1 ton Toyota pickup transplant?

[sierramogremote]

My flatbed Toyota is missing an engine. I was considering a used later model 40,000 mile Toyota V6 from Japan at a cost of $1000 plus $400 for wiring adapters for California smog.

 

Bill Hinchers thread on the W series transmission adapter gave me hope that I can use a boxer engine. I would move the wiring to the pickup cab to pass California smog.

 

The following is my wishful thinking.

 

I have a good boxer engine from my totaled 2000 Forester. The W series adapter will fit my flatbed 1989 Toyota (former Uhaul) truck in the pic.

 

When I look at the three foot wide boxer engine in my Forester and compare it to my 2 foot Toyota frame rails I can't see how to get the clearance needed to install it. What if I lift the cab a couple inches, build a transmission doghouse, move the engine/transmission mounts up and forward so the left rear cylinder will clear the IFS mounts & steering shaft, ... Maybe rotate the engine/trans a few degrees...

 

Seems wild. Is there a simpler way?

 

I Googled images in vain to see if anyone has a boxer engine in a Toyota pickup. Anyone care to share a list of car or truck models that have benefited from the Toyota W series adapters?

 

Thanks to all for a great forum.

[Numbchux]

As far as I know....this is the only time it's been "done" (I say that, as the project is not yet finished, but the engine/transmission have been mocked up several times.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134618-smiley/

 

In there, you'll see this picture. I believe this was already with some drivetrain lift:

 

And, he ended up cutting off the whole front of the frame and replacing it with tube.

 

 

I believe you have control arm bracketry and stuff on top of the frame in that exact spot. So yours would probably have to be ~6" higher than his.

 

As much as I love the idea of a Subaru engine in a Toyota, I don't think it's feasible without a solid front axle, and a lot of fab work.

[sierramogremote]

Thanks for the heads up Numbchux!

 

That confirms my fears but I am still hoping it's possible, hopefully even practical.

 

Eyeballing the situation, the main obstacle to moving the engine forward past the control arm bracket is the steering box. If the steering box and the last part of the steering column was gone the frame could be cut and dropped forward of the control arm brackets enough to clear the cylinders with the engine ending up close to original height.

 

I notice some people use orbital steering control valves and full hydraulic steering. Craigslist had a complete system (steering wheel, orbital valve, cylinder) from a Clarke forklift for $200 that might do the job. I have a forklift side shift cylinder in my boneyard to play with.

 

There is about 15" from the control arms to the crossbar forward of the radiator. It looks to me like the cylinders will fit in that space even if the frame is not dropped. I could make the crossbar removable and move the radiator(s) behind the engine or under the flat bed behind the cab since the Forester fans are electric.

 

I need to make some careful measurements and make a detailed Sketchup model. There are lots of pretty accurate Sketchup models of the outside of my Toyota. Anyone have fairly accurate measurements or a model of a Toyota engine bay and suspension that I can use?

[Numbchux]

It might be worth a try. But that seems really far forward to me. Most of my chevy 4.3 is behind the front of the control arms on my 4Runner. Here's the only picture I could find that gives any sense of perspective there.....

 

You can see the front of the timing cover in the upper right, and front of the control arm on the left side. You can also get an idea of height. There are 2" drivetrain lift motor mount spacers there, and incorrect motor mounts (the reason I took the picture) pushing the engine up another couple inches. With the correct mounts, my oil pan sits down behind the diff a bit, instead of completely above it. Even about 4" higher than stock height, I'm not sure subaru heads would clear the frame. AND, AFAIK the RWD truck frames arch up higher near the control arms than the IFS 4WD ones (the hardcore offroad guys prefer them for this, as it leaves more room for a solid front axle).