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Have a 2009 Legacy NA with 5MT. Has a whine under acceleration coming from front of car. Pitch of the sound increases with speed. Noise is present but noticeably quieter coasting. Noise does not change when turning. Sounds like it is coming from front center, but can't be positive (could be more on passenger side).

 

No, it is not an exhaust leak, vacuum hose, alternator bearing, etc.

 

First thought was CV - but sound doesn't change when turning, no clunk,clunk,clunk

Second thought was wheel bearing - but sound gets quieter when not accelerating (ie 30 mph and accelerating to 40 is louder than coasting from 40 down to 30).

Lube level in diff is ok.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Edited by awsmdad
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Has the CV axle ever been replaced?  A Subaru axle wouldn't likely make that noise.  Aftermarket axles are trash and can probably fail in limitless ways.

 

Load based CV axle symptoms are due to the inner axle joint, not the outer where the typical clicking symptom related to turning occurs.  
The focus here, if any, would be on the inner joint, not the outer. 

I've never seen an inner joint only make noise - they usually have some vibration associated with them. 


Does yours have any vibration associated with it?

 

Whine under load with no other symptoms is usually the front diff.  Probably a bearing.

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No recent service, other than engine oil last month.

 

Car has 60K miles. No modifications, nothing replaced other than gas, oil, filters. Wasn't expecting any mechanical issues.

 

Slight vibration with the sound.

 

Any advice on how to troubleshoot inner axel vs. front diff bearing?

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it's cheap if you DIY, might help diagnose - swap axles side-to-side. See if the sound changes - moves to the other side or gets better or worse....?

 

also, sometimes failing wheel bearings will get hotter than their mate on the other side - use infrared remote therm after a highway run. more than - um, maybe consistently 20-30 + degrees difference after several tests I'd guess would be suspect?

 

lift each corner - try to 'rock' wheel up-down - 12 oclock to 6 oclock. any movement is suspect wheel bearing. Compare sides. I had a rear bearing bad in my WRX - moved about 2-3mm. other side was solid.

 

did you do the oil change yourself?

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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Texan - Will jack up car tonight if I get out of work at a decent time. Can check bearings at least. Axel swap likely wait for the weekend. Yes, oil change myself. Prefer full synthetic and no way to know what the quick lube guys have in the tank. Nice people I'm sure.

 

Dave - Sound is similar idea. Not exactly the same (could be cell phone audio, stationary car in garage vs highway). Follows same pattern. My issue isn't quite as loud and a little different pitch, but could be the recording. I may also have caught it a little sooner. Was really hoping it wasn't in the front diff.

 

Little internet searching.....that looks like a serious pain in the a@@.

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Trannies will usually fit from car to car, but gearing is usually different from Forester to legacy or outback. Definitely find out tranny gearing and match it or you will have big problems in the future. Tranny has to match the rear diff gearing.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hello, all!!! I need some advice...I am getting a high whine during acceleration, but, not while coasting/decelerating. In addition, steering 'grabs' when turning. Had both front axles replaced a couple weeks ago, with aftermarket axles (due to budget restraints.) I read on here someone suggested that the differential fluid needs/should be changed and/or checked: is this a common problem and is that the most common solution? Also, I have Class 6 to 8 (medium to heavy) truck mechanic experience (I was a truck-driver for 20 years with a million-plus logged miles, so, I have experience) but, with minimal experience on the lesser-weighted vehicles and little-to-no experience with AWD, although I have some experience with 4wd and limited-slip differentials on drive tandems in big-trucks. Please advise.

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could be 2 problems

 

the steering issue could the cardan/double u-joint coupler going to the rack. If the steering feels like it grabs in the same place in its rotation particularly.

 

is there any whining when you are idling - or idling and turning the wheel? look in the power steering tank for bubbles/foam - could be air getting sucked into the fluid. Tha can sometimes cause a quik, repetitive jerking/vibration feeling in the steering wheel, but not always.

 

it's possible there's an issue with the axles - maybe one isn't fully seated in the diff.

 

I think you should consider a new thread on your car's problem(s)

 

more details about the car needed

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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  • 1 year later...

All -

 

Quite a bit late, but thought would post for future reference to anyone googling.

 

My issue was the gearing in the front of the transmission. Online the parts can be had, but limited by time (day job and family, can't afford to be without car for any time), turned oer to dealer. Cost was $1200, quite a bit more but got a newloaner car for the wife to drive and didn't need to give up my weekend (family happy).

 

So, anyone searching, all wheel drive subaru, noise and slight vibration from front end under power, goes away when coasting, no difference turning, check transmission.

 

Enjoy!

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All -

 

Quite a bit late, but thought would post for future reference to anyone googling.

 

My issue was the gearing in the front of the transmission. Online the parts can be had, but limited by time (day job and family, can't afford to be without car for any time), turned oer to dealer. Cost was $1200, quite a bit more but got a newloaner car for the wife to drive and didn't need to give up my weekend (family happy).

 

So, anyone searching, all wheel drive subaru, noise and slight vibration from front end under power, goes away when coasting, no difference turning, check transmission.

 

Enjoy!

Thanks for the follow up. Do you know if they replaced a bearing(s) or the ring and pinion?

 

That price is shockingly good for that job and at a dealer. That's a sizable job and requires good diagnosis to justify a proper repair and many places will quote much higher amounts and replace everything or a new trans. Most people opt for a used trans but you know have at least new bearings, maybe new ring and pinion and a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty.

 

Ring and pinion is like $600-$900 in parts only, hard to imagine labor only being $500 for that job.

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