ferp420 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 So my ea82 is done the lower end just isent anymore it was a good test it went well now its time to get down to it Im gona have to put my stock motor back in till I can build a new one I'll see if there's anything I can do to the lower end maybe I can improve on my last one and this time I'll pay better attention to what I'm doing and build myself a real screamer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machineit Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Aw man sorry to hear that, glad you have another, by the way I have a extra set of bypassing the water out of the intake, if you interested let me know, not looking for money, just to help out ???? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 So my ea82 is done the lower end ... Lower end failures on EA82's are uncommon. What exactly Happened? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 ... set of bypassing the water out of the intake ... Do you have more information regarding this? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 I'll known more once I pull it apart but I've been fighting oil pressure and heat issues since I installed the motor its been on its way out for a while and I've been beating on it hard and the extra power Isent helping ether Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thanks for the offer machinesit I would love a set of those spacers but Im not ready yet I'll hit you up when I get my isht together my spacers are 1" thick I planed on testing out 1/2" spacers and I wanted to try 1 1/2" spacers I have no idea what a smaller spacer or a bigger one would do yet i need to do more testing and I want to shave the block a bit more so the hole in my spacers may need to be angled and have some funny stuff done to the bolt holes to get around the narrower block I won't know what's up though till I get another short block set up for testing hopefully life doesn't get in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 ... I want to shave the block a bit more ... Please excuse me for this question, but Shaving the Block might change the non-interference condition of the EA82, to an interference one, isn't it? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hi JesZeK, Factory specs. grinding limits on the heads are .012", on the block is .016". You can shave .028 off the block and not worry about clearance problems. I've measured valve to piston clearance and it's quite generous. Forget what it is exactly but it's well over .100". Really no worries about interference. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Hi JesZeK, Factory specs. grinding limits on the heads are .012", on the block is .016". You can shave .028 off the block and not worry about clearance problems. I've measured valve to piston clearance and it's quite generous. Forget what it is exactly but it's well over .100". Really no worries about interference. Thank you for your kind answer, also for the Useful information which I really appreciate. I really don't have any experience with shaving engine Blocks, only Heads... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 YW. SPFI and Carb block pistons sit flush with the deck of the block. Headgasket is a nominal .060 thick. So, that's .060 piston to head clearance stock. You would be fine lopping .030 off the block. Tightening the quench alone ups the power plus you have higher compression. Turbo is a bit different. Pistons sit like .017 above the deck so about .043 piston to head. Stock pistons you'd be ok with .025 to .030 piston to head. With a forged piston you'd want .040 piston to head. But we're talking shaving a carb/spfi block here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Here's what it sounds like now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Bad lifters or bad oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 I saw & heard your Video: and somehow it sounds to me like an Exhaust Leak! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 ...of course that the video's sound resolution and mixture of noises can fool my ears; but I kindly suggest you to obtain an stethoscope and look for the mere noise's source point; it also could be a stuck hydraulic lifter; in both cases is an easy fix. Other parts to consider could be a damaged radiator Fan, the one moved by the belts, it could be hitting its frame... Good Luck! ... Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 That defiantly sounds like a rod knock with how it gets louder at high rpms. Not unheard of for ea82's and ea81's to get them. The original owners of my 82 coupe ran the ea81 low on oil which caused the rod knock only has 163 thousand on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) I ran it today i Also think it sounds like a exhaust leak I need to crawl underneath to be sure but considering all I put this motor through and the events leading up to the car stalling out way heavy lugging over lugging just for the fun of it and all the sparkling specks in the oil I'm gonna say I lost a rod bearing and considering I built the motor with what I had laying around just to test out some modding ideas i had and getting 2 years of use out of it I would say it did good now I just have to drop the stock motor back in that runs fine and build me another ea82x to pop only this time I'll make sure to use good parts I might even buy a few parts like lifters and new bearings and I might also revisit the ultra thin copper head gaskets with a few extra tricks this time to keep a good seal maybe a multi layer copper gasket Edited March 19, 2016 by ferp420 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 I finally got the motor out and tore i down the #2 lost its rod bearing and was smacking the head it even left a nifty imprint on the head in carbon from the letters stamped in the piston lol everything else looks good I hope I can save the block the cylinders look great with no signs of ovaling I'm sure everything inside it is toast but I could probly rebuild it with new/used internals and be just fine I probably just rob a piston and rod and a crank from another motor and get a rering kit the loyale is back up and running with its original motor and just in time to smog it lol it runs great but compared to the ea82x torque monster its a dog I'll at the spacers and matching manifold to the stock motor after smog and see if I got the torque back or if I was getting power from the ported and polished heads or a combo of every thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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