jread Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I have a handful of wires coming out of the ECU that I need to either use or cut was hoping someone could tell me whether or not they are needed. I have a pinout diagram and a list of what the numbers are but some I'm unsure if I need them and where they go. Vent control solenoid valve - brown yellow stripe, silver band Malfunction indicator lamp - goes to check engine on dash? Neutral position - does the loyale have one? Engine speed output - tach? Vehicle speed sensor 2 - Dark green, black stripe, silver band Fuel tank pressure signal - yellow, blue stripe, silver band Fuel temperature sensor - red, black stripe, silver band Fuel level sensor - brown, white stripe, silver band Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve - light green, black stripe, silver band I also have three I'm not sure of Blue silver band Green, red stripe, double silver band Blue, white stripe, silver band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 When I did Vanagon Conversions at RetroRoo we liked using this to ghost out the CEL's. Part of the wires you are mentioning are covered by using this. https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/interface-board.html You won't be able to cheat the fuel temp or fuel level stuff very easily during a conversion. The tach signal is correct. I feed it right into the back of the instrument clusters tach wire. On the Early 80's its yellow but I am not sure on the later 80's/Loyale stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 I'd love to find a way without an extra purchase. Seems most people have done these conversions without an extra board so I'd rather not have to purchase extra stuff but will if I have to... Especially with the exchange right now. With shipping that will be over 100 easy. I'm also not that worried about codes more wanting the engine to function well. If the chip just tricks the engine into not showing those codes I'll just ignore those codes. I guess the real question should be are any of these necessary to the function of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Ive done a few conversions and always just left those wires unhooked,my cars seem to run just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 That's what I want to hear! Probably going to turn the key tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I really love the idea of that Interface Board making those CELS go away. Maybe ill use it on my 02 WRX Swap. I wanna get all the PDFS has anyone tried Subaru technical information for the PDFS I have used it on all my other cars. https://techinfo.subaru.com/account/login.html That could deff help you if you are missing any infortmation at all you buy a days access and then save anything you need in PDF format. jreadTake a look at that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 So I got it in but can't get the ECU to fire the starter. 12v goes into the ECU at the "switch" pin but 12v doesn't come out to the starter... Anyone know what's up? Going to start looking now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Also fuel pump fires when I crank the key to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 So I'm kind of confused and wondering if my ignition should be connected to the ECU in two places? Currently I just have the starter switch hooked up but should it not be hooked up to the on position as well? The fuel pump only turns on when I try to start but not to prime... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Made progress was not understanding the ignition. The starter attaches directly to start and ignition on to ignition on... Somehow that was blowing my mind. Car cranks and revs when I hit the pedal but dies as soon as I'm off the starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 I'm a fool didn't fully understand the ignition had the wrong wires plugged in fixed and car starts just need to sort out the tach and malfunction light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Congratulations on making her run! Those are the simple issues =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Somewhat... Shes leaking. Headgaskets and rear main I guess I screwed up. Bought new oem ones and did them hopefully its all good now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 For that ignition wire u had a few wires hooked up so when you would stop cranking, the key moudle would pull the ignition ecu from the ecu right? Causing the car to run only with the key turned to the start position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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