lombardcowboy96 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 hello... I need some help... I have a 1993 subaru legacy wagon.... I have checked the engine codes numerous times.... now after fixing the part... and disconnecting the battery... now when I connect the 2 wires to make the engine light flash the codes.... now it will just blink steadily.....instead of flashing the morris code for engine codes.... again this is after the part was replaced... and only when the 2 diagnostic wires are connected.... when everything is in normal driving mode the check engine light does not come on and the car runs fine..... so why would it steadily blink instead of either not being lit up or flashing the trouble codes.... does anyone know what this means??? thank you! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Isn't it supposed to steadily when the wires are connected and no codes are stored? It's been a while since I've worked on those. When the test connectors are unplugged if there is no light on, there are no codes stored. So checking for a stored code is pointless. What is this part you had replaced? Nobody on here has telekinesis. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 I replaced the coolant temp. sensor.. and the throttle position sensor.. it would start fine if it sat for a couple hours...... mind you its cold here in the mornings..like 17 degree's... then if I started it again after driving it, it would have a really rough idle and the check engine light would come on....then go back off in about 3-4 min and everything worked just fine again..... I heard in a couple threads that the coolant temp. sensor should be replaced.... and I checked for codes to see if any would come up.... but it just flashes consistently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Yes, if there are no codes, and the wires are connected, it will just flash 'slow' or long pulses. I found that out on my '94. So unhook the connector and it should b all set. Is it still having issues? What were the codes you read from the light before replacing the parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 00sadly it is still acting up.... it is still suffering from a rough idle for like 2 min after start up... but only when the engine is warm.... if it is cold it starts and holds the idle just fine..... the codes where o2 sensor and knock sensor...and a injector ...I believe number 3...which was replaced with a used checked one....The knock sensor was replaced like 2 years ago....with a new one off of ebay.... and the o2 sensor is about 3 years old....the car has 217,000 miles on it... would a fuel pump be going now??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I doubt the fuel pump is at fault. One of the fuel monitoring sensors is messing up and it sounds like a temp sensor. Its acting as if the choke is stuck on, so that would be the coolant temp sensor for the ecu, the two pronged one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 well, one possible test for fuel starvation might be to spray some carb cleaner into the intake when it is stumbling/missing. If it seems to smooth out - could be starved for fuel ? kinda wonder what the plugs look like and if they all look the same. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 93 huh - some older soobs had intermittent crank angle sensors - but they would usually fail 'hard' when warmed up. (uh - 93 doesn't have a disty right?) does it have a MAF - those sometimes are intermittent. maybe tap on it and see if there's any change in idle? might need a cleaning too? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) No North America EJ engine never had a distributor (some other markets had TBI and carbs etc). It does have a MAF sensor, only clean it with MAF cleaner. Anything else will damage the sensor. Fuel pumps generally either work or don't work, it's really uncommon to have a middle ground. Grounding kits don't improve engine performance, a new stock coil probably won't improve engine performance. Aftermarket coil packs tend to fry the igniter module. If the engine cranks fast and the alternator charges properly there isn't a grounding issue. Plug wires can get old and start "leaking" spark when they warm up. Ie. spark jumps from the wire to the engine block, not to the spark plug. If you haven't done so, pull your spark plugs and check for wear or proper gap. Edited January 20, 2016 by 987687 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 thank you to everyone!!! I don't have any friends in the town we live in so this website really helps!!! So I have replaced the coolant temp sensor already!!! I also replaced both #1 and 3 fuel injectors. I also replaced the Throttle position sensor. I have not cleaned the maf sensor for about 8 months.. the spark plugs were from 2013 and they are NGK's and not their base model... I also did the spark plug wires then too. I just replaced the battery in feb of 2015 ...with a optima yellow top. I just can't figure this out... since it is now throwing the check engine light on I will read it and let everyone know what it says... sorry my responses have been slow... we have baby number 2 at home and on oxygen so things have been busy.... car problems don't help...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 NGK copper plugs are actually the best, the fancy ones actually don't work as well in these cars. The cheapo coppers are the best ones to use. When you replaced the TPS did you properly adjust it? I can't remember the full adjustment details on the TPS, however it's listed in the FSM and other places online. If it's not adjusted it can cause a funky idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 ok so rookie mistake I just replaced it and got it as close as I could ...don't really know the "correct" installation process..... don't have a multimeter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Since they're all different, you can't just guess. Just because one was clocked in one position, doesn't mean the next one will be properly calibrated in the same position. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 so does anyone know how to do it the right way??? can you do it without a multi meter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 You have to check for a certain resistance when the throttle is closed, I believe. It's been a while since I've installed one and can't remember the exact process. It's in the service manual which you can find online. I don't know how you'd do it without a meter, just get one for like $10 at harbor freight or amazon. It'll come in useful doing other things on the car as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 ok so the car is saying the codes are the knock sensor and 2 injectors.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 ok so the car is saying the codes are the knock sensor and 2 injectors....Makes sense, two most common failures on these cars. Go on eBay and buy a cheap knock sensor, should be about $10-$15. Get a used set of injectors, take the rail and all and swap them out for yours. The red topped injectors on the newer subies seem to work better than the old gray tops. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy96 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 thank you very much for the advice!!! I will order a knock sensor today.... and look for some used injectors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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