Low idle with my '92 Loyale

[Craigar]

Well, now I feel kind stupid cause in the right light (for my eyes, can't see well into a darkened area - and takes about 20 minutes nowadays for me to adjust well to night, I'm 60) I could see some "white wash" looking "paint?" on the bottom of the plug wires going across the block, so got into good light at the local AM/PM gas station in the very early morning (3.30am) and I could see more if this "white wash" looking down under the spare towards the firewall on the tranny... pulled out the spare and found the whitewash more concentrated under where one of the rubber heater pipes connect to the metal pipe coming off the top of the motor area.. unscrewed the hose clamp & pulled it off and very close to the clamp on the bottom was a nice little TEAR! about 3/16 inch long - and then I could see this white wash all over the left/back side of the distributor cap, etc. ... and the plug wires were laying on the block, I cleaned it all up and snapped the wires back into their holders on the back side of the air snorkel and moved the heater pipe up 1/4 inch more onto the pipe stuck some permatex in the slightly spread open crack, let it dry for about 15 minutes while cleaning up this little mess then wrapped a turn & a half of electrical tape and tightened the hose clamp over it - just for the next day or so, tell I get a new hose cause it looks pretty special with the dogleg where it probably connects to the heater core,,,, well it ran REAL GOOD with solid power between 1000~2000 pm,, rode it for 20 minutes can't hear any bubbles no change in water level, etc..

 

Just like the other guy you helped out when you said "did you check all 7 hoses?" it really rattled my brain - 7 hoses, and of course they had changed the front big ones going to the rad. Now the reason I think I saw "whitewash" is cause day before yesterday - after a lot of research I did Prestones new " NON CLOGGING high tech triple head gasket treatment" which is a way different then any other formula to date.

 

http://prestone.com/enca/node/1469

Prestone Triple Seal Protection Head Gasket Stop Leak made with DuPont Kevlar resin stops cooling system leaks fast without blocking or corroding the cooling system. Simply add Head Gasket Stop Leak to any color of antifreeze/coolant and Prestone's proprietary Triple Seal Protection begins to seek out and seal leaks. Do-it-yourselfers can now affordably fix head gasket leaks and potentially avoid expensive engine repairs without visiting a mechanic. The latest evolution from the leader in cooling system products.

The engine ran the same as before, and I drove 30 miles, maybe with a little less loss of coolant - but was now able to relativly easily see the "whitewash" from where it had dried, I assume? (unless it had been there all along.)

 

this sealer looks pretty "suspended" as it swirls around in the coolant, heres a vid when I poured it in, then an hour later..

 

 

 

 

they say let it coexist in the cooling system for a week, but I may drain it out tomorrow or the day after

 

 

thank You

Edited August 4, 2016 by Craigar

[MR_Loyale]

Just a tip on trying to find leaking coolant hoses. They can seal themselves at idle as there is not much pressure in the system. However when revving the engine, it increases the pressure and causes a leak. SO when troubleshooting a running engine, have someone rev it to force any suspect leaking hoses to show themselves.

 

School of experience, class of '94.

[987687]

Yea, my GL was doing that when I parked it for rust. One of the little throttle body cooler lines. I'm sure when I get another one and drag that out for driveline parts I'll forget about it....

[Craigar]

thanks MR_Loyale  , should have thought of that higher rpm = more pressure in coolant system. It also seems to move the bubbles more I heard in the heater core. I just drained the Prestone after driving, let it coll off, did a clear water flush, drained and let cool off and filled with 50/50 anti freeze. I don't think I had a head gasket problem at all BUT it does still seems to lope a bit under heavy throttle at lower rpm, like under 2000 especially when cold, and feels a litlle underpowered in that range is that normal? My memory of a good running VW type 3 seemed to have more power in that range,,, I guess I shouldn't push it hard at those lower rpm anyways considering big jugs & short stroke.

 

I left my origainal owners manual at my friends shop, so wondering how much liquid/coolant it needs so far almost a gallon?

 

also still seems kind of like a low idle to me, but it's never crapped out - you can hear the idle in this video, does that sound right to you Loyale Gurus? Of course it gets a little lower and rougher in gear ( 3AT ) - and right now the alternator belt sounds a lot like crickett cause of me getting fluid on it

 

 

Thank You everybody

Edited August 12, 2016 by Craigar

[DaveT]

EA82 really don't make a lot of power below 3000rpm. These engines are made to spin fast, not lug.

[Craigar]

well with it's 3AT, on the freeway it does about 52 mph at 3000 rpm on flatland according to the speedo and tach,, right now it has half worn 175/70 .... and it sounds kind of "wound up high" to me but doesn't seem to mind? So since I carry very little load, just  me @ 175lbs and maybe 100lbs of other stuff,, I'm considering THESE tires - would do 55mph at 3000 - but of course i'd have less acceleration/torque to the road.

 $56 + shipping Milestar MS75 Tire P175/80R13

http://www.tiresall.com/Product_1392.html#

 

their 6.1% larger diameter than stock 175/70

 

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=175-70r13-175-80r13

[DaveT]

Yes, you will loose acceleration. Speed limits around here are 65. 4000rpm for that speed, 3000rpm for 50 / 55 sounds about right. I've put 1000s of miles on them at 4000rpm.

[Blake1992Loyale]

First off, don't pump the accelerator; it's fuel injected not carbureted. To start it, just hold the accelerator down a little bit, it will work much better than pumping it.

In a carbed car, pumping actuates the accelerator pump spraying extra fuel, in a fuel injected car it just frigs with the ECU and makes the thing harder to start. Furthermore full throttle while cranking is flood clear mode, ie. it gives no fuel to the engine.

 

Now to the problem. I had the same issue with my GL when it was below zero degrees, had to give it a little bit of throttle to fire up. Then I had to keep a bit of throttle for a minute until the idle settled out. The issue was a gummed up IACV not wanting to work when it was extremely cold. The IACV is on the front of the intake manifold facing the radiator and is held on with four Phillips screws that really suck to get out. Take it off and spray it out with carb cleaner or drop it in some degreaser solvent for a while. You should replace the gasket while you're in there, I just made a new one out of gasket paper. Let all the carb cleaner evaporate and reinstall the IACV.

 

How did you get the four phillips screw's out? This is all the room there is.

imgur.com/a/azown

Edited January 10, 2017 by Blake1992Loyale

[DaveT]

The link isn't working for me.  Sometimes those screws are so tight I had to use sharp vice grips to grab the head to make the first fraction of a turn to break them loose.  Then they unscrew easily.  Don't strip the heads with an old screwdriver.