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Hi I am very Green when it comes to Subaru's but I am keen on learning. I just picked up a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback for very cheap. Couldn't resist the sound of a 5 speed awd boxer wagon. Upon farther research I learned that the EJ25D motor has head gasket issues. Only having done a swap in a 45 year old Chev i'm pretty green when it comes to things like that. I've read many forums saying that the EJ22E is the way to go. There's one in a local junk yard out of a 1998 Subaru Impreza outback with 167000 kms on the clock. Being on a budget how much of the parts from my EJ25D would be Compatible with the EJ22E. Also what fixes should i do before installing the new engine. The car at the junk yard is a AT if that makes a difference.

 

p.s everything currently works on my 1997 legacy outback accept cruise (not a big deal)

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If the EJ22 is automatic it should have EGR and be a match 99% - the 1% as mentioned is that you will want the Y pipe with the EJ22 since it's single port exhaust.

 

Do you have a head gasket leak currently or are you preparing for the future? Depending if/when head gaskets have been done on your motor in the past, it could have a lot of miles on it before it needs anything. Not as bullet proof as a EJ22 but I've seen DOHC EJ25s go over 300,000 miles a number of times. If it's still good, learn what to look for on early signs of head gasket failure and drive it.

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Thanks for the quick replies. As far as i can tell head gasket seems fine. Although I'm preparing for the worst, because I found out from a co-worker that the car had been begged the piss out of for the last 3 years and not very well maintained either. Will I need to pick up the intake manifold as well as the exhaust? My ps pump has a leak between the pump and the tank. What is the best way to fix the ps pump? What should I look for when with the bad head gasket?

Edited by 1967Beaumont
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oh goodness i thought he said "his" had headgasket issues - yeah if it doesn't just motor along and forget about it until it starts overheating.  very well may never have issues. 

though they're often sold with existing issues so wouldn't surprise me if you had issues - then saw it's normal....but if not - run it. 

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watch for coolant consumption. Keep your levels topped off. Eventually it shows up as overheating and/or exhaust bubbles in your coolant overflow tank. After it's running and warmed up, just look in the tank and look for bubbles. If it bubbles up like a fish tank, it's head gaskets and you should grab the EJ22. If nothing, you're probably good to drive.

 

Most yards will include the intake manifold with the motor but if not, yes you need the EJ22 specific intake manifold. They are different between the two motors although everything bolted to it is about the same.

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If you know the EJ22 is a good deal and you've got the money, it wouldn't be a terrible idea to have it "just in case" These are super easy to swap. I'm about to do one this afternoon for friends of a friend. If all goes well I'll have it done, swapped and driving on the new motor by dinner time.

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2 things that alarm me are

 

1 how fast it the car reaches normal operating temperature let it warm up for five minutes before and within 5 minutes of normal driving it was at normal operation temperature. Keep in mind I am in Canada and the temperature is -1°C which for you Americans is 30°F.

 

2 I have topped up my coolant reservoir 4 days ago and it is low again.

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I did the exact same swap, same cars, same years, everything a while back. 18 years old with basic tools and a Haynes manual. Easy swap.

 

As you will find out if you haven't already, Subarus love to share their fluids. Oil with coolant, coolant with combustion chambers, and everything with the ground.

 

I'd recommend getting a junkyard power steering pump if you can find one without a leak, although it's very common. There's a small bushing in the bottom made of rubber that dries and pukes the fluid everywhere. I don't have experience rebuilding them to offer advice, unfortunately.

 

You mentioned it was a manual, I'd do the clutch while you're in there.

 

Also, these EJ engines have a small oil centrifuge cover/plate in the back that leaks, usually mistaken for a rear main. Old ones are plastic and all leak, so I'd go to your local dealer and pick one up. The new ones are steel. They're like $25. Get some grey structural RTV to seal it, and good to go.

 

Like everyone else said, timing belt, water pump, idlers and tensioner.

 

I like to re-seal the oil pump while I'm in there, but if it's not seeping don't worry about it.

 

Valve cover gaskets, and I'd recommend checking lash adjustment. Mine ticks like a son-of-a...

 

Seal the oil pan with grey RTV. They suck to do in the car and usually leak, so do it with the engine out.

 

If you're interested in the "boxer rumble," check out un-equal length headers. You can find them on eBay for around $200. You'll need single port for a 98. I got mine from Inferno Fabrications, they have a page on this website somewhere (my apologies for not providing a link.) Those instead of a Y-pipe and a Magnaflow will give you the greatest sounding naturally aspirated Subaru around.

 

Also, and most importantly/annoyingly, Imprezas have their charcoal canisters in the rear of the car. Legacies are up front, in the engine bay. You have to re-route the vacuum lines to the purge solenoid directly to the canister and rail, and T-off a line to go to the Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid. If/when you get to that point, I can offer some more help. You can drive with the lines like they come just fine, though your cruise control won't work and you'll get a CEL code for high idle/vacuum leak and improper purge flow.

 

Good luck! It's a good swap. I wish I could have found another EJ22E for my 5 speed, I ended up with a JDM EJ25D instead.

Edited by pginter96
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