first or know everything to look at to minimize chances of getting a lemon. Edited January 13, 2016 by porcupine73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) sounds like my cars twin. bought it cheap cv's are going bad brakes were shot needed an oil pan speed sensor is iffy and sometimes does not work right away and my harmonic damper came off about a half a year after purchase. i torqued mine back on at 150. its not coming off again. Edited January 14, 2016 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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