d0s4d1 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hi everybody! I could use some advice . . . . . After my oil change the Valvoline guys had trouble getting my hood closed, and used a screwdriver to push down the hood-release cable. (it was sticking) Yes, they put the screwdriver through something they shouldn't have I had *just* had the coolant changed at the Subaru dealership because I'm aware of the typical head gasket issues. Mine is a 2006 EJ253, so I think it's low-risk, but it still pays to be cautious. So what was in my cooling system was the right stuff with the right additive (official Subaru stop-leak). Valvoline pulled off my radiator before realizing they actually had stabbed the air conditioning exchanger. So I've got my original radiator. I was *very specific* I didn't want any of their coolant in my car, but they topped it off with their product (probably XEREX) when they reassembled. * Is this going to be ok? They say Valvoline supplies Subaru's coolant. If that's the case, why shouldn't I just have them do it (giving them a bottle of the official additive to mix in) rather than pay 3x as much at the dealership? But if the Valvoline XEREX coolant isn't the right stuff, I'll probably be continuing to go to the dealer for that. My immediate concern is that I don't want the Subaru coolant/additive to react badly with the XEREX and plug my radiator or heater core. My long-term concern is that I want to not have to do a head gasket job on this car for a very long time if possible. Looking for some good advice from those who know these things! Thank you ~Nicole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Unless their stuff is blue and said Subaru on it, it's not the Subaru stuff. Mixing coolant types is generally not a good idea, and I really doubt they totally flushed the system before refilling it with their stuff, so if they totally removed the radiator, you've got about 85% their stuff and maybe 15% Subaru stuff left in there. If you can get them to totally drain and refill the system then it should be fine. BUT you just paid good money to have Subaru coolant put in! I would make them pay to have it flushed and refilled again by Subaru. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 If the Valvoline coolant is a long life universal coolant, then it wont do any damage. It will not gel up and plug your heater core. However it wont protect your head gaskets. It may with the Subaru additive in it, but if they completely drained your radiator to remove it, then what is in there now is too diluted to do its job. Since you just had the coolant changed at the dealer, you have the right to be fully restored and that means another drain and fill at the dealership with the additive or they go to the dealership and buy the correct coolant and additive and they put it in themselves, with you watching. There is not a lot of difference between various coolants for automotive use. There are two basic types of antifreeze, ethylene glycol which is the most common and propylene glycol which is much less toxic and sometimes preferred by people with pets or who live in environmentally sensitive areas. They can mix together but that is not recommended. The biggest difference is in the corrosion inhibitor package. The older type that was used for many years is inorganic acid technology (IAT). It uses phosphates and silicates. These are short lived requiring frequent changes and where know to cause wear on water pump bearings. These are rare today and are not recommended by any manufacturer. GM first came out with a phosphate and silicate free antifreeze known as Dexcool. Dexcool uses organic acid technology (OAT) and lasts a lot longer than IAT. But OAT and IAT do not play well together, this is the combination that is porported to gel up when mixed. There are other manufacturers that use this type antifreeze. The newest type is a hybrid organic acid technology that is universal. It will mix with either of the other types and is not the most common over the counter antifreeze sold. It has a little phosphates because that protects aluminum a little better, but not enough to wear out the cooling system, and it lasts just as long as the OAT antifreezes. Now when some minimum wage guy at an oil change place tells you that the supplier they use also makes the stuff the factory uses, he is partly right, but he is enough wrong to cause you problems. Car manufacturers do not make their own coolant, they buy it from various oil companies that do make it. But what they make for the vehicle manufacturer is made and formulated to that vehicle manufacturers specifications. Its a custom blend. It is not necessarily the same as the over the counter stuff, but there usually not a lot of difference. The same chemicals are there, but maybe in slightly different proportions. The vehicle manufacturers buy from several different suppliers, so just about any over the counter antifreeze company also sells to all the manufacturers, so they can all lay claim to supplying to the factory. Bottom line, the stuff Valvoline put in will do no harm, but it may not be what you want and originally paid for. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0s4d1 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) They saved my coolant and poured it back in, and just added a half quart of their coolant. I *think*. They weren't too specific and I'm not sure I can totally trust what they're telling me. Mine was never long-life stuff. It was the green Subaru coolant that the dealer put in. Normal green coolant. Edited January 23, 2016 by d0s4d1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0s4d1 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 If the Valvoline coolant is a long life universal coolant, then it wont do any damage. It will not gel up and plug your heater core. Bottom line, the stuff Valvoline put in will do no harm, but it may not be what you want and originally paid for. Thank you for putting my mind at ease regarding the compatibility of the coolants. I'm not sure whether to pursue this with them or not, but I might. I just don't *know* exactly what's in it now, and I like to know what's in my car. Honestly I'm on the fence as to whether I'm going to let them change the oil on any of my cars ever again. Fool me once, fool me twice, shame on you and all that . . . . Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I have had people at the auto parts store brow beat me into trying to get me to buy the expensive stuff in a EJ22?? My car has bigger problems and I doubt a scientific analysis would reveal any risk to engines in most all cases of the usual store antifreeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0s4d1 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 I have had people at the auto parts store brow beat me into trying to get me to buy the expensive stuff in a EJ22?? My car has bigger problems and I doubt a scientific analysis would reveal any risk to engines in most all cases of the usual store antifreeze. I used to have a Japanese-built Impreza 2.2 from 1997. Those didn't have the head gasket issues of the 2.5 liter engines. I loved that 2.2 engine. Great little car, still on the road because I know the family whose kid I sold it to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0s4d1 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 I think I'm going to leave the coolant as-is for the next 23,000 miles then change it again with dealer fluid and dealer additive. After reading more, I'm also going to quickly prioritize repairing the broken engine ground strap I found in November when I was underneath, and make sure I get my oil changed more frequently (3000 instead of 4000ish miles). Seems having old fluids and broken grounds will accelerate head gasket problems. I think my coolant is ok, though, and my head gaskets seem to be holding up ok on this car. Thanks everyone for your help!If anyone is reading this, in the future, I found great information on this forum here --> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142786-2007-outback-25-sohc-head-leaking-oil/?hl=ej253&do=findComment&comment=1199687 subnz Advanced Member Members 102 posts Glenorchy New Zealand Posted 06 December 2013 - 02:11 AM One of the problems with Subaru boxer engines is that because they're in a flat configuration the oil and water in their engines stay in contact with gaskets etc continuously as compared to upright and V6/8 configured engines where this (oil / water is able to partially drain away) If oil/water isn't changed regularly the contaminants "eat away" at gaskets etc over time that is why its important to change oil at 3000miles and flush cooling system (every 2 years - this is recommended in the owner manual.) As you've mentioned the cam cover gaskets are/can be notorious for leaking as well. Its also important to replace 2 cam / crank seals when replacing cam belt The head gasket issue for earlier EJ251 was for both for water / oil external leaks. and some internal where the even earlier EJ25D was notorious for internal leaks. Am assuming your engine EJ253 (SOHC) wasn't noted for headgasket issues like the previous two earlier engines I've just mentioned as they had resolved? the inferior headgasket problem. Am posting 2 links that discuss this fully http://allwheeldrive...lems-explained/ http://allwheeldrive...lained-part-ii/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 My older sister changes the oil at 3 months or under, she drives like grandma, less than 20 miles on any given day, many days she doesn't run the car. At $50 a pop, the oil change places are overkill unless the oil needs changing. Only change what needs to be changed; of course there are sales people always trying to promote religious rules about all the cars, making people fearful that if they don't do something like clockwork, dire consequences will result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I don't know about what the above mentioned artical, but I think that any car should have its coolant replaced at proper intervals. The newer antifreeze typically lasts up to 5 years and 100,000 miles. Main thing to do is change your oil depending on how you use your car. I burn through cheap oil within 2000 miles the way I drive so I typically use better quality oil so I can go 3000 miles before the oil turns black. Bottom line, when your changing your oil, check all of your fluids and change/flush them if they are dark or looking old. When topping off your antifreeze generally if its the same color as what is in your system allready than your typically OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp98 Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 The color of the oil has nothing to do with the fact if it needs to be changed. You should try driving a diesel and see how fast that oil goes black. The manufactures are going by averages on when you should change out your oil and nothing more. Oil will break down over time loose some viscosity, and additives that are in it. If you really want to know just when you should change your oil you need to have a oil analysis done to see what is going on with the oil. When I have had it done with my Outback it has come back that I can run the oil to 7,000 miles with no problems. But I found this out over time by starting off sending in a sample at 3,000 miles then 5,000 miles and again at 6,000 on different samples. The last time that I sent in a sample at 6,000 miles it came back that I could run it another 2,000 miles but I am keeping it at 6,000 mile changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I've always changed my oil when it starts to get dark and once it goes down a quart. You are correct, you can't always go by the color, my grizzly turns the oil black imediatly. On those type of applications I go by how much oil I loose, once it gets to the add mark I change it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 If you know the color of the bottle they used, you can find out which one it was on Valvoline's own website and whether it is compatible. Here's a great article on the subject: http://donsnotes.com/home_garden/auto/antifreeze.html Considering how little you say they used, I wouldn't worry about it. Emily 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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